cobyb 1 Posted November 9, 2012 Report Share Posted November 9, 2012 My S12 is close to being 100% consistant. It will fte every 5 rounds or so. I decided to remove the gas block. Upon removal, I discovered that i have 4 ports and the gas block was partially covering 2 of the holes. (see pics) I need to remedy this problem. Is it ok to bore the gas block open a bit more to allow flow from the two partially blocked ports? If so, what would be my best approach? Dremel and some fluid? Opinions? Thanks sorry for the crappy pics. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timy 1,185 Posted November 9, 2012 Report Share Posted November 9, 2012 Ouch! One fte every five rounds isn't close at all. Yes, you can dremel the block out and try it again. You can use anything that will get the job done. I wish I could help more but I haven't had any experience with mine. It's a three holer that ate everything before and after conversion so all I've ever done is pull the trigger on mine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nephilim7 107 Posted November 9, 2012 Report Share Posted November 9, 2012 The best way to do this would be to bevel the downward face that would be touching the ports. You can use large bits to accomplish this. The idea is to uncover the ports by reaming a funnel for the gases to enter the gas block. BEWARE!!! You must be very careful not to screw this up. Before you begin, look into the gas block from the plug (adjustment knob) opening. There is a groove machined into the block between the plug opening and port opening. Do NOT cut into this channel for any reason. It is very important that the groove remains untouched. Be careful and check often. Be conservative with it, and you will be fine. Check your port size while you are in there. They should be 0.078" for four port guns (some go a bit larger - up to you). Make sure you match the existing slant of the holes. Let us know how it goes! Oh and be sure your block is perfectly aligned with the op rod of your carrier. Any tilt needs to be addressed. 5 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cobyb 1 Posted November 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2012 Ouch! One fte every five rounds isn't close at all. Yes, you can dremel the block out and try it again. You can use anything that will get the job done. I wish I could help more but I haven't had any experience with mine. It's a three holer that ate everything before and after conversion so all I've ever done is pull the trigger on mine. indeed. 1 out of 5 isnt good at all.. this gun wouldnt shoot more then one round at a time when i first started... i guess im still a long way off.. hopefully this dioscovery will cure my issues... The best way to do this would be to bevel the downward face that would be touching the ports. You can use large bits to accomplish this. The idea is to uncover the ports by reaming a funnel for the gases to enter the gas block. BEWARE!!! You must be very careful not to screw this up. Before you begin, look into the gas block from the plug (adjustment knob) opening. There is a groove machined into the block between the plug opening and port opening. Do NOT cut into this channel for any reason. It is very important that the groove remains untouched. Be careful and check often. Be conservative with it, and you will be fine. Check your port size while you are in there. They should be 0.078" for four port guns (some go a bit larger - up to you). Make sure you match the existing slant of the holes. Let us know how it goes! Oh and be sure your block is perfectly aligned with the op rod of your carrier. Any tilt needs to be addressed. This is exactly what my intensions are... im only gonna remove enough material to fully expose the two patially blocked ports.. i see the grove you speak of and i dont see any reason why i should even come close to grinding on that.. now as far as people going a tad bigger on the ports, what kind of issues could i run into? i have an adjustable gas block from MD and a CSS puck... or should i just start with the gas block and hope it does the trick? I will be certain to post pics of my progress... thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cobyb 1 Posted November 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2012 (edited) ok, well reemed the gas block a bit where it was blocking the ports.. i kind of "chamfered" the gas block, (see pic), with my dremel and a 5/32 sharpening stone, specifically where the ports looked to be blocked.. i also scribed a light index before removal of GB to ensure proper installation.... im going to test fire tomorrow.. if problem persists, should i ream a little bit more? or should i maybe look into drilling my ports to the next size? The gas block removal was relativley easy and simple to do. i've heard a few horror stories related to removal of the gas block, but after 500 rounds, mine was easily removed and installed. whoo hoo! Edited November 16, 2012 by cobyb Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bigchris 31 Posted November 10, 2012 Report Share Posted November 10, 2012 Looks good, as long as the ports are not blocked anymore. And i wouldve probly checked the port size and addressed that as well since you had the gas block off already but thats just my opinion. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cobyb 1 Posted November 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2012 well i think the dremel worked! this morning i shot three md drums worth of winchester #8...after the first five shells and two gas adjustments later, the gun ran flawlessy for the remaining 55 rounds! i was at a gun range so no rapid firing was tested, but hopefully headin to the woods tomorrow with a few more shells to see if quiucker firing will cause any issues. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bigchris 31 Posted November 10, 2012 Report Share Posted November 10, 2012 Kool, glad it worked out for ya! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lord Ak-47 49 Posted November 11, 2012 Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 Fire from the hip and see how it reacts, if it dosent jam then your Saiga is perfect. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cobyb 1 Posted November 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 (edited) i will try hip shootin it next weekend. i took it out to the woods today with 400 shells shared between my buddies ole JC higgins pump and the S12. (prob close to 300 of those shells were fed to the md drum) the first 3 shots stovepiped. after clearing all 3, the 4th round fired fine and the gun never hiccupped again. not sure whats causing the intial hiccup, but im thinking of removing the gas block and measuring the ports like BigChris mentioned earlier. i guess im hoping that maybe one or two of them are smaller then supposed to be.. but if they are all .078, can i go a size up in drill bit and allow the gun to get some more gas? i want to rid this slight hiccup and have a perfect running saiga! sorry for the long winded speech, but heres a quick video link of todays shootin and also a list of mods the gun currently has.. css conversion, g2 trigger, ace skeleton, ati grip, css puc, md gas plug, tromix mini monster, lighter front spring, md drum Edited November 12, 2012 by cobyb Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cobyb 1 Posted November 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 forgot to mention ive been shootin the same 100rd value pack of winchester through out all of testing... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nephilim7 107 Posted November 14, 2012 Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 Looks like you did a great job! Winchester Universal is a great benchmark. If it cycles that stuff from the hip, you have arrived. I would work on eliminating friction before increasing gas. Others will disagree, but I want to minimize battering of the internal parts and excessive fouling. I have heard that it may be best to ad another, smaller port. Smaller ports allow less fouling into the block. Read up before cutting any metal. Keep us posted. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted November 14, 2012 Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 well i think the dremel worked! this morning i shot three md drums worth of winchester #8...after the first five shells and two gas adjustments later, the gun ran flawlessy for the remaining 55 rounds! i was at a gun range so no rapid firing was tested, but hopefully headin to the woods tomorrow with a few more shells to see if quicker firing will cause any issues. Flawless is a good minimum performance requirement 4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
45Bretired 19 Posted November 14, 2012 Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 Looks good but I noticed you put a light spring in it. I'd put the original back in and see how it runs. I'd bet you need a little more gas for it to run with the original spring. Alot of people here are just as against that srping as I am. Hey it's your gun but I really think the lighter spring is a bad idea. I'm guessing evl didn't see that parts list he usually would have said something. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fallschirmjager667 729 Posted November 14, 2012 Report Share Posted November 14, 2012 yep, get rid of the light spring, it shouldn't need that to function Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cobyb 1 Posted November 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2012 i will use all advice given. im gonna have pauly do his magic, but leave it black on top (might also get a vertical handle).. i like the iea of reducung friction... also gonna remove that front spring and re-install the original one...if i still encounter any type of malfunciton, is it then time for me to drill out those damn ports? id rather not, unless it will make the gun function without any hiccups... thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kdog45ak 18 Posted November 16, 2012 Report Share Posted November 16, 2012 I'm having pauly do mine, the hardest part is that I don't wanna mess with anything performance related until I get the bolt back. (i guess ya can't rush art) So ill be workin on my dirt bike until then. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cobyb 1 Posted November 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 ok, so a little update. i removed the gas black again and did a little more porting. i basically just dremeled a "ramp" in the block, right where the gas exits the barrel and through the gas block, before the puck. i pretty much made this ramp the same angle of the gas ports, so nothing should be restricting the gas flow at all. i also removed that lighter spring and re-installed the stock front spring. i cycled 100 rounds through the gun yesterday with zero issues. at this time, i now consider my saiga reliable and wouldnt hesitate to use it as my HD gun if needed. i also updated the look of the gun with a quad rail. (too cheap to pass up). i still plan on taking the bolt to Pauly (2 hour drive for me :-), to have him reduce whatever excess friction the gun may be encountering, but my new rcbs rockchucker and rcbs chargemaster 1500 absorbed the extra funds. so maybe the glassbolt right after the new year.. ;-) Thanks again for the help!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nephilim7 107 Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 Really glad these guys got you straightened out. Sounds like you have done everything very well and you are learning quickly! I understand the depleted wallet. Stock up on mags, and go shoot the fire out of that thing! (pun intended) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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