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Help with .308 conv.- Experts wanted!


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I have a saiga .308 I want to covert but wanted to know the easiest way to move the trigger guard? Its an 07 model, looks like two rivets and two spot welds. Any help? The hole for pistol grip nut is slotted for the old trigger. How do I fill that slot or reinforce it? I need some expert help. Any other considerations for this trigger replacement?

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You can drill out the welds (the two holding the plate on) or grind them off then use a chisel or wedge to pry that plate off. Then you can use the same technique to remove the trigger guard from the plate. You don't need to reinforce the pg hole, it's plenty strong even with the slot.

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Just get after it with the tools you have. I used a drill press to drill out the rivets , not that other ways are any better or worse. Even if you leave some open holes, it will work perfectly. You tube is a great resource if you want a step by step.

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I drilled the center of the rivets then used an old flat head to hammer the heads off. Then used a dremel to grind the spot welds down enough to pry the plate off. Its simple. Then Isis the same with the old trigger guard. Then I used Emory cloth to rough up the parts of the trigger guard where they would meet the receiver and used JB weld to attach it. It sandwiched between the pistol grip and the mag release and I've fired it 150+ rounds and it's been fine like that. Also the tapco pistol grip nut had to be made a lot smaller cause it would not go in. All I can say is just do it. I'm waiting on a lower handguard retainer from Dinzag now. Then I'm going to start the HK sights and either an up turned charging handle or I'm going to try to design a non-recoprating handle on the gas tube with a notch to lock the bolt open for mag changes alaMP5.

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Go to Dinzag Arms (link http://www.dinzagarms.com/downloads/saiga-308_conversion_tips.pdf ) for help and parts. The instructions for the 308 conversion weren't quite accurate for mine; might have been for an older model. Follow the posted photos; I did this on a new 308 16' model; summer of 2012. Take your time. The bottom right hand set of photos show the finished project.

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I started and finished my s308 conversion this past weekend and i i used a dremel tool with the metal grinding wheel for 90% of getting the plate off. I had two rivets and one tack weld to get through. When i got close to getting the plate off of the spot weld i wiggled it back and forth till it broke in two pieces. I wasnt reusing the guard so i cut that in half to better get access with the dremel. Dinzags instructions + a little youtube references and in about 6hrs over a span of two days i got it together. El Cabron thats a damn good pictorial. The tutorial i used didnt have pics just came with the trigger group n guard. Woulda been handy lolol

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LuPiN8oR,

Glad you liked the photos. Like I said above, the info for 308 conversion, from Dinzag, was helpful but wasn't completely accurate (showed rivets that weren't there, etc) so I figured it would be a good idea to document the process.

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Go to Dinzag Arms (link http://www.dinzagarms.com/downloads/saiga-308_conversion_tips.pdf ) for help and parts. The instructions for the 308 conversion weren't quite accurate for mine; might have been for an older model. Follow the posted photos; I did this on a new 308 16' model; summer of 2012. Take your time. The bottom right hand set of photos show the finished project.

I like that front grip, where did you get it?

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LuPiN8oR,

Thats correct. The adjustable butstock is also Tapco. I got all my conversion parts, and information, from Dinzag. Great resource, very reasonable prices, and every thing fit great.

The bipod, however, isn't from Tapco. It's an M2 bipod from an M14E2 rifle, a parting gift from that popular Far East vacation spa where I was a guest for some time. It still has red " laterite" jungle soil packed into a few recesses; I purposely left it uncleaned (but not un-oiled) so I don't forget.

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Brian (Dinzag) is the only resource I used on my S308 conversion - starting In 2005 and finishing in 2006. He is an AWESOME resource and very talented. The 308 is the easiest to convert, but it does have some pecularities, insofar as barrel thickness (muzzle threading, front hand guard iron, moving the FSB) and available flash hiders. I went with an M-60 FH, and Brian turned the ring off the back of it so it would fit flush with my FSB and back-bored my FSB so I had room to thread the muzzle. He also removed the end-cap from the FSB. I also got my muzzle threading die and TAT from him. The front hand guard iron is a hybrid that the cuts and tigs up himself, and it's very well executed..

Brian is just "The Shizznit" - especially where S-308's are the issue!

That - and he's a great guy (personally).

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Macbeau sends....

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He walked me through fixing the trigger on my x39 and the 308 fcg i got from him is amazing. Ill be picking up a double hook from him (when i get the scratch) even after his help bc his work is amazing and i cant even dream of getting close even with his help.

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Excellent answers already given and thank you. We use a dremel tool with a small cut off wheel. Go slow. You can drill out the rivets, then chisel them off carefully. Leave the holes alone in the bottom of the receiver where stuff used to be....it justs let water, sand, mud, blood, etc., drain out quicker...or fill up quicker, then drain out quicker. HB of CJ smile.pngsmile.png

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I'm waiting in my lower handguard retainer from Brian now. Should be here to

Orrow if it is I'll post up some pic of it. I really want to move to my next stage that's going to be threading the barrel, I plan on a silencer soon so I think I'll have to remove the barrel, then if I end up not liking te wood I'm going to get some ak74 polymer handguards and put my ace folding stock on it, if I do that I'll put some HK sights on it since it won't look like the classic ak but before I move on from the wood I want to put an ak74 style muzzle break on it just to see how it looks.

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