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FTE with bulk low brass fixed...


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TWO PERFORMANCE SPRINGS FIXED IT...Everyone in here has had a stove pipe/"FTE""failure to eject" before doing mods, I finally got mine to feed walmart fed 2 3/4 bird shot, but I did all the normal mods 1st, ported the 4 ports, opened the gas block hole, installed performance gas puck, and PERFORMANCE SPRING from CSS in the front, dremel rounded the carrier corners and hammer corners and hand polished with mothers till it was like glass, same to bolt and rest of carrier, still was stove pipe'n unless I put the buttstock up against my hip, then it would work great, but on my shoulder it would jam after a couple rounds, so I said screw it and put another performance sping on the rear "WHICH IS A SOFTER SPRING" compared to the beefy stock spring there's a visual difference, you have to knock the pin out and change the rear spring, now I have front and rear performance springs and I bet a five yr old could shoot it lol. theres almost half the recoil, I know this is gonna get people yelling about trunions and whatever but this is for low brass bulk ammo, put your stock main spring on and gas plug to 1 if you wanna shoot expensive stuff. And in no way am I saying this is the fte/stove fix for everyone, its what worked for me. Its a last resort for weak shoulders. CHEAP AMMO NO FTE people heard me yell woohoo I fixed it finally.

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Try the original springs every 100 rounds or so... At first my S12 would only run Winchester and Federal low-brass with the CSS spring. After about >300 rounds, it now runs both flawlessly with the original spring.

 

I don't want to piss on your parade, but I wouldn't consider it fixed if you have to change the springs if you want to run high-brass or magnums.

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post-42819-0-34089700-1348538382_thumb.jpg

What do you mean by "weak shoulders"? What does the rest of your set up look like i.e. furniture puck, etc.? Changing the springs scares me.

 

I'm not a big guy so it makes sense it fires with the stock on my hip and not my shoulder, thats why i said weak shoulder. I have a auto plug, so if I want to shoot hi brass or slugs I can just put the other spring in, not all of these are the same, my friend has a S 12 thats works great right outta the box, but this was what I had to do to feed cheap ammo, and I will continue to swap springs just to make sure, but as of right now it kicks like a 7.62 and feeds every round and thats all that matters to me.

 

post-42819-0-35551800-1348538435.jpganother

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Interesting. Before I opened up my ports and got my gun 100% I was considering using 11lb 1911 springs as replacements. Have heard of that working as well. I have a performance spring but it did not help until I opened up the ports. Could have save myself the bloody knuckles and just put 2 springs in. good work.

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Just my opinion....

If all of the aforementioned modifications were done properly and there were no issues with the original factory firearm, the weapon should have ran 'low brass' without changing the springs. there is something going on there that isn't quite right. Glad it runs to your liking now, however. Enjoy!

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What most people seem to have a hard time understanding because of their inexperience, is that the OP achieved less felt recoil by changing to lighter recoil springs. It is commonly referred to as "Tuning the Recoil Impulse" of the firearm. It is the same for pistols.

 

For people who are shooting competition or light sporting loads (1145-1250 FPS with 1 oz to 1 1/8 oz shot) then it is advantageous to go to lighter recoil springs. It improves the cycle or "Lock Time" by allowing the gun to cycle faster than it would with the heavier springs.

 

When some of my sponsored shooters are getting set up for a typical USPSA Competition, we will go as light as a 14.0# spring on the back and an 11.0 # on the front. This will give an extremely light/fast recoil impulse with the light loads, plus it is a progressive spring rate. The gun will shoot like a .22!!!!!!

 

Spring rates are extremely important when tuning the firearm, whether it be a 1911 or a Saiga 12 shotgun.

 

Tune the firearm to match the shells and the way you want the gun to handle.

 

Jack

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I to am changing springs out to performance springs i haven't changed the back one yet only because the pin doesn't want to come out not sure whats holding it up ive done all my polishing on the bolt feels smoother than it was so hopfully when i get the pin out and make the switch it will solve my

FTE once in awhile i get FTF going to try polishing the front next where the shell feeds in. wtg torkit.

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What most people seem to have a hard time understanding because of their inexperience, is that the OP achieved less felt recoil by changing to lighter recoil springs. It is commonly referred to as "Tuning the Recoil Impulse" of the firearm. It is the same for pistols.

 

For people who are shooting competition or light sporting loads (1145-1250 FPS with 1 oz to 1 1/8 oz shot) then it is advantageous to go to lighter recoil springs. It improves the cycle or "Lock Time" by allowing the gun to cycle faster than it would with the heavier springs.

 

When some of my sponsored shooters are getting set up for a typical USPSA Competition, we will go as light as a 14.0# spring on the back and an 11.0 # on the front. This will give an extremely light/fast recoil impulse with the light loads, plus it is a progressive spring rate. The gun will shoot like a .22!!!!!!

 

Spring rates are extremely important when tuning the firearm, whether it be a 1911 or a Saiga 12 shotgun.

 

Tune the firearm to match the shells and the way you want the gun to handle.

 

Jack

 

I agree, I have put about a 1000 rounds through it before I went with the springs, now it works.

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