Turbo.M777 11 Posted January 10, 2013 Report Share Posted January 10, 2013 I'm thinking about getting my receiver duracoated either white, or an arctic camo of some kind. I'm moving to antarctica so I think it would be a great idea. Or maybe I just want to do it cause it would look badass. I would leave my stock, grips, quad rail, and barrel black. I'm concerned that a matte white may be hard to keep relatively clean, I also don't know how durable it would actually be. Anyone have any experience in this stuff? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
misterT 174 Posted January 10, 2013 Report Share Posted January 10, 2013 If you do a search you will find plenty of info, I have read a few and it seems they recomended soda blasting the surfaces to be refinished and it seems like they said that the duracoat is a real PITA to do at home one off. You might want to take it to someone who specializes in that sort of thing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
super jim 14 Posted January 10, 2013 Report Share Posted January 10, 2013 (edited) Edited January 11, 2013 by super jim 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Turbo.M777 11 Posted January 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2013 Those are some fine looking machines! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akastormi 617 Posted January 10, 2013 Report Share Posted January 10, 2013 I like Duracoat... I'm a fan of it. I've painted alot of it on everything. Duracoat is easy to apply.... easy. Air dry or bake it. I bake the parts in the kitchen oven, it doesn't stink like other finishes when baking. When done correct it's hard and easy to clean/wipe down. The color white or any other doesnt get the grimy. I can't express prep prep and prep before paint. Bead blast, sand blast, scuff it with a scotchbrite, the more prep you put into it the better the finish will come out. When you think it's clean enough to paint...... clean it again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Odd Man Out 1,283 Posted January 10, 2013 Report Share Posted January 10, 2013 I've used duracoat for 2 S12's. I had excellent results. You need to make sure all surfaces are clean. I used the spray can application you can get. I'd do it again in a heartbeat. The finish seems very durable. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
theorangeplanet 968 Posted January 10, 2013 Report Share Posted January 10, 2013 Moving to Antarctica? WTF? 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Turbo.M777 11 Posted January 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2013 (edited) Moving to Antarctica? WTF? Haha I was kidding. Arctic Camo for me would serve very little purpose other than looking cool and if I did need to use my saiga in a "real life" situation someday where its color mattered, I'd probably be okay spraying some rust olem green or black over it . Edited January 10, 2013 by Turbo.M777 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mman 0 Posted January 10, 2013 Report Share Posted January 10, 2013 Duracoat is not all that hard. Especially if you have ever done any small scale powder coating. Pretty much the same.... Prep, paint. bake. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Odd Man Out 1,283 Posted January 10, 2013 Report Share Posted January 10, 2013 Never needed to bake mine... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TIMTIMTIM 57 Posted January 11, 2013 Report Share Posted January 11, 2013 I have heard duracoat isnt always the best. I ended up using moly-resin and have been very happy with it. It likes oil and holds. Which helps avoid rust. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
and then some 0 Posted January 11, 2013 Report Share Posted January 11, 2013 Have not used any of the bake on,the ez spray kit with one extra color was 75 bucks, very pleased with results and was enought to do s12 and an 870 in two tone. Will scratch for couple weeks,after that what would have scratched it will only scuff it. Highly recomend to let cure before reassembly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaniel 7 Posted January 11, 2013 Report Share Posted January 11, 2013 Duracoating using the single use spray cans is simple. The factory finish is cheap, make sure you get it all off. The supplied stripper takes it off pretty well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Turbo.M777 11 Posted January 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2013 Who is a reputable vendor to buy the stuff from? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunman1 1,753 Posted January 11, 2013 Report Share Posted January 11, 2013 Has anyone tried Por15, that's some of the hardest paint I've seen. I used it to refinish most of the parts for my old Corvette, they have a fair selection of colors. http://www.por15.com/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akastormi 617 Posted January 11, 2013 Report Share Posted January 11, 2013 Who is a reputable vendor to buy the stuff from? Vendor?????????? Why middle man in? Deal with the manufacturer; http://lauerweaponry.com/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Odd Man Out 1,283 Posted January 11, 2013 Report Share Posted January 11, 2013 +1 ^^^ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rs51085 136 Posted January 11, 2013 Report Share Posted January 11, 2013 (edited) I like Duracoat... I'm a fan of it. I've painted alot of it on everything. Duracoat is easy to apply.... easy. Air dry or bake it. I bake the parts in the kitchen oven, it doesn't stink like other finishes when baking.When done correct it's hard and easy to clean/wipe down. The color white or any other doesnt get the grimy. I can't express prep prep and prep before paint. Bead blast, sand blast, scuff it with a scotchbrite, the more prep you put into it the better the finish will come out. When you think it's clean enough to paint...... clean it again. I just checked out their site and am a little confused. which systems are you referring to. I see there duracoat line and then I see their duraheat line. they have a video for the shake and spray kit they sell for 35 bucks and it does not mention baking it afterwards. so do you just bake the duraheat coating or can you bake the regular line of duracoat as well? which one is the better of the two, or am I missing something. Edited January 11, 2013 by rogers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Odd Man Out 1,283 Posted January 11, 2013 Report Share Posted January 11, 2013 (edited) There is stuff called "DuraBake" that you cure in the oven after you spray it on -- the regular stuff does not need baking. Edited January 11, 2013 by Odd Man Out Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rs51085 136 Posted January 11, 2013 Report Share Posted January 11, 2013 so "durabake" is the one to get. didn't see that, thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
saltydecimator 482 Posted January 11, 2013 Report Share Posted January 11, 2013 no love for cera kote? anyone tried a burnt bronze s12? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Turbo.M777 11 Posted January 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2013 Who is a reputable vendor to buy the stuff from? Vendor?????????? Why middle man in? Deal with the manufacturer; http://lauerweaponry.com/ I like that idea! I wasn't aware who the actual makers of the stuff were. Is the duracoat you bake better? I would assume it is since theres an extra step in its application... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akastormi 617 Posted January 11, 2013 Report Share Posted January 11, 2013 I don't go for the shake n bake.... LOL I enjoy camo paint jobs. the standard paints are all i go with. I do however have a compressor and paint guns also so... You don't need to bake the Duracoat, it will air cure over night. I do the baking part to speed the cure so I can continue onto the next color in a camo pattern. The instruction you get with the Duracoat are very good. How to mix, apply, finish......... Thier Trustrip cleaner is EXCELLENT, I get a can with every order. Whatever product you go with I can not express the need for the prep work enough. the better the prep the better the finish.Not just at the begining, but through out the project. Latex gloves are cheap.... Shooting the last color on a paint job that you got 40 hours into and seeing the paint smear on a oily fingerprint...... augh! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
philip271 7 Posted January 12, 2013 Report Share Posted January 12, 2013 (edited) I'd suggest looking at Moly Resin. It's much more durable than paint or duracoat. You may have heard of Cerakote, IMO, Moly Resin is even better. Unfortunately for Moly Resin, Cerakote probably spends 100X in marketing materials/website. I've used it on my Saiga 7.62x39 receiver. It does require baking which I did in my oven but I love the finished result! Here's the link: http://www.johnnorrellarms.com/ Phil. Edited January 12, 2013 by philip271 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akastormi 617 Posted January 12, 2013 Report Share Posted January 12, 2013 Phil. I do like Moly coatings.... Results are great. Only issue with me is the plastics, stocks, pistol grips.... things that can't handle a high heat bake. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rs51085 136 Posted January 12, 2013 Report Share Posted January 12, 2013 It looks like moly resin may be a little cheaper as well since it does not require any hardeners, reducers, or thinners and also includes free shipping. Especially if you were going to do 5 or 6 guns, the quart they sell for $65 is looking pretty good! Which moly resin would be the better looking, semi gloss or flat black? 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lelandeod 179 Posted January 12, 2013 Report Share Posted January 12, 2013 Just make sure you sandblast the factory finish off, degrease real good and you'll be set. I usually parkerize the bare steel then apply the Duracoat over it and it gives excellent results and corrosion prevention. Good luck! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
saltydecimator 482 Posted January 12, 2013 Report Share Posted January 12, 2013 Here's the link: http://www.johnnorrellarms.com/ Phil. lolz, i am having john norrel bacon for b fast, does that count? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TIMTIMTIM 57 Posted January 12, 2013 Report Share Posted January 12, 2013 Molu resin has plastic paint also. I did flat od green on my saiga and flat black on the stock and brake. I will post a pic today if you would like. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Turbo.M777 11 Posted January 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2013 Lots of good info here. Thanks guys. Its gonna be a couple paychecks down the road, but once I get it done I'll post pics Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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