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That rustoleum 500 f engine enamel.


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If you are going to blast the surface use Aluminum oxide, not beads. You want a rough surface for what ever you are applying to stick to.

 

I'll second this. Beads tend to polish the surface enough to potentially cause trouble with bonding the paint to the metal.

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If you are going to blast the surface use Aluminum oxide, not beads. You want a rough surface for what ever you are applying to stick to.

 

I'll second this. Beads tend to polish the surface enough to potentially cause trouble with bonding the paint to the metal.

 

Agreed, Sumsky and Captain both make valid points. If you are going to paint directly over the blasted metal use Aluminum Oxide to produce a rougher texture. However, if you are going to conversion coat (manganese or zinc phosphate) prior to paint, the conversion coating's crystalline structure provides the necessary tooth for adhesion. By bead blasting under a conversion coating, you can produce a smoother finish with equally superior adhesion.

 

Personally for me, if I am going to go through the effort of tearing the gun down and blasting it, I am going to spend another hour to zinc phosphate (under paint) or manganese phosphate (oil only) It's certainly not necessary, just a personal preference.

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I used the Rustoleum Engine Enamel up to 2000F. It's flat black, and not pretty, but it's better than what it was before. But I may go for gold now XD

 

Actually... satin gold and the black laminate furniture sounds... attractive.

 

I just sprayed my mil surp drum with this because it had a couple of marks on it and I wanted to see what that paint would look like. Doesn't look like the rifle finish, but its fine for a drum.

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