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Cuting s308 22" bbl to 18"


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The gas port for 16 and 22 is the same size, the saiga rifles come overgassed from the factory to accommodate bad, dirty, ammo, also to remain reliable when dirty conditions exists . So the rifle will function no matter the length of barrel. Besides, the 16 inch rifle functions without a hiccup, the 18 is gonna be fine.

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I dont know about a counter sink, I posted "the tool" to do the job.

Now I am not a gun smith nor a full time marksman, but if you could use a counter

why are the tools sold for the job.

I think if you get the counter sink off just a bit you would throw the shot off a bit.

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Can I use a counter sink, than polish it with a brass screw head?

 

You need an 11degree crown, cut concentricly to the bore. If not you'll end up with less than satisfactory trajectories. If your not going to do the 11degree, just square cut and polish the crown carefully and uniformly.

You can purchase a manual crowning tool from brownells, along with a bore guide to keep you centered. Yes it's more money, but the end result will be superior accuracy to what you've previously experiened....

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You have chosin wisely Obi Wan...no...wait...wrong movie...(again). Thinking with 100% after-the fact mental clarity, (a rare thing!) I wish I had gotten the 21" bbl instead of the maybe-too-short for a 7.62x51 16" bbl.

 

I would cut the barrel back about one inch at a time, each time experimenting with the required crowning process. Test shoot each time for accuracy? Does Brownell's rent .308 crowning tools? Would 18.5 inch be perfect?

 

Good answers already given. My .308 Saiga is kinda overgassed. Kicks the brass a long way away-soss much that an adjustable gas block is in the planning stage. Don't forget to leave enough barrel sossss you can thread it. HB of CJ (old coot)

 

I do hope we get to keep what we have? :( :( :( All 922® and NFA rules apply

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I purchased my 22" barreled 308 saiga to shoot longer range over the 16" barreled 308 saiga i have. I'm scoping it right now for deer & bear hunting. My two 16" barreled saiga's shoot 1 1/2" groups at 100yds benchrested using surplus south african 308 ball ammo. I hope my 22" barreled 308 saiga can shoot that good too. I just picked up a chinese norinco m14s in 308 and i hope it can shoot as good as my saiga's can. For under $400 the norinco was a steal or should i say great buy. I'd never pay the price of a springfield m1a. I'd rather go the extra mile and do a ground up build.

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My 22" barreled saiga has a really thick barrel all the way out to the end. Its a very slow taper. But its an older 308win saiga and it might be a 21,5" barrel. The longer barreled saiga in 308win would take the 308 round out to the longer distances accurately over the 16" barrel.

 

I believe the russian goverment just bailed out izmash so we may see boat loads of saiga's soon i hope.

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Any more suggestions?

 

Have a competent gunsmith do the work?

 

I do love Jim. Lol...

 

I agree. I've never done the homework around the twist rate of the s308 barrel and acceptable barrel length but if 18" would work out in that regard the going for 18" gets my vote.

Expect to press out the barrel, cut, crown, turn down 1/2" of the OD, & thread to 5/8x24 on a lathe.

Then put equal amount of work into other aspects of the rifle.

 

If all you want to do is chop the barrel and stop your work there then why bother?

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After the powder has burned off you aren't getting much from more barrel.

Accuracy reports are mixed between 16 and 21 inch models though frankly i think 16 too short, fireballs are not good.

308s ideally run from 18-20 inches so anywhere in that range is fine as is 21 inch for that matter.

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1- Shorter tubes are stiffer and therefore more accurate. Longer tubes have more velocity but more "whip" that causes vertical stringing.

 

2- 18" to 19.5" is an ideal comprimise in length IMO.

 

3- Chop barrel to desired length and square up with a file. Polish with a round head brass screw and some Flitz or valve lapping compound chucked in a drill OR Pacific tool makes a 30 Cal. piloted crowning tool for M1's but should work for any .30 w/ a muzzle OD up to 14mm or 15mm.

http://shop.pacifictoolandgauge.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1127

 

The angle of the crown doesn't matter. They just recess it to protect it from the environment and yer cleaning rod tip.

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Since you made up your mind your going to do this at least do it right with no screw ups.

 

Go to www.brownells.com search for item # 080-764-350WB Power Custom Brass Muzzle Crown Lapping tool

 

Lap the muzzle correctly for the best achievable accuracy. My process will to use a coarse valve grinding compound first then once the foundation of the pattern is on the muzzle i will switch to the fine valve grinding compound to finish it. I'm thinkling of using a slow speed drill and go in a circle motion with this tool with the lapping compound on it. I'm a retired machine builder, assembler for the 155mm howiters, lead engineering tech for one of the top ten companies in the country.

 

I just ordered the complete set for all my older military guns if there not accurate to begin with.

 

BTW; Thanks for reminding me i have a barrel to cut down on my grandsons first deer rifle in 7,62x39.

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