Jump to content

Recommended Posts

has anybody installed these triggers ina ak-47 and do anybody have any feedback on them.planning in buying a set to replace my arsenal stock trigger set.

They're okay.

Steel's softer than the Tapco though. They cut real quick in comparison when I work on them.

I like the textured trigger lever, but I like the Tapco's steel being harder being as after heavy use, I've worn down a Tapco disconnector a bit, so I don't want it to be any softer.

That's why I started doing the MatchTrigger mods on the Tapcos.

 

That being said, what don't you like about the Arsenal in an AK?

The sear height is cool for AKs, and it's a comfortable trigger level if it's arsenal brand.

Link to post
Share on other sites

has anybody installed these triggers ina ak-47 and do anybody have any feedback on them.planning in buying a set to replace my arsenal stock trigger set.

They're okay.

Steel's softer than the Tapco though. They cut real quick in comparison when I work on them.

I like the textured trigger lever, but I like the Tapco's steel being harder being as after heavy use, I've worn down a Tapco disconnector a bit, so I don't want it to be any softer.

That's why I started doing the MatchTrigger mods on the Tapcos.

 

That being said, what don't you like about the Arsenal in an AK?

The sear height is cool for AKs, and it's a comfortable trigger level if it's arsenal brand.

 

the arsenal trigger has trigger slap and i want a better trigger pull.how do you charge for a match trigger mod? do you have any pics on a tapco trigger.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Generally I don't advertise it as a stand alone mod, but when people ask I usually do it for $25.00 + $5.00 shipping on a customer supplied unit.

As for smooth trigger pulls though, and a trigger lever without the sharp point to stick you in the last segment of your index finger while shooting from the hip, I'll put it up against ANY AK trigger in the world & I'm confident I'll come out on top...

 

 

With regards to pictures... Who you talkin' to? lol

This is Pauly bro. Of course I have pics....

I can grab any production piece & take macro-pics. smile.png

 

MatchTrigger002.jpg

 

 

 

The hardest part is capturing the finishes though. Snyper did a good job recently. I'm just not the greatest photographer.

 

Most won't post macro-pics of random production pieces.

Some have their reasons, others don't want to show their tricks. It's kind of buyer beware.

 

As for the tightest and fastest trigger I've seen out there, Tony R's SRT trigger system is the cat's ass.

It must be fitted to the gun because it's so precise the way he does it.

 

 

 

ETA;

 

 

Or you could do the basic work to get rid of that needlessly long pull. wink.png

Any links, or a good place to find how its done? Im always looking to improve.

 

I am sure the process is similar for the TAKD trigger, but the dimensions will varry. Also, I am not sure if that has extra material in the front to run into the receiver.

 

I know there are threads out there that answer this question in exquisite detail, however I don't have time to do more than a superficial search.

 

http://forum.saiga-1...ns/#entry816710

Just weld pre-travel & overtravel limiters at the underside of the sear and the rear underside of a trigger-bar, adjust as needed, and remove material from the underside of the disconnector where it makes contact with the body of the trigger to move it farther forward.

The angle of the hook that grabs the hammer's tail should be adjusted as well when adjusting the disconnector.

 

If that doesn't make sense to a reader, don't do it. The "FC" in FCG standing for fire CONTROL and all....

If people mess up the disconnector the hammer will follow the carrier back up and hit the safety nub in the back of the carrier that keeps it from slam-firing. or, the hammer will skip the sear when released resulting in an additional discharge when the trigger is released.

That would seem like a double-tap if released quickly, or an accidental discharge if released slowly after the trigger was pulled.

 

Careful fucking with Fire Control Groups.

 

Amateurs may find it easier just to grind a bit off of the side of the disconnecter to fit the factory over-travel limiter, then round the underside of the factory limiter's axis to work, and adjust the fpull by removing material from the underside of the factory overtravel limiter like this unit that a customer sent in to me to make smoother & do MatchTrigger's refinements to;

 

002-1.jpg

 

001-5.jpg

 

In the end it looks like this when assembled;

 

003-2.jpg

Edited by PauIy
Link to post
Share on other sites

I used the texas ak trigger group when I did my conversion. It wasnt bad. It has a nice, even, smooth pull, back all the way until it breaks. To me, this was good and bad. I liked the lightness and smoothness, but it was always a surprise when the hammer would release. This led to shitty groups and I thought I was just a bad shot.

 

Then I bought a single hook tapco g2. It may need a little sanding of the contact points, but it gives a nice tactile, consistant break every time. This helped my 100yd groups alot. Just knowing when the shot will be fired through the ak's long trigger pull is a good thing.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Or you could do the basic work to get rid of that needlessly long pull. wink.png

Any links, or a good place to find how its done? Im always looking to improve.

 

I am sure the process is similar for the TAKD trigger, but the dimensions will varry. Also, I am not sure if that has extra material in the front to run into the receiver.

 

I know there are threads out there that answer this question in exquisite detail, however I don't have time to do more than a superficial search.

 

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/76775-sweetest-trigger-for-saiga-conversions/#entry816710

Edited by GunFun
Link to post
Share on other sites

Or you could do the basic work to get rid of that needlessly long pull. wink.png

Any links, or a good place to find how its done? Im always looking to improve.

 

I am sure the process is similar for the TAKD trigger, but the dimensions will varry. Also, I am not sure if that has extra material in the front to run into the receiver.

 

I know there are threads out there that answer this question in exquisite detail, however I don't have time to do more than a superficial search.

 

http://forum.saiga-1...ns/#entry816710

Thanks man, thats perfect.
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Chatbox

    Load More
    You don't have permission to chat.
×
×
  • Create New...