Molotov Cocktail 9 Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 I've searched this subject but I have to ask, when purchasing a muzzle brake and it will not line up properly due to the threading, other than purchasing a barrel nut do I HAVE to have the thing re-threaded? Are most muzzle brakes cut to line up properly on the barrel? I am reluctant to pin or weld so I have the option to change muzzle devices. Thoughts? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lbsrdi 1,078 Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 How far off is it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ammohawg 4 Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 Is the barrel or the brake threads cut wrongly ? You don't HAVE to do anything, you could toss it in the junk drawer and buy another style etc.. A pic would help tremendously here, as would a little more detail added to your original questions Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 You don't have to have it re-threaded. You may be able to do it yourself. http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/78137-chop-crown-and-re-thread-a-saiga-barrel-with-no-lathe/ 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric Pate 478 Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 When you say it does not line up properly are you referring to the muzzle device being off-axis (canted) from the bore or are you saying the muzzle device isn't rotated ("clocked") correctly? One of these is an easy fix. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lbsrdi 1,078 Posted December 6, 2012 Report Share Posted December 6, 2012 When you say it does not line up properly are you referring to the muzzle device being off-axis (canted) from the bore or are you saying the muzzle device isn't rotated ("clocked") correctly? One of these is an easy fix. I think he means the latter, that is why I asked how much. My Sharkbreak was not indexed correctly and I thought I needed a barrel nut, tap/die, or loktite/teflon tape. I was wrong. All mine needed was to tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen.....(many times) I was able to index it perfectly and it is rock solid. For the last little bit I used a screwdriver through the 'gills' to twist it the rest of the way. Mine was off only a little bit(about the 10'oclock position). I don't know if this helps the OP but it may help someone else facing a similar problem. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Molotov Cocktail 9 Posted December 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2012 Its a JT Engineering brake and the closed portion is supposed to face straight down when full tightened. The closed, non-ported section tightens to about the 8'o clock position almost an inch off. When you say it does not line up properly are you referring to the muzzle device being off-axis (canted) from the bore or are you saying the muzzle device isn't rotated ("clocked") correctly? One of these is an easy fix. I think he means the latter, that is why I asked how much. My Sharkbreak was not indexed correctly and I thought I needed a barrel nut, tap/die, or loktite/teflon tape. I was wrong. All mine needed was to tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen.....(many times) I was able to index it perfectly and it is rock solid. For the last little bit I used a screwdriver through the 'gills' to twist it the rest of the way. Mine was off only a little bit(about the 10'oclock position). I don't know if this helps the OP but it may help someone else facing a similar problem. Will doing this fuck up my threads either on the brake or my S12? Is the barrel or the brake threads cut wrongly ? You don't HAVE to do anything, you could toss it in the junk drawer and buy another style etc.. A pic would help tremendously here, as would a little more detail added to your original questions I realize that I dont HAVE to do anything, that wasnt what my original post was referring to. I would prefer not to toss a $100 into the junk drawer quite honestly.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ewoketeer 35 Posted December 12, 2012 Report Share Posted December 12, 2012 A barrel nut will effectively solve the problem. With the nut all the way on the threaded section, screw the brake all the way on to contact the nut, then back off until properly aligned, Tighten nut while holding brake in alignment. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Molotov Cocktail 9 Posted December 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2012 I mentioned in my OP that I dont wanna use a barrel nut. I have one already. I was looking for a more permanent solution. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric Pate 478 Posted December 13, 2012 Report Share Posted December 13, 2012 I mentioned in my OP that I dont wanna use a barrel nut. I have one already. I was looking for a more permanent solution. Loktite will do it. Thats what I use. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fast2gnt 16 Posted December 13, 2012 Report Share Posted December 13, 2012 Make sure you use the blue loctite. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Molotov Cocktail 9 Posted December 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2012 Actually if it wont turn all the way I probably should use red loctite Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted December 15, 2012 Report Share Posted December 15, 2012 Actually if it wont turn all the way I probably should use red loctite You will probably need a quality heat gun or torch to get it off if you use red. Just make sure the threads of the barrel and brake are free of lubricant and apply blue to each. Let it cure for a day and it will most likely not budge unless you actually try to remove it. It has worked for me, but I have never owned the brake in question. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Molotov Cocktail 9 Posted December 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2012 Blue it is man. Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
20nickels 21 Posted December 15, 2012 Report Share Posted December 15, 2012 Blue has worked for me so far if it fails I'll use High temp loctite or permatex. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
doodi1 23 Posted December 17, 2012 Report Share Posted December 17, 2012 I used the red Loctite based on Tromix's recommendation. My Shark brake was 90 degrees off when fully tightened on my Saiga 12. I thoroughly cleaned both the threads on the barrel and the brake with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol and I let it dry for six hours. Then applied the red Loctite and properly indexed the Shark Brake (quarter turn or 90 degree loose). Once totally dry after 24 hours it has not moved at all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Big John! 2,062 Posted December 17, 2012 Report Share Posted December 17, 2012 I put a wad of teflon tape on mine and good to go. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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