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Best trigger group for 308?


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Hello all,

 

Looking for advice. I'm getting ready to order conversion parts for a Saiga 308 that I've had for several years but just never got around to converting. I've never done a conversion but feel confident I can pull it off. From what I've read there are some issues to consider with regard to the proper function of the safety and trigger.

 

Does anyone make a trigger group that will not require any modifications to operate with the safety 100% properly?

 

What about the BHO feature? Retain it or go with a Krebs lever?

 

Lastly, what is the best way to do the pistol grip nut? It looks like you can do the one that integrates into the trigger guard or separate.

 

Thanks in advance

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Dinzag sells a modified G2 group. That's what I got. I also did my conversion myself even though this was the first firearm I've ever owned much less worked on. I remember the hardest part for me was getting the BHO spring in position between lever and the receiver wall. Everything else was straight forward but not exactly easy...there's not a lot of room in the trigger area to work. I think a pair of foreceps or extremely thin and small needle nose pliers (same thing) would have helped out the entire trigger conversion process. Once you get it all together, study the spring ends on the trigger and position them and maybe bend the spring gently and in small increments so eventually they rest in the same place on the trigger throughout the range of the trigger pull. That will smooth out the trigger pull. Needless to say I am very satisfied with my Dinzag G2 trigger group.

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Dinzag sells a modified G2 group. That's what I got. I also did my conversion myself even though this was the first firearm I've ever owned much less worked on. I remember the hardest part for me was getting the BHO spring in position between lever and the receiver wall. Everything else was straight forward but not exactly easy...there's not a lot of room in the trigger area to work. I think a pair of foreceps or extremely thin and small needle nose pliers (same thing) would have helped out the entire trigger conversion process. Once you get it all together, study the spring ends on the trigger and position them and maybe bend the spring gently and in small increments so eventually they rest in the same place on the trigger throughout the range of the trigger pull. That will smooth out the trigger pull. Needless to say I am very satisfied with my Dinzag G2 trigger group.

 

Thanks for the reply. I read somewhere on here where a member had to do a little filing on the Dinzag to get the safety to work correctly. I'll see if I can dig up the post. I guess you are going to have to fine tune whatever you get due to slight variances in the production tollerances.

 

Here it is, post #5...

 

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/75925-saiga-308-safety-lever/#entry801162

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I converted mine several months ago, using the Dinzag G2 two stage group. I also had a minor clearance problem with the safety. I found that when I had the lever in the "Fire" position, I couldn't get the lever to move to the "Safe" position. I found the problem was the lever wouldn't clear the back of the trigger body. I carefully filed a small amount of material off the lever body (part that sits inside the receiver), so it would clear the trigger body. I then did some function/safety checks, as I had read the same post about the accidental discharge. I took photos of the binding point, but I don't have them available this morning. It was a simple fix, and I now have a reliable two stage trigger, with a 7 1/4 pound pull (feels much lighter).

 

post-44169-0-72351400-1354708960_thumb.jpg

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I converted mine several months ago, using the Dinzag G2 two stage group. I also had a minor clearance problem with the safety. I found that when I had the lever in the "Fire" position, I couldn't get the lever to move to the "Safe" position. I found the problem was the lever wouldn't clear the back of the trigger body. I carefully filed a small amount of material off the lever body (part that sits inside the receiver), so it would clear the trigger body. I then did some function/safety checks, as I had read the same post about the accidental discharge. I took photos of the binding point, but I don't have them available this morning. It was a simple fix, and I now have a reliable two stage trigger, with a 7 1/4 pound pull (feels much lighter).

 

post-44169-0-72351400-1354708960_thumb.jpg

 

Great info! Thanks.

 

NO matter WHICH trigger group you install... do a binding check with the safety and the rear portion of the trigger body... because ya NEVER KNOW... and it could bind like mine did! trust me... it SUCKS!!!

 

Agreed, thanks!

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Hahaha 7 pounds for a G2?

 

Geez, I just ran down the levels of sand paper on the hook and hammer till I got down to 1500grit, then used white and blue polishing rouge.

 

Mine I don't have a gauge to measure, but it can't be the slightest bit over 2 pounds. It's safe because there's just as much engagement area as there was initially, it just takes no effort to overcome that stage. It feels like a 2 stage trigger but that it's missing the second stage you'd expect to hit, lol.

 

Safety works great, drop testing the gun still shows that there's little to no concern over the ridiculously light trigger, it's not budging unless you pull it.

Edited by Tombs
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Hello

 

I would vote for a Red Star Arms fully adjustable 2-stage (or single stage if you prefer to adjust it that way) FCG.

The VEPR .308 model drops right in and is a magificent unit for the $90.00 or so.

 

JMHO....

 

-guido

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  • 1 month later...
Hello

 

I would vote for a Red Star Arms fully adjustable 2-stage (or single stage if you prefer to adjust it that way) FCG.

The VEPR .308 model drops right in and is a magificent unit for the $90.00 or so.

 

JMHO....

 

-guido

Does the RSA VEPR .308 FCG need the washer to take up space? Is it really a true drop-in with no adjustments?

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I used a Dinzag arsenal trigger, fit was great and worked with BHO lever (which I wanted to retain).

 

Also, for assembly, it helps if you have a narrow, long, needle nose plier (Craftsman's "Professional" high end premium brand makes one that is perfect). I also had a 1" right angle air-powered grinder that takes sandpaper pads which was what I used to grind out spot welds and rivets, was far more effective than a dremel tool.

 

I did mine about 3 weeks ago, also replaced trigger guard with the one dinzag recommends; I like it much more than the factory guard. I did have to grind a small slot in my Kvar stock to make it fit over the top of the bolt head, but that wasnt a big deal.

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I just finished my .308 using the G-2 from Dinzag. I did have to do a bit of filing to make the safety fit, but you never know with these guns from one to the other. I'm pretty sure it has nothing to do with what Brian does, or dosen't do to the parts, I think it's the individual gun (they're stamped, not milled). I also decided to mod the hammer pivot so I could use the original BHO, just kept filing the side of it until everything fit without binding. Brian sales it ready for the BHO for a few dollars more, but I wanted to DIY, and everything works great.

 

That's my .02

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Hello

 

I would vote for a Red Star Arms fully adjustable 2-stage (or single stage if you prefer to adjust it that way) FCG.

The VEPR .308 model drops right in and is a magificent unit for the $90.00 or so.

 

JMHO....

 

-guido

Does the RSA VEPR .308 FCG need the washer to take up space? Is it really a true drop-in with no adjustments?

 

It requires the hammer shaft to be shortened on the BHO side by the thickness of the BHO plate (all FCG's require this at some point, takes about 90 seconds).

You will have to very slightly mod your safety to provide optimim engagement, wait until you have adjusted your FCG before doing that.

You can very easily adjust these to a ultra short, crisp, 2-1/2-3 lb pull with short reset. I usually dial the first stage out and just keep that short second/short reset light single stage. I wish I could get FCG's this good for my AR's without having to spend $250.00.

 

Yeah, the G2's are alright triggers, and they can certainly be modded to be real nice, but until you've fired an AK with a properly set-up RSA FCG you have no idea what you're missing....

 

JMHO....

 

-guido in Houston

"God Loves Liberty"

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  • 2 weeks later...

I got a US made trigger from a tackle box at the fun show. It works just fine. I kept the bolt hold open ground it down. It's a little anoying in the way of the trigger. I like to have the bolt hold lever but I may end up taking it out. I need a lower handguard retainer but hate spending 50 bucks on one. I'm going to try to make one on a CNC machine and if it looks good I'll post it and see if anyone wants to buy one.

 

Oh also with my tapco pistol grip and nut and screw I had to file the nut a good bit to get it to go past the rear truinion it's a metal nut encased in plastic and the plastic was much too big. I had to remove a good bit of the plasic on either Sid and profile the bottom to get it in the pistol grip nut hole.

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I have an FSE on my S308 and IT IS FRICKEN AWESOME! - for a 2 stage, non-adjustable.

Sadly - they are no longer available.

 

Of the ones that are....

 

Dinzag does an AWESOME job on the G2 and have one on my S12

So far - Pretty much everything from Dinzag is "top shelf" at "house brand" prices..

 

A plain G2 is my 3rd choice.

 

Red star make the best of the adjustable triggers, IMHO.

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