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Hello,

 

I'm new, but I've been using this forum as a resource for a while.

 

Most likely I'll be going to pick up a 7.62x39 Saiga Sporter soon, assuming it's not gone from the local gun store by the time I get back there.

 

I'm probably going to shoot it in the sporter configuration for a little bit first just to try it out, but I definitely want to convert it fairly soon. I know everybody says to just convert the Saiga yourself, etc. etc., but I don't believe in my dremeling abilities and I don't have a vice and workspace (which I would want if I were to do it myself).

 

Anyway, would anyone with experience, and optimally a gunsmith with a drill press, and who lives in Utah, Colorado, Wyoming or Southern Idaho be able to help me do a rear end conversion?

I plan on buying a CSS conversion kit (Kit #6 with the CSS billet trigger guard to be exact) and a bullet guide kit (which is all I need, right? I want to keep the Saiga handguard). I'm also hoping to have the barrel threaded for 14x1LH devices.

 

My alternative is just sending it to Overland Industries and paying like $250 including shipping to just have the rear converted. Which, I don't really want to do, but I would be willing to compensate some for labor.

-EDIT- I looked through the vendors list the other day, and I couldn't find anybody nearby that was offering conversions.

 

If you're interesting in helping, please let me know. I'd also really appreciate pictures of your previous conversion(s).

 

Thanks

Edited by Schwarzmaler
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I felt the same way when I bought my Sporter. You don't need a Dremel or a lot of work space to complete a conversion. You need a good hand drill and Cobalt 3/16 drill bit to take care of the rivets. A vice or some means of holding the rifle securely will make it a lot easier for you. Spending another $250 to have the rear conversion done is a waste IMO. Watch the many You Tube conversion videos out there and go for it.

 

SaigaConverted002.jpg

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I to felt the same way.. tge conversion took maybe 2 hours including waiting for the paint to dry. Its not hard at all. Buy a center punch to help keep ur drill bit on point and take your time. I used a buddy and a lawn chair as my working area. Good luck

20121016_220248.jpg

Edited by cguiro
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Field vice:

Bag of sand.

Set a short board on the sand bag, put back half of the gun on the wood, set the front half of the receiver on the othe part of the sand bag. Smoosh it down into the sand, lay a towel over the top of receiver...kneel on towel. It's remarkably stable.

OR, you can buy a sliding clamp at your local hardwar, and use some card board and small pieces of wood as cusions on any counter top or kitchen table.

 

Rivets: File a flat spot on the heads, then center punch the flat spots, now it's easy to stay centered. If your really worried about this part you can put a demple in the center punch with a 3/32 drill bit first, now your 3/16 can't walk.

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I'm also interested in having using AK mags.

Do you just need a bullet guide, or do you need to 'massage' the magwell too?

 

I'm still not really liking the idea of me doing it myself, but thanks for the votes of confidence. Thanks for the ideas about the center-punch and using a smaller bit to make a guide hole.

 

I've watched a couple converion videos (or parts) online, the main one youtube always brings up includes a part where the guy says "Oops," while drilling - that whole event just makes it worse (he overdrills the rivet or the bit slips off the rivet, I forget, either way, not good).

 

I'm also probably extra worried because this is the first gun I'm not receiving as a gift and quite possible my only shot at an 'assault rifle' (which, admittedly, is a large part of why I'm trying to buy it now as opposed to later).

Edited by Schwarzmaler
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