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Quick questions about drilling and pinning 74 FSB also Duracoat ?'


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Hi all, I've been lurking awhile and decided to finally sign up and start posting. I've read tons upon tons of info so far about this topic, I just wanted some fresher input. OK. My question is from which direction should you drill to pin the FSB? right to left, left to right or from each side and meet up in the center? righ being the control side, left being the scope rail side.

 

My duracoat question is related to the color which would most closly match the factory color. I've read on another forum the Duracoat's HK Black matches the most closely of all there colors. I originally painted mine with Rustoleum high temp engine paint did the heat treat for it and everything but once oil gets on it, it has a tendency to rub off on your hands and has a gummy feeling to it. Bottom line, it sucks. So, does HK Black match the semigloss black from Izhmash?

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first off, welcome to the forum. you will find much priceless info here. as far at pinning the FSB, id go with right to left. only reason being is that the FSB will have the starter holes already, and will be on that side of the FSB.

 

and as for duracoat, hell i just did one with it, and it is nice shit. not sure on the color your wanting. if it were me and i was having to refinish the gun, i would prolly add some color to it, but it is :YOUR gun. i would suggest putting a clear coat over it, but let it flash off. if not you will get a "wet" application and it will come out more glossy.

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Truth is it doesn't really matter when pinning virgin components. It matters when pressing the pins out, as there is a stored shock load in a specific direction that you need to reverse to break the pin free and out.

 

Lightly chamfer the tips of the pins and use anti-seize when installing. They will go in no trouble this way.

 

As for paint, whatever you do you need to strip your existing coat.

 

Many people recomment Duplicolor DE1634 ceramic engine enamel, with a baking treatment of several hours at 200-250F. It looks a great deal like the factory coating, and is very durable. Plus it's about $5 per can, and you only need one, maybe two.

 

However don't expect it to stand up to heavy cleaners like gun scrubber/brake cleaner. I tested a dustcover recently with brake cleaner, and it broke the cure of the paint - however it did not run off. It does fine with most gun solvents - I primarily use CLP and Hoppe's.

 

Duracoat is probably better but at a significant price difference.

Edited by mancat
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Thanks for the info, fellas. Just got back from the range and the FSB is on straight. I decided to test out my 74 brake on the last couple rounds and it did make the fsb move something like 1/32". gotta tap it bcak down. as far as my color scheme i'm going with a semigloss black and Magpul OD green for the dust cover, shaved down CSS tri rail and possibly the ACE stock I have on it. I'll post pics as soon as I get done.

 

I know I can rattle can it for cheap. I would rather have a finish that will hold up to gun cleaners. The Rustoleum doesn't even hold up to Remoil.

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Duplicolor and Rustoleum both have the same disandvantage. They are successtible to cleaning agents. That being said.. I've used both and perfer Rustoleum. The Textured Black has a fantastic look holds up equally as well as the over rated duplicolor (which is junk IMHO). With the Textured black, just remember to preheat parts to 150, spray, then bake at 300 for a good 45min to 1 hr. Then do NOT use/install for a good day or so. BOTH will break down using heavy solvents or such, so there is no gain there. But the beauty of Rustoleum is that you can touch up as needed. If you are looking for REAL finish, that stands up against cleaners, you are looking for Duracote or Alumahide II, both of which require blasting the original finish and refinishing (lots of effort).

Edited by Brian M1
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I have used Alumahyde ll many times and have never had to blast prior to application. Just make sure you sand or scotch brite to give thepaint something to get a bite on. Then carefully degrease and apply in accordance with the video, heating the paint and parts (a hair dryer works for the parts). The drawback for me is waiting the 3 to 4 weeks for a full cure. Once it is cured, it is very durable and resistant.

 

I am now using the Duplicolor DE1634 which is easy to apply, cures quickly and is sufficiently durable for me. Seems like it out performs the factory finish by a mile.

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  • 2 weeks later...

If you go with the Duracoat, make sure you let the finish harden for a couple of weeks. I didnt wait and I now have scratches on my gun. I can touch it up, not that big a deal, but it is a little frustrating. I have finished my 5.45 and my .308 and have had great luck with the finish.

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