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Saiga 12 bolt carrier may have problem


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you definitely have a problem. here is what I would do: if this is a new gun you bought I would contact the importer of the gun and find who does the authorized warranty repair, contact them to have the gun check by them on what is causing that. buying another carrier might might not solve the problem if it something in the gun doing that.

Edited by Matthew Hopkins
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"Buy another carrier" we have been looking for a carrier and bolt,where shall one find these items??

 

 

 

 

you definitely have a problem. here is what I would do: if this is a new gun you bought I would contact the importer of the gun and find who does the authorized warranty repair, contact them to have the gun check by them on what is causing that. buying another carrier might might not solve the problem if it something in the gun doing that.

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I might be mistaken but I don't believe headspacing is an issue on semi autos,just in bolt action operations?

 

 

 

 

Is the bolt damaged as well? If not, you don't need a new bolt, just the bolt carrier. The bolt carrier is not a part involved in headspacing, so If the bolt is ok, don't replace it.

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Please explain to me about headspacing a semi auto that the barrel is not removed and all your doing is replacing the bolt. If the replacement bolt is of same diameter then as long as the barrel was not removed then ???headspacing is the area between the bolt and barrel lug!

 

 

 

 

 

Head spacing is an issue with both semi, and bolt..however it's not as much of an issue with rimmed cartidge..unless your headspace isn't enough..you should ALWAYS check it to be safe.

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it wiggles but always has sense i bought it new. It looks like its just breaking of little thin pieces. Put 200 rounds threw it today and kept a eye on it didn't see any crack. I think I am going to order a R&R carrier just to be on the safe side.

Edited by Rottieman33
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If it were mine, I'd measure from the rear left side of the carrier where it butts up against the trunnion, to the end of the op-rod and record the measurement so I set the next one at the same length, then I'd drill through the indentations, remove the factory op-rod, screw in an M-12x1.25 threaded brass rod and weld the chip up.

Then I'd install a Tom Cole HD Op-rod, which comes longer than the factory unit, fitting it so the new op-rod bottoms out in the carrier so the force is then transferred directly to the carrier so the steel's under compression stresses like it was formulated for, rather than your current situation where, as the puck hammers the op-rod against the angled threads the op-rod subjects the carrier's steel to tensile stresses because the threads absorbing the shock make the force spread outward.

 

That's just what I'd do if that carrier was my own. YMMV

Because of the nature of some breaks, and the possibility that a steel defect making the steel brittle may at times be the underlying cause, I cannot guarantee the repairs, therefore I tell others how I've done them successfully, but I do not offer the service any longer.

Here's a little deal where I explain how I do an HD op-rod installation, hope it helps; http://forum.saiga-1...vy-duty-op-rod/

 

The measurement point is different in that thread because I'm not welding to the end of the carrier, which can change the length, depending on how much one builds it up, or dresses it down.

 

Having a spare carrier on hand isn't a bad idea at all.

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Here is the link to the part. http://randrtargets....arrier-us-made/

 

Doug

God bless you guys.

You're saving so many people's asses with that. I know 5 guys off the top of my head who were looking for carriers. I've alerted all that you're making them back when you first announced it. 032.gif

 

I'd recommend anybody with a high end S-12 who intends on keeping it for life get one while they're still being made to have on hand as a spare being as the carrier's generally the only part that can break beyond repair on the guns outside of a barrel obstruction.

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That problem can be eliminated without welding for about $11 and the carrier will be much stronger, but it takes skill and the carrier could be trash if it isn't done right.

Do tell?

I quit doing carrier repairs & just started instructing the capable on how to do their own because I can't warranty them. "Deadeye" actually has the last brass M-12x1.25 rod I made.

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it wiggles but always has sense i bought it new. It looks like its just breaking of little thin pieces. Put 200 rounds threw it today and kept a eye on it didn't see any crack. I think I am going to order a R&R carrier just to be on the safe side.

 

it's your money, but if this is still under warranty it makes zero sense to buy a 280 dollar US made carrier when one can be replaced with just shipping cost to a authorized warranty repair center. you really don't know if it is a badly made carrier, or something in the gun that is causing that.

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  • 2 weeks later...

If it were mine, I'd measure from the rear left side of the carrier where it butts up against the trunnion, to the end of the op-rod and record the measurement so I set the next one at the same length, then I'd drill through the indentations, remove the factory op-rod, screw in an M-12x1.25 threaded brass rod and weld the chip up.

Then I'd install a Tom Cole HD Op-rod, which comes longer than the factory unit, fitting it so the new op-rod bottoms out in the carrier so the force is then transferred directly to the carrier so the steel's under compression stresses like it was formulated for, rather than your current situation where, as the puck hammers the op-rod against the angled threads the op-rod subjects the carrier's steel to tensile stresses because the threads absorbing the shock make the force spread outward.

 

That's just what I'd do if that carrier was my own. YMMV

Because of the nature of some breaks, and the possibility that a steel defect making the steel brittle may at times be the underlying cause, I cannot guarantee the repairs, therefore I tell others how I've done them successfully, but I do not offer the service any longer.

Here's a little deal where I explain how I do an HD op-rod installation, hope it helps; http://forum.saiga-1...vy-duty-op-rod/

 

The measurement point is different in that thread because I'm not welding to the end of the carrier, which can change the length, depending on how much one builds it up, or dresses it down.

 

Having a spare carrier on hand isn't a bad idea at all.

 

I have no idea what Paul just said but it sounds like perhaps he's one to send it to....

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