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Either I'm an idiot, or you cannot adjust for windage on this thin


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Just a bit of background, I previous shot M16s when I was in the Marines. Adjusting for windage was always done with rear windage adjustment. Front sight post adjusted for elevation.

 

Now, I have a SAIGA .308 and I love this gun. However, when trying to zero it out, I noticed that it was firing dead on level, but to the left. I could not figure out how to adjust for windage.

 

I noticed that similar to the M16 it seems to have a way to adjust the front sight post, but does this adjust for windage on this gun too? Please help!

 

 

Also, the only modification I've made is to put a TAPCO AR style stock on it, thereby removing the sporting stock.

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You adjust the front side for L-R.. there is a BIG rod that goes left to right.. you will need an AK adjustment tool. $10 or so.

 

Notice on the tools handle the notch.. thats for the elevation by turning the front post up/down (like an AR)..

 

Sample picture of TOP view with site tool on it..

 

AKSTwind.jpg

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You adjust the front side for L-R.. there is a BIG rod that goes left to right.. you will need an AK adjustment tool. $10 or so.

 

Notice on the tools handle the notch.. thats for the elevation by turning the front post up/down (like an AR)..

 

Sample picture of TOP view with site tool on it..

 

AKSTwind.jpg

 

Man I feel like a total jackass right now. LOL

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The owner's manual states to "use a hammer" if you don't have an adjustment tool.

 

A hammer really is a useful tool for adjusting AK front sights. People always make a comment when they see them with my gear at the range. But they are not for pounding, but for giving extra leverage. Sometimes the front sight drums won't budge simply by turning the handle, and the claw of the hammer holding the handle gives the leverage and makes it easy.

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Go to this website, http://www.ar15.com/content/manuals/AK47USArmyOperatorManual.pdf , for an Operator Manual, produced by the US Army 203rd Military Intelligence Battalion (Technical Intelligence), for detailed instructions on adjusting your sights. This Operator Manual is much more detailed than the “Manual” that came with my Saiga 308. Pay close attention to the section (page 6) on the amount of movement (bullet strike) when moving the front sight. The tool illustrated in Figure 19 (micrometer adjustment) can be purchased on-line, but I can’t remember what website. I would suggest a laser bore sighting insert to save on burning up ammo, available from Midway USA for less than $30.

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You adjust the front side for L-R.. there is a BIG rod that goes left to right.. you will need an AK adjustment tool. $10 or so.

 

Notice on the tools handle the notch.. thats for the elevation by turning the front post up/down (like an AR)..

 

Sample picture of TOP view with site tool on it..

 

 

Man I feel like a total jackass right now. LOL

 

Nope, a jackass is the idiot who will not ask the question

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Thanks for the information guys! Many thanks for the gun sight change suggestions, tool suggestions, and the manual.

 

I'm wanting this weapon to be my main battle rifle. The only thing that I am not happy about is that it crimps the round casings when ejecting them, making them worthless I feel for reloading. I took it to a gunsmith and he said that's just the way it is. is that true?

 

Also, the trigger pull is kind of hard compared to the M16. In other words, I have to pull the trigger all the way back to the rear of the trigger guard to make it fire. Can that be adjusted to be more "loose" or easier you think?

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The standard Saigas from the factory use a linkage iinside on the trigger set.. You would need to change to a TAPCO G2 Single Hook to see an upgrade on that end.. thats why you see the term CONVERSIOn on here alot.. most people change the trigger to the G2 (which is an std AK trigger) and then change the stocks and such to a normal pistol grip and AK style stock.

 

Carolina Shooters Supply sells conversion 'kits' ready to go.. DInzag Arms sells a 308 trigger set that is a drop-in.. so you don't have to modify the G2 yourself to work.. Both companies are GTG..

 

And unfortunatley yes the 308 dings up all casings.. (I had the same model a few years back).

 

Heres a picture with a regular AK style stock, pistol grip, and the modified G2 installed.. shot VERY well after the trigger change

 

Saiga308NDOA.jpg

Edited by YWHIC
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Thanks for the information guys! Many thanks for the gun sight change suggestions, tool suggestions, and the manual.

 

I'm wanting this weapon to be my main battle rifle. The only thing that I am not happy about is that it crimps the round casings when ejecting them, making them worthless I feel for reloading. I took it to a gunsmith and he said that's just the way it is. is that true?

 

Also, the trigger pull is kind of hard compared to the M16. In other words, I have to pull the trigger all the way back to the rear of the trigger guard to make it fire. Can that be adjusted to be more "loose" or easier you think?

 

 

They will reload JUST FINE... You are not going to get the case life you would from a bolt gun... but they WILL resize and reload and work for you multiple times. you will just need to keep an eye on the brass for issues more closely than you would with bolt gun brass... I have rounds I have loaded and fired a half dozen times from my Saiga 308... still going strong. You are most likely never going to get SUB MOA groups with this rifle anyways... MOA is certainly doable, though... and the brass will be OK for that!!! :up:

 

 

:smoke:

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The owner's manual states to "use a hammer" if you don't have an adjustment tool.

 

A hammer really is a useful tool for adjusting AK front sights. People always make a comment when they see them with my gear at the range. But they are not for pounding, but for giving extra leverage. Sometimes the front sight drums won't budge simply by turning the handle, and the claw of the hammer holding the handle gives the leverage and makes it easy.

 

Oops. Now you tell me how to use it.

Edited by TacticoolTim
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Also, the trigger pull is kind of hard compared to the M16. In other words, I have to pull the trigger all the way back to the rear of the trigger guard to make it fire. Can that be adjusted to be more "loose" or easier you think?

 

I have an RSA trigger on mine and it is wonderful.

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+1 on the RSA. It is worth it, and follow the directions to the letter, in the exact order they tell you to.

 

or do this:

 

If it doesn't make clear sense to you from the pictures, probably don't attempt.

 

post-17871-0-03312500-1350372494_thumb.jpg

 

This is made from a standard Tapco G2 Double hook. You have to do the standard hammer profile. I also recommend custom fitting the hammer tube to minimise slop with the BHO. Sometimes the factory part fits sloppy, so leaving the tube longer will take up that space and prevent possibility of BHO binding.

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