Lidocaine Looney 26 Posted September 15, 2012 Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 Any pics with the rustoleum sprayed down? Just curious. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thebuns1 4,323 Posted September 15, 2012 Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 If you are going to blast the surface use Aluminum oxide, not beads. You want a rough surface for what ever you are applying to stick to. I'll second this. Beads tend to polish the surface enough to potentially cause trouble with bonding the paint to the metal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Slopes 2 Posted September 16, 2012 Report Share Posted September 16, 2012 Shake it up first... This. Also, just a general tip- it is probably not a good idea to call people who could potentially help you with your issue "mofos" and "cunts." Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Limeybastard 4 Posted September 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2012 (edited) Shake it up first... This. Also, just a general tip- it is probably not a good idea to call people who could potentially help you with your issue "mofos" and "cunts." Totally agree and apologize for making them comments. Edited September 17, 2012 by Limeybastard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spacehog 2,218 Posted September 18, 2012 Report Share Posted September 18, 2012 If you are going to blast the surface use Aluminum oxide, not beads. You want a rough surface for what ever you are applying to stick to. I'll second this. Beads tend to polish the surface enough to potentially cause trouble with bonding the paint to the metal. Agreed, Sumsky and Captain both make valid points. If you are going to paint directly over the blasted metal use Aluminum Oxide to produce a rougher texture. However, if you are going to conversion coat (manganese or zinc phosphate) prior to paint, the conversion coating's crystalline structure provides the necessary tooth for adhesion. By bead blasting under a conversion coating, you can produce a smoother finish with equally superior adhesion. Personally for me, if I am going to go through the effort of tearing the gun down and blasting it, I am going to spend another hour to zinc phosphate (under paint) or manganese phosphate (oil only) It's certainly not necessary, just a personal preference. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
VaiFanatic90 360 Posted September 21, 2012 Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 I used the Rustoleum Engine Enamel up to 2000F. It's flat black, and not pretty, but it's better than what it was before. But I may go for gold now XD Actually... satin gold and the black laminate furniture sounds... attractive. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lidocaine Looney 26 Posted September 21, 2012 Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 I used the Rustoleum Engine Enamel up to 2000F. It's flat black, and not pretty, but it's better than what it was before. But I may go for gold now XD Actually... satin gold and the black laminate furniture sounds... attractive. I just sprayed my mil surp drum with this because it had a couple of marks on it and I wanted to see what that paint would look like. Doesn't look like the rifle finish, but its fine for a drum. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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