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Russian Red die


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I've used red RIT dry powder cut with mineral spirits

You have to run mixture through a coffee filter to catch the sodium crystals that catalyzes out of the solution.

Then I paint it on, let it dry, and repeat for desired shade.

Then I sealed it with tung oil, but you can use whatever you prefer.

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Edited by armory
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Check Ironwood's website. They used to have a recipe for it. The recipe disappeared for a while but maybe it is back up now.

 

Ironwood Designs is now in cahoots with Comblock Customs who does the finish work. Here's an image of their Combloc Red...

 

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This is all off their website...

 

"Shellac Finish Durability - Your set will be dry/cured to the touch when you receive it and you can install it right away. However, we recommend that you wait at least an additional 3-4 weeks before firing your rifle with your new furniture. Shellac cures over time and the longer it cures, the harder it gets. When shooting your rifle with shellac finished furniture, (military surplus furniture in particular) the intense heat from the barrel can cause the finish on the handguards to blister or bubble. This is a common occurrence, due to the nature of shellac. We want our customers to know this before they purchase one of our shellac finished sets. If you look at photos of older, well used AK’s, you can see how the finish wears. With normal use, you can expect this same type of wear, which will give your rifle that authentic “battlefield” look."

 

Is there anyone who has done a similar finish on their own? I personally am so impressed I might be having them do my furniture when the time comes.

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That was a good read. I wonder if Pauly's method of finishing with a polyurethane varnish would be more durable then the shellac used by Combloc? I liked the results. How stupid-proof is this to do yourself? My concerns are applying the coats evenly and at the correct thickness. I am considering doing this. I can't argue with the savings and it doesn't seem that difficult to do.

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Ive used shellac on some AK models; plain, yellow, or tint added - also depending upon the type of wood & original look of a particular country's AK.

 

Straight teak oil looks beautitul on Yugo teak (or equivalent wood)

Straight tung oil on blonde bulgarian wood is nice

 

Rit dye method is great for creating iridescent appearance on laminate woods. I often apply a few coats of straight yellow and/or straight orange to certain sections initially, then come back with the red to hilite some darker layers of laminate. Layers of tung to finish - steel wool before each coat.

 

I havent tried the method with pine tar - probably try that next.

 

Just give it whirl and have fun

 

Harv

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The cheapest and closest way to get close to the original Soviet color is an iodine stain followed by application of amber shellac. Brushing or sponging shellac can be a PITA but I've done a few applications using an HVLP sprayer - just make sure to keep the nozzle clean with denatured alcohol, or it will gum up.

 

Having the right wood helps of course. Most of the Soviet laminate was a birch laminate as far as I know.

 

I personally would choose a different type of finish if I was using something other than laminate. The whole "Russian red" thing is pretty much best left to laminate wood IMO. Solid woods tend to look hokey in this color.

Edited by mancat
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