Granite6 0 Posted December 12, 2012 Report Share Posted December 12, 2012 So I have been learning (lurking?) for awhile and jumped in on my first Saiga conversion. Parts from CSS, videos from them and a ton of learning on this site and off I went. Everything went smooth until the bullet guide. I'm not sure if I lost my mind, the bit walked or if I was off with my center punch. The end result is the tapped hole is too close to the barrel (about 1/16") and I'm looking for some advise. I did some grinding on the bullet guide hole to elongate it, and was able to put the screw in, but the screw head is interfering with the bolt, so no dice. Thoughts on: 1. Using a dremel to elongate the countersunk area of the bullet guide to get the screw to seat properly. Probably will look ugly but may work. 2. Fill hole with JB weld and punch/drill/tap again in the correct location. 3. Grind back of bullet guide to move toward barrel (Probably ruin the geometry necessary to guide the bullet). 4. Have the hole tig/mig welded and ground, and drill/tap properly. I've searched the conversion forum about this, but cannot find this scenario. Anyone have this issue before? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sjglaw 1 Posted December 12, 2012 Report Share Posted December 12, 2012 #2 if you can avoid drilling and taping through the JB weld. If you can't may or may not work #3 will also work, but unless you have a welder and can weld, you will probably have to pay someone to do it #3 will probably screw up the geometry #1 not sure if it will work the first #3 shoud be a #4 sorry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
saiga545 47 Posted December 12, 2012 Report Share Posted December 12, 2012 This happened to me too. Grind the screw head around the edges to make it more narrow and it should seat all the way. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Granite6 0 Posted December 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2012 Thanks for the quick replies. Here is one other scenario I thought of last night while staring at the ceiling. Use a 6-32 grub screw with JB weld to "fill" the existing hole, and then drill/tap the new location. The screw will be stronger than just JB weld, my only concern would be if the grub screw is signifantly harder than the surrounding metal it might cause an issue with tapping. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sjglaw 1 Posted December 12, 2012 Report Share Posted December 12, 2012 On the grind the screw head, yeah that will work Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Shankspony 40 Posted December 12, 2012 Report Share Posted December 12, 2012 I was of a little to the side so the screw head wouldn't seat as far as expected. I wound up planing the BG so the screw head would seat as expected. I imagine if you elongate the hole in the BG you should be able to make it work fine. The carrier will let you know if you're not seated far enough. If that turns out to be the case, plane the BG a little and or the screw head a little. You can do it without a crap load of work. Remember your loctite when doing a final seat. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulry 50 Posted December 13, 2012 Report Share Posted December 13, 2012 (edited) I had this on my first one, grinding the countersink (but might need to do the hole a little bit) will work. Well, it did for me! Just some Hobo advice, normally it is the center punch that is not deep enough (which allows the bit to walk) or the center punch is not centered (this is what happened to me!). So I did the JB weld, then center punched (so it would not move on me) then drilled and tapped, Presto!! Just don't use to much JB. I took the screw out and ran with the JB weld to see if that would hold and am happy to report, NO Problem!! This was years ago! Still holding fine. Edited December 13, 2012 by Fluid Power Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thebuns1 4,323 Posted December 13, 2012 Report Share Posted December 13, 2012 I doubt you'll mess it up to where it wont work. Avoid JB weld and retapping. Use the current hole you have already made, and do as described in other posts. Just elongate the hole in the guide, and recess the guide itself for the screw head to clear the bolt when it rotates into battery. Should work fine. Or you could look for a screw with the same threads, but a smaller head. Your option. Just try not to let this bother you that much, and dont be concerned about it not working. As long as the guide is centered good in front of the chamber you should be fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Granite6 0 Posted December 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2012 I'd just like to say thanks again to everyone. A bit of grinding on the bullet guide countersunk portion and I chucked up the screw in a drill and using a file I took some off the diameter. Everyting settled in well, and a bit of blue loctite finished the job off. She is feeding and ejecting perfectly, so now it is time for a range visit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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