Jump to content

Anyone ever Painted/Duracoated their receiver?


Recommended Posts

I'm thinking about getting my receiver duracoated either white, or an arctic camo of some kind. I'm moving to antarctica so I think it would be a great idea.

Or maybe I just want to do it cause it would look badass. I would leave my stock, grips, quad rail, and barrel black. I'm concerned that a matte white may be hard to keep relatively clean, I also don't know how durable it would actually be.

 

Anyone have any experience in this stuff?

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you do a search you will find plenty of info, I have read a few and it seems they recomended soda blasting the surfaces to be refinished and it seems like they said that the duracoat is a real PITA to do at home one off. You might want to take it to someone who specializes in that sort of thing.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I like Duracoat... I'm a fan of it. I've painted alot of it on everything. Duracoat is easy to apply.... easy. Air dry or bake it. I bake the parts in the kitchen oven, it doesn't stink like other finishes when baking.

When done correct it's hard and easy to clean/wipe down. The color white or any other doesnt get the grimy.

I can't express prep prep and prep before paint. Bead blast, sand blast, scuff it with a scotchbrite, the more prep you put into it the better the finish will come out. When you think it's clean enough to paint...... clean it again.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Moving to Antarctica? WTF?

 

Haha I was kidding. Arctic Camo for me would serve very little purpose other than looking cool smile.png and if I did need to use my saiga in a "real life" situation someday where its color mattered, I'd probably be okay spraying some rust olem green or black over it .

Edited by Turbo.M777
Link to post
Share on other sites
I like Duracoat... I'm a fan of it. I've painted alot of it on everything. Duracoat is easy to apply.... easy. Air dry or bake it. I bake the parts in the kitchen oven, it doesn't stink like other finishes when baking.

When done correct it's hard and easy to clean/wipe down. The color white or any other doesnt get the grimy.

I can't express prep prep and prep before paint. Bead blast, sand blast, scuff it with a scotchbrite, the more prep you put into it the better the finish will come out. When you think it's clean enough to paint...... clean it again.

 

 

I just checked out their site and am a little confused. which systems are you referring to. I see there duracoat line and then I see their duraheat line. they have a video for the shake and spray kit they sell for 35 bucks and it does not mention baking it afterwards. so do you just bake the duraheat coating or can you bake the regular line of duracoat as well? which one is the better of the two, or am I missing something.

Edited by rogers
Link to post
Share on other sites
Who is a reputable vendor to buy the stuff from?

 

Vendor??????????

Why middle man in?

Deal with the manufacturer;

 

http://lauerweaponry.com/

I like that idea! I wasn't aware who the actual makers of the stuff were. Is the duracoat you bake better? I would assume it is since theres an extra step in its application...

Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't go for the shake n bake.... LOL

I enjoy camo paint jobs.

the standard paints are all i go with. I do however have a compressor and paint guns also so...

You don't need to bake the Duracoat, it will air cure over night. I do the baking part to speed the cure so I can continue onto the next color in a camo pattern.

The instruction you get with the Duracoat are very good. How to mix, apply, finish.........

Thier Trustrip cleaner is EXCELLENT, I get a can with every order.

Whatever product you go with I can not express the need for the prep work enough. the better the prep the better the finish.Not just at the begining, but through out the project. Latex gloves are cheap.... Shooting the last color on a paint job that you got 40 hours into and seeing the paint smear on a oily fingerprint...... augh!

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd suggest looking at Moly Resin. It's much more durable than paint or duracoat. You may have heard of Cerakote, IMO, Moly Resin is even better. Unfortunately for Moly Resin, Cerakote probably spends 100X in marketing materials/website.

 

I've used it on my Saiga 7.62x39 receiver. It does require baking which I did in my oven but I love the finished result!

 

Here's the link: http://www.johnnorrellarms.com/

 

Phil.

Edited by philip271
Link to post
Share on other sites

It looks like moly resin may be a little cheaper as well since it does not require any hardeners, reducers, or thinners and also includes free shipping. Especially if you were going to do 5 or 6 guns, the quart they sell for $65 is looking pretty good! Which moly resin would be the better looking, semi gloss or flat black?

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Just make sure you sandblast the factory finish off, degrease real good and you'll be set. I usually parkerize the bare steel then apply the Duracoat over it and it gives excellent results and corrosion prevention.

 

Good luck!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Chatbox

    Load More
    You don't have permission to chat.
×
×
  • Create New...