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What's this AK-74 parts kit missing?


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looks complete to me

 

Lol, but when I put it together and tried to fire it nothing happened!

 

barrel , receiver, rivits and a tapco G2 FCG the FA group is useless for a semi-auto build

 

I could still use the current fcg without any issues, right? And rivets for what? The receiver? Thanks.

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Kenny - replacing the FCG is one of the easiest/cheapest ways to get a few compliance parts. There's really not much point in using foreign FCG parts, unless you already have enough compliance parts and really want to use those factory originals.

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Kenny - replacing the FCG is one of the easiest/cheapest ways to get a few compliance parts. There's really not much point in using foreign FCG parts, unless you already have enough compliance parts and really want to use those factory originals.

 

Understood, the G2 pack is pretty cheap too so I will add that to the list. Thanks.

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Additionally using the rate reducer assembly and auto disconnector in a semi AK is dangerous because you can potentially create a functional MG without the addition of a third axis pin. The difference is that there is no safety sear to prevent it from firing out of battery and blowing up in your face.

 

Enjoy the G2 trigger.

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Sort of hard to tell since the pin would be inside the bolt

On not all, but some, the rear of the pin will extend out the back under spring tension, or just based on how it was placed down. If it didn't extend out of the bolt the hammer could never hit it, that's what I was referring to. It isn't high enough res to be able to see it though. If it functions normally when pieced together and he pulls the trigger and there is absolutely nothing, pin would be my first guess at a missing piece

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With a barrel that was not made with the gun, you will need to headspace the barrel, and use a 7MM endmill to drill the barrel for the barrel stiff (retaining pin).

Do not use SAMMI gauges, you need commy made go/no go gauges.

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Does anyone actually make those?

 

Some builders will pin the barrel as soon as the bolt rotates 1/4 turn on a GO gauge, but does not fully close on the gauge. At this state it should still close on a live or dummy round. This practice was developed after some checked a few Euro factory builds and found that this is where they typically spaced them at.

 

This does suggest that the "commie spec" is different from SAAMI. Frustrating.

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