surefire mags gun wont eject low brass ? why

[jake666 0]

i can shoot low brass . fedral or super speed winnchester with very few FTE on the 5 round mags or my promag 10 round but it FTE allmost everytime with the 3 surefire mags ? loaded up some nitro mags 3inch and cycled evrytime and man did it kick the shells out . i know with the FTE i rarely get with the other mags im pushing lower limit of pressure it need to cycle fully and the shells just dribble out . but why is the surefire 12 rounders makeing it so worse > the rounds seem to fit well and unload well out of the mags no real sticking as they slid through . i need to get my reloader running again and just load up some better rounds . or start messing with the gas system to cycle the lower power rounds .but i have read so many diffrent ideas and ways to help the FTE issue . my gas ports are clear and iv did some file work on the hammer, slides and the rails cycles smoother for sure .. i really dont want to spend a ton buying high brass to just go blasting with and my guns fairly new so its not broken in yet . whats the best sugestions to get the low brass cycling . im thinking of trying the v plug first

[Big John! 2,062]

None of the plugs will fix an under gassed gun. If you're getting any FTE's with the other mags, then the gun needs work. If you've already smoothed the hammer and the rails, then the gas block is the next step.

[evlblkwpnz 3,418]

If rounds are feeding into the chamber, then the mag (feeding device) is doing its job.

 

+1 on what Big John said.

[Run and Gun 25]

Hold the gun tighter against your shoulder or fire the gun with the buttstock against something solid and see if you still get FTEs.

[12gaugepitbull 0]

+1 run and gun. that was my issue. glad i got it straight before spending big bucks tracing an issue that wasnt the guns fault

[Big John! 2,062]

My gun doesnt' have to be held against a brick wall to fire garbage rounds. I can hipfire with no problems. This is only a band aid, IMO...

[jake666 0]

Yeah I'm Gona run a few hundred more rounds through it first before I tear into the gas ports . Looks like I have a 3 hole and there all unshrouded so if after I know it's broke in fully there's still a issue I'll work them . I'm Gona reload some better shells so they work the action like its susposed to .any one here do reloading and have a good recipe they would like to give me ?? I'm lookn and with my red dot and caseings and wads running 19.5 grains of powder with a 1 1/8 shot I'll get about 10400 of psi . Should be enough to cycle it good

[Big John! 2,062]

After reading many horror stories of people having a fit getting the gas block off, I put drilling the ports off as well and spent time, gas, and money into shells only to come home pissed. Finally pissed enough to listen to the advice the guru's here gave me but I chose to ignore because I was skeered. My gas block came off easy. I only used the punch looking thing in the cleaning kit to get the pins out. Then smacked the threaded boss that holds the hand guard with a chisel and it pretty much came right off.

 

To all of you (and it seems that there are many right now) that are having FTE's, go after that damn gas block, drill the ports, and save yourself a bunch of money and headaches. It was the best thing I ever did to my gun. I'm going to add left and right side charging handles. If the extra weight causes the slightest malfunction, I'll be going after the ports in a heartbeat.

 

I suspect that some see the drill sizes eg: .076, .093, etc… and think that this is some kind of advanced machine work. It is NOT. There are drill bit conversions on the web, and if you don't have the correct bit, you can get a full set with these increments at harbor freight. Remember, you're only opening the ports in small increments, so you don't need a cobalt bit to do the job. You can use cheap shit bits with nothing more than a little care to run it in at the same angle and not break the bit.

 

If you follow the many threads on under gassed guns that have been posted even in the last couple of weeks ( you shouldn't have to go past page 3) you can get all the info you need to successfully make your gun run reliably without 20 trips to the range and 5000 rounds of ammo.

 

On a side note… For those that are having trouble getting their block off. I had a thought the other day about using a heat gun to get the block good and warm, yet not hot enough to screw up the finish and then go after it??? I don't think it would take much expansion to make a big difference in the ease of getting it off. Warming the block should aid in getting the pins out as well. When I put mine together I smeared anti seize on the barrel so that future removal should be easy.

[Captken 6]

Its going to be hard to isolate the heat to only the collar when mounted on the barrels but would work well when reinstalling. If there was a way to chill the barrel and gas block, it would be real easy.

[Nephilim7 107]

The block can be essentially isolated by wrapping a towel on either side of it as a shield for the barrel. The trick is to heat as quickly as possibly to keep the heat from soaking to the barrel much.

 

That being said, I suggest as much reduction of cycling resistance as absolutely possible (sand rails and profile hammer and bolt) before cutting on the ports.