Limeybastard 4 Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 (edited) Sorry in advance for the rant. But this paint looks nothing like the stock semi gloss finish on our Saigas. I painted the receiver and its charcoal black. No sheen whatsoever, almost grey. I painted my rifle this evening and it looks like shite. So for all those that say this paint almost matches the original finish you must have eye sight like Ray Charles MOFos / cunts. Edited September 10, 2012 by Limeybastard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chevyman097 2,579 Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 So repaint it, its just paint. I used just flat black high temp paint. Mine matches fine enough. Calling the people that tried to help you cunts and mofos isnt going to get you far. 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thebuns1 4,323 Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 why you hatin on ray charles? stevie wonder would have been a better choice. most people suggest duplicolor. appears to be a closer match. but like chevy said. repaint it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
red308 54 Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 I used Rustoleum engine paint on my saiga and it looks great matches almost perfect sorry you had a bad experience. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mogunner 240 Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 Shake it up first... 4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vulcan16 971 Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 (edited) Duplicolor low gloss black 1634...........and it always matches because I paint the whole fricking weapon. Edited September 10, 2012 by Jetmech 5 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thebuns1 4,323 Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 ...........and it always matches because I paint the whole fricking weapon. thats usually a good idea. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jpnrm96 70 Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 Sounds like you bought the Ford Engine Grey and not the DE1634 low sheen black. I've never had a problem with spot painting with the 1634. Like Chevyman said "just repaint it". Make sure you get the surface clean and free from contaminants. Better yet, go to Harbor Freight and buy one of their media blaster units and strip it with aluminum oxide media. You can even paint it then without primer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lone Eagle 839 Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 I used the Duplicolor DE1634 on my muzzle brake. Looked good when done, but it blew off in the openings in the front. The rest held up like a champ, so I left it with that "battle worn" look. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChileRelleno 7,071 Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 (edited) Another Duplicolor fan here. /me thinks that Limeybastard needs to check himself for panties and a pussy, cause he whining like a bitch. Edited September 10, 2012 by ChileRelleno 8 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dayofruin 425 Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 I like the duplicolor 1634. Matches fine ( I paint everything) and holds up real well after curing. Dries fast too. Can't Understand Normal Thinking... Lol! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chevyman097 2,579 Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 Another Duplicolor fan here. /me thinks that Limeybastard needs to check himself for panties and a pussy, cause he whining like a bitch. I think chille won this one. After OP finds his pussy inside those panties he(?)/she needs to go get the water hose and wash the sand out of that vagina. Then get back to us. 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brian M1 50 Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 I've used Rustoleum Textured Black. I LOVE that finish. IMHO, the best looking finish for an AK. Textured black is NOT an exact match for Saiga finish, but simply bake your Saiga at 150, spray on a slight coat, then bake it on at 300 for about 45 min and do NOT do anything with it for a day. Reassemble and you're good to go. It looks fantastic and has a cool semi gloss finish. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thebuns1 4,323 Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Limeybastard 4 Posted September 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 Hey guys. Was not calling anyone here names, Just venting sorry I I caused offense. This forum has been most helpful to me. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sumsky 115 Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 Duplicolor low gloss black 1634...........and it always matches because I paint the whole fricking weapon. You used the wrong Paint. Like Jetmech says.( DUPLICOLOR 1634) Hi Temp Engine Paint. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chevyman097 2,579 Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 Thats great Captain hero! Vent away Limey, but you know we will give you hell. GL with the paint lol 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Limeybastard 4 Posted September 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 Shall I just strip it down and restart ? I think this will be the best route to take. Anyone care to recommend a good paint stripper for this purpose? Originally I just slighty sanded it down to give the paint a key. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spacehog 2,218 Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 If the current paint is bonding well, isnt too thick, and you just don't like color, consider it a primer and just top coat it with DE1634. If it has not been on the gun that long, it probably hasn't cross linked yet anyway and can likely be removed with acetone, scotch brite pad, and brass brush. If it were me though, I would media blast it with fine aluminum oxide or glass beads, and start from fresh metal. Just make sure you stay away from the rails, bore, and inside of the barrel. The finish on freshly blasted metal is simply superior in terms of aesthetics, paint adhesion, and corrosion resistance. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thebuns1 4,323 Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 you could try taking some nail polish remover, or some reducer. i think youll be able to get it off fairly easy. if all else fails, just use old fashioned sand paper the best you can. just keep in mind the better the prep job is, the better the end result. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lidocaine Looney 26 Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 Steel wool the shi* out of it and then hit it with some degreaser/m600 and wipe it down with a clean cloth and you're ready to respray. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vulcan16 971 Posted September 11, 2012 Report Share Posted September 11, 2012 Steel wool the shi* out of it and then hit it with some degreaser/m600 and wipe it down with a clean cloth and you're ready to respray. Let me add......warm the parts to be painted with either a heat gun or hair dryer both before and after painting. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Skiluvr03 24 Posted September 11, 2012 Report Share Posted September 11, 2012 Duplicolor low gloss black 1634...........and it always matches because I paint the whole fricking weapon. You used the wrong Paint. Like Jetmech says.( DUPLICOLOR 1634) Hi Temp Engine Paint. This was what I was going to say, I couldn't tell the difference between this paint and the factory paint. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
canoecanoe 63 Posted September 11, 2012 Report Share Posted September 11, 2012 Duplicolor DE1634 available at Advance Auto Parts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Limeybastard 4 Posted September 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2012 That's where I'm going tonight thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Limeybastard 4 Posted September 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 (edited) Just got back from the garage, stripped the receiver and used acetone to remove the Rustoleoum paint. It came of very easy. Cleaned and sprayed. Will put it back together weekend. Thanks for all your help. Appreciate it. ;-) Got the paint from advanced auto parts. Looks nice, being overly anal noticed a couple of dust nibs however it don't matter. Edited September 12, 2012 by Limeybastard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mogunner 240 Posted September 13, 2012 Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 Here I sit with a shop, bead blaster and I powdercoat on a weekly basis, so why does my Saiga have a spray painted receiver... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rnemhrd 165 Posted September 13, 2012 Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 (edited) When I converted my saigas I just grabbed the flat black I had on a shelf and used it. My saigas look better on the inside than the outside. Glad you got it looking good. Now go burn the paint off the barrel. Edited September 13, 2012 by rnemhrd Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spacehog 2,218 Posted September 14, 2012 Report Share Posted September 14, 2012 Here I sit with a shop, bead blaster and I powdercoat on a weekly basis, so why does my Saiga have a spray painted receiver... Oh Mogunner how I envy you. Here I sit with Milspec manganese phosphate and the ability to apply it and no bead blaster to get the initial finish on the metal prior to pretreatment! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sumsky 115 Posted September 15, 2012 Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 If you are going to blast the surface use Aluminum oxide, not beads. You want a rough surface for what ever you are applying to stick to. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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