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I would love to cast and mold my own slugs but i'm a little hesitant about it. I plan on having kids in the future and i don't really want to mess my chances up at all. The health risks in casting slugs are high so i'll just stick to wax slugs.laugh.png

unless your refering to the health risks from 3rd degree burns, i don't think so.

 

your no more likely to get lead poisoning from reloading than you would from say,

reloading a muzzleloader.

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a lee lead melter and mold are only 20 and 30 dollars each, i buy federal bulk pack for 20 and empty all the shot and cast into lee drive key 1 oz slugs! 100 slugs for $20 and a little labor! they sho

Lyman 525 slug hitting hard is an understatment. In the pic, the slugs on the left, top 3 are out of a sand bag. The middle left is a unfired slug. The 2 at the bottom left, are off a steel plate.

Kineti-Dump® in it's infancy: 1-3/4"x10" black steel pipe (handle) 2-3/4" black caps 1-3/4"x3" nipple (shot end) 1-3/4"x3" brass nipple (shell end) the brass was closer to fitting the o.d. of the

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Work lead outdoors, wear gloves and a dust mask. No problems!

(Do NOT use the same barbeque for burgers and lead! )

 

This is exactly how I was thinking of doing this. Maybe also put a fan behind me to blow any ill wind away.

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Just met up with my only response from the Craig's List ad, snagged 80lbs of lead. One piece is 65lbs so I'll have to try some of the methods suggested to get into melter size pieces. That's 2,500 1oz slugs. Guess I'm good to go with scrap lead.

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Just met up with my only response from the Craig's List ad, snagged 80lbs of lead. One piece is 65lbs so I'll have to try some of the methods suggested to get into melter size pieces. That's 2,500 1oz slugs. Guess I'm good to go with scrap lead.

 

Thanks for the thread. Good stuff guys, I'm new to the site. I've been into pistol reloading for 15 years or so, but the shot scene is new to me (just converted my S12!). What did you end up paying for the craigslist Pb per pound? I figured I'd try it out here.

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I want to see some of this bulk ammo with slugs tucked in them and crimped back up, and know how they went through the gun. I think I live close enough to Groovy to swap shot for slugs if it works good.

Edited by rnemhrd
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I have no pics of mine, they came out well, crimped good and shot great.

Worked flawless in my S12.

You dont have to take my word.

I "open the crimp with plyres, dump and melt the shoot for making the Lee slug,

drop the slug into the hull and recrimp", I dont even change the powder load.

Disclamer "I do not recommend anyone using this load in any firearm".

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I paid $1 per pound which is more than you can get it for at a scrap yard or if you hookup with one of the many sources mentioned in this thread. It is less from what I've seen than you can get it on eBay. I haven't tried all the possible sources here which I think would require some legwork. I wanted to get started and not spend a lot of time beating the bushes. A deal you might find or negotiate might end up costing much less.

 

Damn Sneak, I just took a close look at your avatar...kinda disturbing.

 

rnemhrd, if you don't have any money invested in a melter or mold and live close to Groovy Mike, that's the way I'd go. Mike's offer surfaced after I'd already ordered this stuff so I'm going to see it through.

 

Red, I don't doubt a word you're saying. But I'd be interested in seeing how you do it because in the few times I've tried it it hasn't been easy to open the crimp and then close it without screwing up the end of the shell. One thing that might make a difference is the shells I've got, Winchester Universal have 8 "petals", another shell I have a Federal "High Power" 7 1/2 has only 6 and it's a lot easier to open up and close. What kind do you use most of the time?

 

I'm working on a way to remove the very top/center of the crimped shell altogether leaving the roll around the edge in tact. We'll see how it works out.

 

Whatever I find that works will be photographed and I'll post up here.

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Work lead outdoors, wear gloves and a dust mask. No problems!

(Do NOT use the same barbeque for burgers and lead! )

 

 

Does anyone else watch videos of people shooting bird shot into corn fields and hope there corn flakes didn't come from that field? Or is that just me? Same with shooting into water supplies.

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I paid $1 per pound which is more than you can get it for at a scrap yard or if you hookup with one of the many sources mentioned in this thread. It is less from what I've seen than you can get it on eBay. I haven't tried all the possible sources here which I think would require some legwork. I wanted to get started and not spend a lot of time beating the bushes. A deal you might find or negotiate might end up costing much less.

 

Damn Sneak, I just took a close look at your avatar...kinda disturbing.

 

rnemhrd, if you don't have any money invested in a melter or mold and live close to Groovy Mike, that's the way I'd go. Mike's offer surfaced after I'd already ordered this stuff so I'm going to see it through.

 

Red, I don't doubt a word you're saying. But I'd be interested in seeing how you do it because in the few times I've tried it it hasn't been easy to open the crimp and then close it without screwing up the end of the shell. One thing that might make a difference is the shells I've got, Winchester Universal have 8 "petals", another shell I have a Federal "High Power" 7 1/2 has only 6 and it's a lot easier to open up and close. What kind do you use most of the time?

 

I'm working on a way to remove the very top/center of the crimped shell altogether leaving the roll around the edge in tact. We'll see how it works out.

 

Whatever I find that works will be photographed and I'll post up here.

I seen a video of a guy useing a 11/16 hole saw and a drill to remove the folded portion. then he cleaned it up a little with a razor knife. looked like it worked well.
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Does anyone else watch videos of people shooting bird shot into corn fields and hope there corn flakes didn't come from that field? Or is that just me? Same with shooting into water supplies.

 

Yet another benefit of having Count Chocula for breakfast, it's safer.

 

Deadeye, actually that's exactly what I'm thinking of doing although the hole saw I have on the way is 5/8" which is 1/16" smaller and, a size that is readily available. The one I'm getting is a fine tooth, 10TPI so hopefully it won't tear things up too badly. But if it does I'm going to remove the teeth and sharpen the edge. I actually found a "knife edge" hole saw but because they're made out of spring steel they couldn't be made this small. Would you have a link to the vid?

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Does anyone else watch videos of people shooting bird shot into corn fields and hope there corn flakes didn't come from that field? Or is that just me? Same with shooting into water supplies.

 

Yet another benefit of having Count Chocula for breakfast, it's safer.

 

Deadeye, actually that's exactly what I'm thinking of doing although the hole saw I have on the way is 5/8" which is 1/16" smaller and, a size that is readily available. The one I'm getting is a fine tooth, 10TPI so hopefully it won't tear things up too badly. But if it does I'm going to remove the teeth and sharpen the edge. I actually found a "knife edge" hole saw but because they're made out of spring steel they couldn't be made this small. Would you have a link to the vid?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0xuMattR7o
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Great, thanks for the vid. I'm not down with the way this guy does everything but at least it shows this can be done. One interesting thing, he waited like 20 seconds before he dropped the slug out of the mold. If you look at the vid I posted earlier in this thread, the kid casting the same slug dropped them as soon as he knocked off the excess and opened the mold, really fast. I wonder what the differences are. And, from what I've seen there's no need to drop the cast slugs into water.

 

This guy's hole saw seemed to be rather coarse, like I said I have a 10 tooth per inch one coming. Also I'm going to get a less expensive bench top drill press and a shell vise. It may seem needless to spend the money but IMO a setup like this will allow greater numbers in a shorter period of time. And, the savings will pay for the extra equipment very quickly. I can also use a small drill press for other stuff.

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Does anyone else watch videos of people shooting bird shot into corn fields and hope there corn flakes didn't come from that field? Or is that just me? Same with shooting into water supplies.

 

Yet another benefit of having Count Chocula for breakfast, it's safer.

 

Deadeye, actually that's exactly what I'm thinking of doing although the hole saw I have on the way is 5/8" which is 1/16" smaller and, a size that is readily available. The one I'm getting is a fine tooth, 10TPI so hopefully it won't tear things up too badly. But if it does I'm going to remove the teeth and sharpen the edge. I actually found a "knife edge" hole saw but because they're made out of spring steel they couldn't be made this small. Would you have a link to the vid?

 

Count chocula is made of cardboard so I think your point is valid.

Edited by WingedOne
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I rec’d my new Lee one ounce 12 gauge slug mold in Friday’s mail. Saturday I cast a couple dozen slugs and was delighted with the performance of the mold. I was eager to try the slugs so took the expedient route of dumping the one ounce load of #8 shot from factory loaded Remington "Game Load" shells. Without changing the load I inserted my shiny new slugs in the shot cups and re-crimped the shells. They crimped beautifully and were indistinguishable from the original factory loaded shells. When I had three of them loaded I took them out with my Saiga 12 and a plain cardboard box. I set the box down and stepped off 20 paces. Holding roughly for the center of the unmarked box and firing offhand with iron sites from a standing position I held for center of teh blank sheet of carboard and pumped three quick shots into the box. I was delighted to find that I could cover all three holes with the palm of my hand. Given those firing conditions, no bench, no scope, and no target to aim at beyond a white box face - I think those results are something to be pleased with.

 

I have no idea why the guy in the video waits before dumping his slug from the mold. There is no need to. And I REALLY have no idea why he cuts the hull. That makes no sense to me. It is far easier IMHO to reclose the same crimp that has already been folded after you open it and dump the shot.

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I have no idea why the guy in the video waits before dumping his slug from the mold. There is no need to. And I REALLY have no idea why he cuts the hull. That makes no sense to me. It is far easier IMHO to reclose the same crimp that has already been folded after you open it and dump the shot.

 

Congrats on the successful test. The guy actually counts out the time if I remember correctly and, he shows some deformed castings which makes me think that for whatever reason he really does need to wait that long. I can't imagine why. With so many people uncrimping and then recrimping with no problem I'm thinking there must be a difference in how easy this is with certain brands of shell.

 

You say you are using Remington Game Loads, I'd be interested to see the top of one of those shells. As I said in another post, I have noticed that there is a difference between the Winchester Universal and the Federal High Power shells I have here. The Federal has two less "points" on the star crimp. I don't usually have a problem with manual dexterity type stuff and I have had a problem uncrimping and recrimping the Winchesters. Maybe the guy in the vid has problems with it too.

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I just tried one of the Federal Hi-Power shells with only 6 points on the crimp "star". It opened easier and closed ok and fit in the chamber just fine. It appears the guy in the vid is also using Federal shells and they look like the one I have, a dark red color. But I still can't explain why he feels the need to cut the centers out of the shells unless he just worked it out that way and does everything like that. I know why I am looking into it with Winchester Universal though....

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He might have a mold that needs to cool and contract before the slugs will reliably drop out. I did not have that problem, but it can happen especially if the inside of the mold is rough.

 

As a side note, If you find that the crimp tends to reopen on its own after you have reassembled them - you can stop that with a couple drops of candle wax....

 

If I can find a camera and remember to do so, I'll take some pics.

Edited by Groovy Mike
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This is exactly how I was thinking of doing this. Maybe also put a fan behind me to blow any ill wind away.

 

Try putting the fan off to the side a bit. If the fan is at your back, it will create a low pressure zone right in front of you, sucking in and funneling the "ill wind" into your face. The same concept is demonstrated when a vehicle drives down the street, and leaves and dust are sucked in directly behind it. If the fan is off to your left, then the low pressure zone will be beside your right side and right arm if reaching out with it. If you are right handed, it will maximize ventilation with a simple fan.

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Thanks Nephilim, very good point. I happened to be at Home Depot and then Lowes today and I noticed they have masks specifically for lead removal, I'm guessing if you are stripping lead paint etc. I'm wanting to get all my ducks in a row and make a day of this as I don't see it as something you'd want to do for an hour here, two hours there etc. I did buy a cold chisel at Lowes so I can go all caveman on that 65lb chunk of lead I have.

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Groovy, you using a reloding machine to recrimp or just pushing the crimp back in? I doe'nt have reloding tools is why I'm asking. I think the big end of a 3/8 socket extension or the right size socket may push it in well enough. As long as the shell is'nt deformed and smooth it should feed is my guess. Chasing old laundry bottles is more fun at 50yrds with slugs than shot at 25yds in my book. That sparked my interest in this. It was a game we played at the hunting camp back in the day to see who could really shoot. It's sad how many guys hunt and can't hit shit. can banch rest and hit paper, but stand them up and give them an object and it's over. I wonder if they will still recycle the jugs when shot to hell? That was before recycling.

Edited by rnemhrd
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i have used brake cleaner, which is close to carb cleaner, for years on just about every gun i own. haven't seen any negative effects yet. you just have to be careful with it on the exterior finishes on a lot of guns. if it is some sort of paint it will take it right off. on bolts and carriers i think your fine. i will say that i have just about completely stopped using it due to cost and switched to water, soap and compressed air to dry afterwards. it is just a lot cheaper and works fine for me.

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I have a question and I don't want to start a thread for it. I was cleaning that dirty Russian Bitch of mine tonight and I wondered, is there anything wrong with using carb cleaner on certain parts like the bolt?

 

I use carb cleaner on my guns all the time, works great! Just don't get it on any painted parts, its kinda hard on that stuff.

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I have a question and I don't want to start a thread for it. I was cleaning that dirty Russian Bitch of mine tonight and I wondered, is there anything wrong with using carb cleaner on certain parts like the bolt?

 

I use carb cleaner on my guns all the time, works great! Just don't get it on any painted parts, its kinda hard on that stuff.

got some carb cleaner in my eye the other day. that shit burns bad. wear glasses
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The last time I bought lead from the scrap yard it was $0.85 a pound. Only one place would sell it to me and the dock worker had a look of shock on his face. He told me that was lead and therefore dangerous. He then proceeded to recheck with the foreman that he could sell it to me.

 

Lead can be dangerous? You know I just politely thanked him and held back my purposes.

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The last time I bought lead from the scrap yard it was $0.85 a pound. Only one place would sell it to me and the dock worker had a look of shock on his face. He told me that was lead and therefore dangerous. He then proceeded to recheck with the foreman that he could sell it to me.

 

Lead can be dangerous? You know I just politely thanked him and held back my purposes.

I'd have bought the hell out of it. That's about the same price a scrap yard about 20 miles from here quoted me but I think I'd have had to sort it, dig it up whatever. I might check that out yet.

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