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I want Better trigger w/o converting


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Dinzag sells some kits.

 

You can make it nicer by polishing engagement surfaces with a very fine diamond sharpener or ceramic whetstone. Only do so if are confident that you can preserve the factory angles and just make things smoother. Don't round edges.

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Removing the trigger group and smoothing the surfaces will give you a decent improvement. Get some moly grease and apply a little to the contact surfaces.

 

Don't install a lighter hammer spring, the .308 has a spring loaded firing pin and the lighter hammer spring won't be able to overcome it reliably.

 

I'd suggest moving your finger down lower on the trigger, it will make the pull feel more normal.

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The trigger cleans up nicely.

 

 

Edit to add: When stoning trigger, less is more, more is downright scary, and too much is FUBAR.

 

Yeah, trigger work is no joke. Be careful with doing too much, if you mess it up and it goes "bang-bang" instead of "bang" you could face some serious shit

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if you want a better trigger with out converting, the best thing i can tell you is buy a tapco G2 modified or modified it, then set it on the night stand and look at your better trigger...and wonder what it would feel like if you converted.

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Do the S308s still come with the funky "pull up instead of back" trigger that none of the other Saigas do? How hard could it be to install the factory bastardized non-S308 trigger into the S308? It would require a couple of holes to be drilled through the receiver, what else?

 

I may dig out my old trigger groups to look at em' tomorrow...if I still got em'.

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hey tac47 do me a favor and hold your tongue and when u come into a topic make sure to the read the OPs post first, thanks. i dont need any more 'herpa derp convert" useless posts. Thank you everyone else who read what i wrote and understood the guidelines i greaty appreciate that, your stuff has been very helpful ill post questions in a couple days cause there seems to be alot of you guys have good info. Keep em coming

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hey tac47 do me a favor and hold your tongue and when u come into a topic make sure to the read the OPs post first, thanks. i dont need any more 'herpa derp convert" useless posts. Thank you everyone else who read what i wrote and understood the guidelines i greaty appreciate that, your stuff has been very helpful ill post questions in a couple days cause there seems to be alot of you guys have good info. Keep em coming

convertconvertconvertconvertonvertconvertconvertconvertconvertconvertconvertconvertconvetconvertconvert

 

Yea I read the your first post.

Lighten up Francis

Edited by Jetmech
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I want a pile of naked penthouse pets slathered in bacon and maple syrup, but thats probably not gonna happen. You can remove and polish all contact surfaces, but all you'd be doing is polishing a turd. I live in CA also and having a fixed mag sucks, but not as bad as the factory trigger... do yourself a favor and just convert it. If you want better accuracy and an all around better feeling rifle, converting it would make you happy. And based on your dick attitude, you would be doing us all a favor by doing so.

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Pifft. I shot mine for a year before converting it, and I only converted because:

1. I live in Florida with none of those silly laws

2. I had to get parts count fixed as I was going to use 20 round mags (see above).

If you live in a ban state, play around with cleaning up the factory trigger before having to attach one of those annoying mag locks.

 

Or look into an alternative stock that would meet the standards for a featureless build (look it up on Cal guns).

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I want Better trigger w/o converting because i live in the PRK and that would defeat my goal of having a detachable magazine fed semiauto .308. If you know something useful please share if you dont have any ideas that contribute to my goal hold your tongue.

 

If you have basic mechanical/machining abilities, PM me and I will tell you how to replace the FCG and get down to a 1.5# trigger pull with a clean break. It is not hard to do, but you have to be able to remove a great deal of materiel from the new trigger.

 

Regards,

 

Jack

 

PS: Also, I apologize for some of the people on this forum who feel they have to interject their bull shit just to be heard. They are an embarrassment to the forum.

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hey tac47 do me a favor and hold your tongue and when u come into a topic make sure to the read the OPs post first, thanks. i dont need any more 'herpa derp convert" useless posts. Thank you everyone else who read what i wrote and understood the guidelines i greaty appreciate that, your stuff has been very helpful ill post questions in a couple days cause there seems to be alot of you guys have good info. Keep em coming

 

It was a Joke, buddy I did read your post.. Thanks

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If you are feeling your trigger is rough, then polishing will help. If you are feeling that your trigger pull is too heavy, polishing may help. If you are feeling yours has no distinct break point, then polishing won't help.

 

What type of trigger do you really want? What role do you see this rifle having for you?

 

I believe everyone deserves the freedom to do what they want with their triggers, as long as it isn't a safety hazard to the people around them. I personally wouldn't want to carry a rifle with one in the pipe as I crawl through the brush if it had a trigger under 3lbs. I'd actually feel safer with a trigger between 3.5 and 5lbs, as long as it was smooth.

 

On the other hand, as a benchrest gun, only used at the range for long range accuracy, I'd love a reliable 1lb trigger.

 

I say this as my .308 Saiga, in unconverted form, has a surprisingly smooth trigger that fires at around 3.5-4lbs. Yes, the trigger angle is odd. But it is smooth and what I consider a good trigger for a carry rifle.

 

I'm curious what your trigger weight comes in at? Does it feel rough to you?

 

I have a Lyman digital trigger pull guage, so this weight on mine is fairly accurate [tested with snap caps in the action].

 

I am also interested to hear how the trigger can be improved, but I'm currently content with mine in its' sporter form.

 

p.s.: I'm also in PRK, so I understand your desire to have a detachable magazine semi-auto rifle. That's why I bought this Saiga .308 and the Mini-14.

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If you are feeling your trigger is rough, then polishing will help. If you are feeling that your trigger pull is too heavy, polishing may help. If you are feeling yours has no distinct break point, then polishing won't help.

 

What type of trigger do you really want? What role do you see this rifle having for you?

 

I believe everyone deserves the freedom to do what they want with their triggers, as long as it isn't a safety hazard to the people around them. I personally wouldn't want to carry a rifle with one in the pipe as I crawl through the brush if it had a trigger under 3lbs. I'd actually feel safer with a trigger between 3.5 and 5lbs, as long as it was smooth.

 

On the other hand, as a benchrest gun, only used at the range for long range accuracy, I'd love a reliable 1lb trigger.

 

I say this as my .308 Saiga, in unconverted form, has a surprisingly smooth trigger that fires at around 3.5-4lbs. Yes, the trigger angle is odd. But it is smooth and what I consider a good trigger for a carry rifle.

 

I'm curious what your trigger weight comes in at? Does it feel rough to you?

 

I have a Lyman digital trigger pull guage, so this weight on mine is fairly accurate [tested with snap caps in the action].

 

I am also interested to hear how the trigger can be improved, but I'm currently content with mine in its' sporter form.

 

p.s.: I'm also in PRK, so I understand your desire to have a detachable magazine semi-auto rifle. That's why I bought this Saiga .308 and the Mini-14.

 

I haven't even purchased the rifle yet thats tomorrow but while reading up on it that was the most frequent complaint about the rifl was the trigger.

I want DMR style rifle its not a sniper but it can reach out and touch what i want when i need to. As for trigger pull im not looking for a hair trigger I dont have many guns so i couldnt say where id like the weight at so pretty much whatever is conducive to the role.

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I haven't even purchased the rifle yet thats tomorrow but while reading up on it that was the most frequent complaint about the rifl was the trigger.

I want DMR style rifle its not a sniper but it can reach out and touch what i want when i need to. As for trigger pull im not looking for a hair trigger I dont have many guns so i couldnt say where id like the weight at so pretty much whatever is conducive to the role.

 

I am so new to many of these weapons I had to look up what a DMR style rifle is. I honestly can't see my Saiga .308-2 filling that role well, with its' 16" barrel. I am confident I could probably hit a deer or man-sized target in a pretty fatal area at 300 yards, but not at distances longer.

 

IF you are getting a Saiga .308 and you want that DMR type [1/2 step below sniper gun as I understand it?], you better get the longer barrel version.

 

Seriously, from what I've read, the Saiga .308 is better in the role of a main battle rifle than as a sniping rifle. That is what Dragunovs [spelling?] are for. Heck, I've heard VEPR actions are more accurate than the Saiga, but I don't know from experience [and the poster could have been a poser too].

 

These are fun guns, and they will save your life when the zombies are within 300 yards. But, don't expect an unaltered Saiga .308 with a 16" barrel to 'reach out and touch' what you want at 500 yards [DMR distances] where you want to touch it. There are more accurate platforms out there, but most wont last as long without cleaning/proper maintenance.

 

For a fun rifle, for a hunting rifle [300 yards max with stock sights and 16" barrel for the sake of the animal], for a SHTF rifle, the Saiga .308 is a great value. For a benchrest gun or a step between a main battle rifle and a sniper rifle, the Saiga doesn't seem to fit the bill. It is a MBR, not a DMR, and the action makes it more difficult to attain DMR-type proficiency at distance.

 

Heck, I'd be surprised if a DMR rifle averaged more than 2" groups at 100 yards. My Saiga was sighted in at the factory and produced 84mm 4-round groups. That translates to about 3 1/3" group. That is almost twice what a marksmans gun should be capable of, in my opinion.

 

I hope you enjoy whatever you purchase, and good luck!

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My Saiga was sighted in at the factory and produced 84mm 4-round groups. That translates to about 3 1/3" group. That is almost twice what a marksmans gun should be capable of, in my opinion.

I think their groups from factory are a little messed up by the terrible trigger. I think even the stock trigger with some light work done by a knowledgeable person would help with those numbers

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I took a look at my old factory trigger groups and I see no reason why a non-s308 trigger wouldn't work in a s308.

 

If your interested in drilling a couple of holes in your s308s receiver I will send you the trigger, wish-bone and hammer hook from my (I think) s12 along with dimensions to locate the holes that need to be drilled.

 

You would reuse your hammer, disconnector, over travel stop and both springs.

 

Installing this trigger would get you a more natural, straight back trigger pull rather then the strange, up-at-an-angle trigger pull that the s308 come with. You could then polish the contact surfaces to your liking and get a pretty decent trigger.

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I haven't even purchased the rifle yet thats tomorrow but while reading up on it that was the most frequent complaint about the rifl was the trigger.

I want DMR style rifle its not a sniper but it can reach out and touch what i want when i need to. As for trigger pull im not looking for a hair trigger I dont have many guns so i couldnt say where id like the weight at so pretty much whatever is conducive to the role.

 

I am so new to many of these weapons I had to look up what a DMR style rifle is. I honestly can't see my Saiga .308-2 filling that role well, with its' 16" barrel. I am confident I could probably hit a deer or man-sized target in a pretty fatal area at 300 yards, but not at distances longer.

 

IF you are getting a Saiga .308 and you want that DMR type [1/2 step below sniper gun as I understand it?], you better get the longer barrel version.

 

Seriously, from what I've read, the Saiga .308 is better in the role of a main battle rifle than as a sniping rifle. That is what Dragunovs [spelling?] are for. Heck, I've heard VEPR actions are more accurate than the Saiga, but I don't know from experience [and the poster could have been a poser too].

 

These are fun guns, and they will save your life when the zombies are within 300 yards. But, don't expect an unaltered Saiga .308 with a 16" barrel to 'reach out and touch' what you want at 500 yards [DMR distances] where you want to touch it. There are more accurate platforms out there, but most wont last as long without cleaning/proper maintenance.

 

For a fun rifle, for a hunting rifle [300 yards max with stock sights and 16" barrel for the sake of the animal], for a SHTF rifle, the Saiga .308 is a great value. For a benchrest gun or a step between a main battle rifle and a sniper rifle, the Saiga doesn't seem to fit the bill. It is a MBR, not a DMR, and the action makes it more difficult to attain DMR-type proficiency at distance.

 

Heck, I'd be surprised if a DMR rifle averaged more than 2" groups at 100 yards. My Saiga was sighted in at the factory and produced 84mm 4-round groups. That translates to about 3 1/3" group. That is almost twice what a marksmans gun should be capable of, in my opinion.

 

I hope you enjoy whatever you purchase, and good luck!

 

Im gonna be replacing the barrel and i am going with the 22" version but thats another topic right now i just wanna focus on the trigger. A DMR is usually no more the a battle rifle fitted with a scope maybe a couple mods made and and a speciality part (match grade barrel). A vepr would be better since its an RPK receiver which has bilateral reinforcement of the receiver but they dont have a configuration that works to my specs(CA legal detach mag). The saiga 308 has a reinforced receiver on one side and is more accurate than the other saigas with a good barrel on it because of that reinforcement.

Sorry barnett drilling the receiver is a no go, but thanks man

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I want Better trigger w/o converting because i live in the PRK and that would defeat my goal of having a detachable magazine fed semiauto .308. If you know something useful please share if you dont have any ideas that contribute to my goal hold your tongue.

 

I apologize for some of the people on this forum who feel they have to interject their bull shit just to be heard. They are an embarrassment to the forum.

 

Apologize all you want, that's certainly your prerogative. However, my take on the situation is a bit different.

 

The OP is yet another newbie starting out on the wrong foot, IMHO. His time is too valuable to do any research on his own but he has no problem with anyone else putting out the effort to cater to him. So he demands to be spoon fed as is typically the case with people who have no interest in the forum but only want their specific question answered and then leave. That's fine, but then he adds (in his first post) that forum members should "hold their tongues" if they can't meet his specific requirements and follow his instructions. I find that arrogant and offensive at the least.

 

This forum is a community of like minded individuals who will indeed "bull shit" to a degree but will also usually give you the answer you're looking for. There were very few of the "embarrassing" comments you feel are so detrimental to the forum in this thread so the OP should have easily been able to ignore any irrelevant posts and concentrate on the helpful ones instead. Instead, he wasted his valuable time by lecturing forum members who chose not to follow his guidelines to the letter. Whatever.

 

Anyway, that's my take on it. If you agree with my post, please +1 it. If you don't happen to, then hold your tongue, as I'm really not interested. Make sure you follow my instructions exactly.

 

Thanks,

Tim

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Jack,

 

Reread my post, if you please. I merely took issue with his attitude. In actuality, I initially didn't intend to respond to his post at all. Factually, I didn't. I responded to yours, where you chose to denigrate fellow forum members for a bit of mild ribbing. That bothered me for some reason so I chose the other side of the issue. To me at least, it boils down to a matter of simple etiquette. There have been countless newbies who have asked questions rather than researching it themselves. I'll admit to being one myself at one time as the search engine on this forum isn't the best. As I said before, that's fine.

 

However, I will take exception every single time when someone states "hold your tongue" in their initial post while at the same time demanding help. Not a good way to start out as far as I'm concerned. I will also admit some resentment to your vulgarity and asking "Is your life so ------- pathetic". While it's none of your business of course, my life is just fine. Thanks for asking.

 

I won't respond in kind because I believe in treating people online just as I would in person. The anonymity of the the internet emboldens some to be a bit harsher than if they were face to face with someone. I can only hope that's the case with you, otherwise I feel sorry for the people you deal with on a daily basis. By responding to my last post you also violated the OP's instructions to not post unless you were contributing information concerning his question. Did you feel I was challenging you to a pissing match or something? If so, that wasn't the case at all. I was merely stating my opinion and standing up for other members.

 

Lastly, I didn't post anything until I felt the question was adequately answered so as not to muddy the waters. I honestly believe it was. Do you? If so, then this thread has outlived it's usefulness.

 

Sincerely,

Timothy Strimple

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  • 2 weeks later...

I put the moly paste or anti seeze on all my trigger sears. It lessens the trigger pull up to 50% right away on some guns and smooths out the trigger actions too. I also lube the saiga's action with moly too and its a whole different feeling action. It feels like a more expensive gun once the moly wears into the pores of the metal. My guns never leave home without moly in them thats a fact.

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