poolingmyignorance 2,191 Posted October 1, 2012 Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 (edited) So I finally got my hands on a Kvar bullpup built on a Romey G by CAI. First thing I noticed was that god aweful trigger. Like dragging a piano across a dirt road on a piece of monofiliament. I right then and then and there decied it was time to improve. Unfortuntely I don't have pictures of EVERYSTEP, as it's hard to do a lot of this work while operating a camra. So hopefully I got enough pics of the parts to give you guys a good idea of how too. Now this isn't going to be an "all inclusive" HOW TO, simply because I don't want those who don't have basic shop skill, and knowlege of how the AK FCG works atempting this. I played with some of this stuff and had to throw away one FCG cause I took a little too much offa one part. So I'll leave that part for you guys to work out on your own. Also I'll come back later and add more pictures cause I realize I forgot one kinda important one. TOOLS: DRILL 3/8" DRILL BIT HACK SAW/ BAND SAW PROPANE, OXY/ACTE TORCH AND SOME FINE BRAZING TIPS A SMALL VICE NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS A FEW NEEDLE FILE (ESCPECIALLY A ROUND ONE) DREMEL WITH POLISHING AND GRINDING TOOLS MATERIALS: 3 or 4 316ss 1/8" Tig Rods A double wound AK hammer spring. (the lighter the better) First step was to get rid of that flimsey wire and upgrade to a piece of 1/8" 316ss Tig rod. In order to get the lenght and the bends right you'll need your orginal linkage to use as a guid/ template. Measure your linkage, hook to hook and add 3 inches. good. Now you'll have to mark about 3" back from each end. You'll need to find a way to reduce that diameter to about 5/32" across those two 3" sections of your wire. (I chucked the rod up in a drill and held it to the side of a chop saw, but a sander will work too) Now check your rod diameter to make sure it will fit throught the holes in both parts of your FCG. You want them tight fitting but able to rotate freely. Now the tricky part is making the bends in your linkage correct. start at the trigger hook end and make that bend first, it should roll easily without heat you'll need to maintain that gradual radius for this end. After making that bend check your fit, you may need to use the round file inside the bend to round out the radius of the TIG rod. Now is the time to work that thing around in there and make sure it swivels smoothly. From there the next two bends are really difficult, hope you bought a couple extra rods it took me three tries. Just clamp close to your vise and use the heat sparingly, good thing about stainless is you can bend it quiet a few times before it will break. Keep laying your orginal linkage ontop of your work piece after it cools and make sure your angles match. Once you get to the last bend, You'll want the Over All Length (O.A.L) to be about 0.030" shorter than the orginal. This is because the orginal has extra lenght to expand as it streches it's flimsey POS-ness, creating that craptacular bullpup trigger feel we all love. You'll have to grind/file just a little bit off your front trigger flange to get that sucker in there, as well as file your inside radius of your linkage bend as you did before. Also take this oppertunity while you have the linkage in your hand, to flatten the outside of the front hook (trigger side) to keep it from dragging the barrel any. While you have the linkage out, you'll want to alter the linkage's profile where it passes by your hammer spring from round to FLAT. You want the flats to be the VERTICAL sides. A finnish pad on a die grinder, or a sanding drum on a dremmel will speed this along, remember smoother is better, so take your time and polish that section like you would any other part of your trigger assembly. While you have it all apart, you know that little spring in the front trigger that came with the kit? You'll want to increase it's power slightly by increasing the coil of the looped end. Find an approriate sized dowel ( I think I used a 3/8" drill bit) and hold the legs with one hand grab the looped end with your needle nose and just pull it tight around your dowel, you want the end result to be the loop facing 90degrees down from your spring legs. (Make sense?) Now the next step is to make your double hook trigger a SINGLE HOOK but it's going to have the hook on the RIGHT side. The same side your linkage connects to. Once you've got that lopped off go ahead and do your trigger job, polish and clean all your normal areas to improve your pull to as smooth as possible. Now before your reinstall everything, you'll want to grind part of the rivet heads on your mag relase where they come through the inside of the receiver. You'll want to create a 45 degree bevell fromt he top center of the head, sloping downward to the right side of the bottom of the receiver. This will allow extra room for your hammer spring and linkage to coexist and create a guide for the linkage to ride in. Now take as LITTLE AS POSSIBLE and check it offten. You should be able to assemble your real (rear) FCG, with linkage and activate the trigger by pulling on the exposed linkage rod sticking out the front of the receiver without benifit of the front trigger being connected. If you cant, your trigger isn't quiet clean enough. You'll gain quiet a bit of mechnical leverage once you add the real trigger to the front, but you should be able to pull the protruding wire and activate the hammer with a thumb and index finger. Now that you've got that all checked out, and working touch up the paint where you ground the rivet heads, reassmble and enjoy. Besure if your using the Kvar bullpup that when you put that front pin in you make sure the trigger is pressed all the way to the right. The pin has a swell in the left side to keept he trigger flange from walking over and touching the barrel making it hot. Now myself to help ensure this never becomes a problem I vented the handguard further, and skeletonized my trigger to allow more airflow for quicker heat dissipation. I don't know if this is necessary but it looks cool and I think it'll help. So YMMV! Resulting pull: 3/8" travel *aprox, and 3lbs *aprox http://youtu.be/8SOl_EGPb2E Edited October 1, 2012 by poolingmyignorance Quote Link to post Share on other sites
poolingmyignorance 2,191 Posted October 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 (edited) I've included this picture (BOTTOM) to show proper barrel-trigger flange clearnace. Notice the flat section of the hook I spoke of earlier. This picture should illisturate the clearance between the hammer spring, and linkage. Edited October 1, 2012 by poolingmyignorance Quote Link to post Share on other sites
poolingmyignorance 2,191 Posted October 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 this picture is to of the modifications to the rivet heads I spoke of. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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