motc7 0 Posted October 8, 2012 Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 Just a bit of background, I previous shot M16s when I was in the Marines. Adjusting for windage was always done with rear windage adjustment. Front sight post adjusted for elevation. Now, I have a SAIGA .308 and I love this gun. However, when trying to zero it out, I noticed that it was firing dead on level, but to the left. I could not figure out how to adjust for windage. I noticed that similar to the M16 it seems to have a way to adjust the front sight post, but does this adjust for windage on this gun too? Please help! Also, the only modification I've made is to put a TAPCO AR style stock on it, thereby removing the sporting stock. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted October 8, 2012 Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 You adjust the front side for L-R.. there is a BIG rod that goes left to right.. you will need an AK adjustment tool. $10 or so. Notice on the tools handle the notch.. thats for the elevation by turning the front post up/down (like an AR).. Sample picture of TOP view with site tool on it.. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
motc7 0 Posted October 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 You adjust the front side for L-R.. there is a BIG rod that goes left to right.. you will need an AK adjustment tool. $10 or so. Notice on the tools handle the notch.. thats for the elevation by turning the front post up/down (like an AR).. Sample picture of TOP view with site tool on it.. Man I feel like a total jackass right now. LOL Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timy 1,185 Posted October 8, 2012 Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 The owner's manual states to "use a hammer" if you don't have an adjustment tool. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jimdigriz 580 Posted October 8, 2012 Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 The owner's manual states to "use a hammer" if you don't have an adjustment tool. A hammer really is a useful tool for adjusting AK front sights. People always make a comment when they see them with my gear at the range. But they are not for pounding, but for giving extra leverage. Sometimes the front sight drums won't budge simply by turning the handle, and the claw of the hammer holding the handle gives the leverage and makes it easy. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
su16a 84 Posted October 8, 2012 Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 (edited) those front sights are in there very tight, you may have to oil it up pretty good before you even start trying to adjust it. FWIW I upgraded my front to the XS 24/7 and the rear to the Krebs Ghost Ring on my 223. EDIT: add 2nd link Edited October 8, 2012 by Another-Saiga-Fan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
El Cabron 91 Posted October 8, 2012 Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 Go to this website, http://www.ar15.com/content/manuals/AK47USArmyOperatorManual.pdf , for an Operator Manual, produced by the US Army 203rd Military Intelligence Battalion (Technical Intelligence), for detailed instructions on adjusting your sights. This Operator Manual is much more detailed than the “Manual” that came with my Saiga 308. Pay close attention to the section (page 6) on the amount of movement (bullet strike) when moving the front sight. The tool illustrated in Figure 19 (micrometer adjustment) can be purchased on-line, but I can’t remember what website. I would suggest a laser bore sighting insert to save on burning up ammo, available from Midway USA for less than $30. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dad2142Dad 6,559 Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 You adjust the front side for L-R.. there is a BIG rod that goes left to right.. you will need an AK adjustment tool. $10 or so. Notice on the tools handle the notch.. thats for the elevation by turning the front post up/down (like an AR).. Sample picture of TOP view with site tool on it.. Man I feel like a total jackass right now. LOL Nope, a jackass is the idiot who will not ask the question 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
motc7 0 Posted October 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Thanks for the information guys! Many thanks for the gun sight change suggestions, tool suggestions, and the manual. I'm wanting this weapon to be my main battle rifle. The only thing that I am not happy about is that it crimps the round casings when ejecting them, making them worthless I feel for reloading. I took it to a gunsmith and he said that's just the way it is. is that true? Also, the trigger pull is kind of hard compared to the M16. In other words, I have to pull the trigger all the way back to the rear of the trigger guard to make it fire. Can that be adjusted to be more "loose" or easier you think? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 (edited) The standard Saigas from the factory use a linkage iinside on the trigger set.. You would need to change to a TAPCO G2 Single Hook to see an upgrade on that end.. thats why you see the term CONVERSIOn on here alot.. most people change the trigger to the G2 (which is an std AK trigger) and then change the stocks and such to a normal pistol grip and AK style stock. Carolina Shooters Supply sells conversion 'kits' ready to go.. DInzag Arms sells a 308 trigger set that is a drop-in.. so you don't have to modify the G2 yourself to work.. Both companies are GTG.. And unfortunatley yes the 308 dings up all casings.. (I had the same model a few years back). Heres a picture with a regular AK style stock, pistol grip, and the modified G2 installed.. shot VERY well after the trigger change Edited October 9, 2012 by YWHIC 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IndyArms 10,189 Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Thanks for the information guys! Many thanks for the gun sight change suggestions, tool suggestions, and the manual. I'm wanting this weapon to be my main battle rifle. The only thing that I am not happy about is that it crimps the round casings when ejecting them, making them worthless I feel for reloading. I took it to a gunsmith and he said that's just the way it is. is that true? Also, the trigger pull is kind of hard compared to the M16. In other words, I have to pull the trigger all the way back to the rear of the trigger guard to make it fire. Can that be adjusted to be more "loose" or easier you think? They will reload JUST FINE... You are not going to get the case life you would from a bolt gun... but they WILL resize and reload and work for you multiple times. you will just need to keep an eye on the brass for issues more closely than you would with bolt gun brass... I have rounds I have loaded and fired a half dozen times from my Saiga 308... still going strong. You are most likely never going to get SUB MOA groups with this rifle anyways... MOA is certainly doable, though... and the brass will be OK for that!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timy 1,185 Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 (edited) The owner's manual states to "use a hammer" if you don't have an adjustment tool. A hammer really is a useful tool for adjusting AK front sights. People always make a comment when they see them with my gear at the range. But they are not for pounding, but for giving extra leverage. Sometimes the front sight drums won't budge simply by turning the handle, and the claw of the hammer holding the handle gives the leverage and makes it easy. Oops. Now you tell me how to use it. Edited October 10, 2012 by TacticoolTim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jimdigriz 580 Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 Also, the trigger pull is kind of hard compared to the M16. In other words, I have to pull the trigger all the way back to the rear of the trigger guard to make it fire. Can that be adjusted to be more "loose" or easier you think? I have an RSA trigger on mine and it is wonderful. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
netpackrat 566 Posted October 12, 2012 Report Share Posted October 12, 2012 I have an RSA trigger on mine and it is wonderful. Ditto. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
blfuller 2 Posted October 16, 2012 Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 Just make sure if you want the point of impact to move to the left, you want to move the front sight post to the right. This would be opposite to what the windage adjustment on a rear sight would be. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted October 16, 2012 Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 +1 on the RSA. It is worth it, and follow the directions to the letter, in the exact order they tell you to. or do this: If it doesn't make clear sense to you from the pictures, probably don't attempt. This is made from a standard Tapco G2 Double hook. You have to do the standard hammer profile. I also recommend custom fitting the hammer tube to minimise slop with the BHO. Sometimes the factory part fits sloppy, so leaving the tube longer will take up that space and prevent possibility of BHO binding. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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