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Problem cycling 3 inch shells


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Finally got out yesterday to shoot my brand new just converted saiga 12. I also installed the low brass reliability kit and V plug. I had a variety of shells to try and everything cycled great except the 3 inch 00 buck shell. I was using the stock 5 rd mag. It seemed as if they weren't even cycling the bolt at all. Had the v plug on setting one per the instructions. Anyone else have issues with the 3 inch shells? The 2 3/4 inch 00 cycled great.

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Ya maybe I'll put the heavier spring back in and see how that works with the v plug. What type of damage could I have caused from firing the heavy loads? All in all I only fired 5 of the 3 in 00 buck and 5 of the 2 3/4 00. The rest was target loads. What kind of damage should I look for now. Im kinda worried.

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It could cause the bolt carrier to slam into the rear trunnion harder than it should. Your probably okay though. The v-plugs settings limit how much gas flow is applied to the gas puck. But I'm not a fan of those bandaid kits. If your gun can't cycle bulk low brass from Walmart, then fix the root of the problem such as adjusting the size of the gas ports and/or removing friction from the bolt carrier and hammer where they come into contact along with the rails the bolt slides on

Edited by sapper1371usmc
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If you only fired that many you should be ok. You have to watch for impact to the back of the trunion and cracks in the op rod. There are many threads on this. Do some reading. You should be able to fire high power shells without the low brass reliability kit. Do as Sapper says and adjust the v plug as needed. That's what it is for.

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So I think I figured out why the Magnums wouldn't cycle. My dumbass was looking at the settings on the v plug wrong. What I thought was setting one was actually the setting below one which has no notch and lets no gas in to cycle the action. I'll get this thing figured out sooner or later... Still going to go back to all stock parts when I shoot next and see what happens.

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Sounds right to me.

 

Be sure and wright down what cycles at which setting. That way you get your base line and can track changes as you swap parts. You will learn a lot this way. Be methodical and change one thing at a time. Take detailed pics of any problems if they arise. It's very difficult to diagnose a gun over the Internet, but clear pictures help a great deal. There are a lot of guys on the forum that are happy to help. You are doing well to listen to the likes of EVLBLKWPNZ. Learn to discern who is an idiot (yours truly) and who has been around and knows their stuff.

 

Please promise not to use anything but factory springs in the gun unless it is dedicated to only bird shot!

 

Sounds like you have a great gun. Let us know how it goes!

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Thanks Neph. I don't know it all, by far, but if I know nothing else at all.... I know how to make these guns run. I think it needs to be made fully clear that everything you need to make a Saiga 12 run well is already there. No additional parts necessary. Like a sculptor that chisels away the parts that do not look like a statue, you have to remove the material that does not look like a good running Saiga 12. You could leave me alone in a room with nothing but the necessary basic tools and a Saiga 12, and it will run anything except non lethal and low recoil loads when I am done, factory everything and unmodified factory springs. Keep it simple....

Edited by evlblkwpnz
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