sean8642 77 Posted January 17, 2013 Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 (edited) Using the factory spring on a RSA FCG and everytime I go to load the spring and hog tie it at the face of the hammer (per the CSS video), the part of the spring that goes over the back slides off the back and wedges itself on the side. Is there a way to tie the back of the spring on to keep it from slipping? Edited January 17, 2013 by sean8642 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sean8642 77 Posted January 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 I may be wrapping the spring wrong in that pic, does this look correct? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dad2142Dad 6,559 Posted January 17, 2013 Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 2nd one is correct 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nemo61066 10 Posted January 17, 2013 Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 Yes spring in second pix is correct. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sean8642 77 Posted January 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 The axis pin doesn't want to seat all the way now, wiggled the hell out of the hammer and BHO, just won't go that last little bit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
M49907 3 Posted January 17, 2013 Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 Are u using a punch in the opposite side to line the BHO up with the holes? I had the same problem installing my hammer and spring. It seemed like the factory spring was just to big. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sean8642 77 Posted January 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 Are u using a punch in the opposite side to line the BHO up with the holes? I had the same problem installing my hammer and spring. It seemed like the factory spring was just to big. Yeah, the punch kind of work, but it's off the tiniest hair so it just won't budge. 30 minutes of messing with this dang pin, I'm giving up on it for now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nephilim7 107 Posted January 17, 2013 Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 Guess you ruined your gun... I'll pay you $600 for it. Mine is a Tapco hammer, but it is really tight and must be wiggled for a while while pushing on pin. It's a finesse thing. Keep trying and push in the direction the pin needs to move. A twisting motion works for me if I recall... Once it's on, hold it in place until it is locked in. Stinks when it falls out right after it's in... Good luck! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dad2142Dad 6,559 Posted January 17, 2013 Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 Look under the pin head when your pushing into the receiver. There is a shoulder for the lock plate or shepherds hook locks on to. This maybe catching, wiggle the pin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sean8642 77 Posted January 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 (edited) It's JUST out, ughhhh Look under the pin head when your pushing into the receiver. There is a shoulder for the lock plate or shepherds hook locks on to. This maybe catching, wiggle the pin. I'm actually past that little shoulder. Edited January 17, 2013 by sean8642 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sean8642 77 Posted January 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 it fits through just fine without the hammer, so at least i know it's possible, but it just won't budge that 1mm with in there Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vulcan16 971 Posted January 17, 2013 Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 (edited) . Edited January 17, 2013 by Jetmech Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sean8642 77 Posted January 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 I wonder if the RSA hammer needs to be ground down a little on the side where the axis pin goes through, it's all the way against the BHO and it seems real close to the other side, maybe that shoulder is hitting the side? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Garys4598 1,065 Posted January 17, 2013 Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 (edited) I wonder if the RSA hammer needs to be ground down a little on the side where the axis pin goes through, it's all the way against the BHO and it seems real close to the other side, maybe that shoulder is hitting the side? My guess would be that your assessment is correct. The little bit of metal thickness of the BHO lever can make a big difference as to how the hammer fits. When installing my JARD Trigger System, I needed to ever-so-slightly shorten (file down) the right side hammer pin sleeve in order to accommodate the thickness of the BHO lever. But this is all a guess on my part. . . not gospel. Good luck! Edited January 17, 2013 by Gary 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sean8642 77 Posted January 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 I wonder if the RSA hammer needs to be ground down a little on the side where the axis pin goes through, it's all the way against the BHO and it seems real close to the other side, maybe that shoulder is hitting the side? My guess would be that your assessment is correct. The little bit of metal thickness of the BHO lever can make a big difference as to how the hammer fits. When installing my JARD Trigger System, I needed to ever-so-slightly shorten (file down) the right side hammer pin sleeve in order to accommodate the thickness of the BHO lever. But this is all a guess on my part. . . not gospel. Good luck! Thanks, I will take it all apart again and try this (will compare to stock one). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sean8642 77 Posted January 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 So it is too thick, next question would be, where to take away metal, BHO, flat side of hammer, or shoulder side of hammer. I'd assume shoulder side would be bad because the recess area can't be taken down anymore without screwing up the recess. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dad2142Dad 6,559 Posted January 18, 2013 Report Share Posted January 18, 2013 BHO side Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunman1 1,753 Posted January 18, 2013 Report Share Posted January 18, 2013 BHO side ^^^^Same thing I had to do. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sean8642 77 Posted January 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2013 Is it ok to take that much off the safety? Looks about a 1cm by .5cm chunk won't even allow it to go down. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dad2142Dad 6,559 Posted January 18, 2013 Report Share Posted January 18, 2013 No don't take any off off the safety. Take the trigger out and put in the safety, then put the trigger back in. On the G2, you can pull the trigger back, but the RSA does not look like there is enough room. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sean8642 77 Posted January 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2013 No don't take any off off the safety. Take the trigger out and put in the safety, then put the trigger back in. On the G2, you can pull the trigger back, but the RSA does not look like there is enough room. It has adjustment screws, maybe if I back those out? I don't see how it's possible to put the safety in before, I have the plate, so then it would interfere with putting the trigger axis pin back in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dad2142Dad 6,559 Posted January 18, 2013 Report Share Posted January 18, 2013 (edited) Yep your right Try pulling the trigger all the way back, see if you have room for the safety to swing down. You should have some play with the safety if you pull it out a little. Edited January 18, 2013 by Dad2142Dad Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sean8642 77 Posted January 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2013 (edited) Read this from google on random forum. "I got a Red Star on my SA M-7 and to be able to adjust it is cool, but it may require some removal of material from the safety tab." I don't know, let me read the 3 pages of stereo instructions from RSA Edited January 18, 2013 by sean8642 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dad2142Dad 6,559 Posted January 18, 2013 Report Share Posted January 18, 2013 Ok, so when you pull the trigger all the way back like your shooting, there is not enough room to swing the safety down? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sean8642 77 Posted January 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2013 No, there is about 2mm too much on the safety. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dad2142Dad 6,559 Posted January 18, 2013 Report Share Posted January 18, 2013 (edited) Ok just sent you a PM, is that the manual your using? Bottom of page 2 starts with the safety fitting after you test fire. Then you either take some off the safety or the top of the trigger. Edited January 18, 2013 by Dad2142Dad Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sean8642 77 Posted January 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2013 It also says if it won't go down, remove the trigger and install the safety first, which I still don't see how is possible. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dad2142Dad 6,559 Posted January 18, 2013 Report Share Posted January 18, 2013 When you pull the safety out about halfway you can get it angled inside the receiver. Do that with the safety lever down and in back of the trigger. Put the trigger back in, straighten up the safety and put it through the lockplate. Kind of hard to explain. PS it's bedtime for me. If ya don't get it, hopefully a smart person will come along Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sean8642 77 Posted January 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2013 Thanks for the help! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sean8642 77 Posted January 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2013 No clue what I did but I got it. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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