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Is it true that Hoppes 9 solvent is bad for chrome lined bores. i hear it can get under the chrome and attack the supposed copper lining that the chrome adhears to. Ive always used it and it sounds like bullshit. what do you guys think.

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It is true, but not likely to cause harm unless left in the bore/barrel for extended periods.

Hoppes has ammonia and ammonia etches chrome.

Simply do not leave it soaking for extended periods and be sure to dry and then lube.

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shit. ok thanks a lot guys. thats effin' crazy ive been using that stuff for a loing time on all of my ak's. do you know of any other kind of solvents that will not harm chrome and still work good..i shot about 300 rounds of that brown bear lacquer coated steel casing stuff and i guess the bullets them selves were coated as well because when i look down the bore i can see what looks to be some caked on material. it takes a lot of scrubbing to get any off at all and have never had this problem till i used the brown bear rounds.

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The reason ammonia is typically bad for chrome is because, like you said it attacks the underlying layer of copper (as obviously chrome is microscopically porous). However, this is only true for decorative chrome. Our barrels are hard-chromed, and there is no layer of copper between the steel and the chrome, meaning the bond between the two is unaffected. The only damage would be due to etching. Like Chile said, if you don't leave it sitting in there, it's won't do any damage.

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shit. ok thanks a lot guys. thats effin' crazy ive been using that stuff for a loing time on all of my ak's. do you know of any other kind of solvents that will not harm chrome and still work good..i shot about 300 rounds of that brown bear lacquer coated steel casing stuff and i guess the bullets them selves were coated as well because when i look down the bore i can see what looks to be some caked on material. it takes a lot of scrubbing to get any off at all and have never had this problem till i used the brown bear rounds.

 

Great... i recently picked up two 500 round cases of that stuff.

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I still use hoppes #9 at times, I've a liter which will take a long time to use up.

You can use the Hoppes with no worries on chrome, just don't let it sit.

 

Heavy duty crud, caked & baked on?

Sounds like it is time to whip up a batch of Ed's Red, and put a Tornado brush on a drill.

 

 

 

CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

1 part Dexron II, IIe or III ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.

1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1

1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, Fed. Spec. TT-T-2981F, CAS
#64741-49-9, or may substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or
equivalent, (aka "Varsol")

1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.

(Optional up to 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, OK to
substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)

MIXING INSTRUCTIONS FOR "ER" BORE CLEANER:

Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal,
chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA
approved plastic gasoline storage containers are also OK. Do NOT use
HDPE, which is permeable, because the acetone will eventually evaporate.
The acetone in ER will also attack HDPE, causing the container to
collapse, making a heck of a mess!

Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the other
components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate the
lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, taking
precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin it into a larger
container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and
stirring until it is all dissolved.

I recommend diverting a small quantity, up to 4 ozs. per quart of the
50-50 ATF/kerosene mix for optional use as an "ER-compatible" gun oil.
This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the remaining
mix.


LABEL AND NECESSARY SAFETY WARNINGS:

RIFLE BORE CLEANER CAUTION: FLAMMABLE MIXTURE
HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN

1. Flammable mixture. Keep away from heat, sparks or flame.

2. FIRST AID, If swallowed DO NOT induce vomiting, call physician
immediately. In case of eye contact immediately flush thoroughly with
water and call a physician. For skin contact wash thoroughly.

3. Use with adequate ventilation. Avoid breathing vapors or spray mist.
It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner
inconsistent with its labelling. Reports have associated repeated and
prolonged occupational overexposure to solvents with permanent brain and
nervous system damage. If using in closed armory vaults lacking forced
air ventilation wear respiratory protection meeting NIOSH TC23C or
equivalent. Keep container tightly closed when not in use.


INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING "Ed's Red (ER)" Bore Cleaner:

1. Open the firearm action and ensure the bore is clear. Cleaning is
most effective when done while the barrel is still warm to the touch
from firing. Saturate a cotton patch with bore cleaner, wrap or impale
on jag and push it through the bore from breech to muzzle. The patch
should be a snug fit. Let the first patch fall off and do not pull it
back into the bore.

2. Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore from the
breech, this time scrubbing from the throat area forward in 4-5" strokes
and gradually advancing until the patch emerges out the muzzle. Waiting
approximately 1 minute to let the bore cleaner soak will improve its
action.

3. For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled "rattle battle" guns, leaded
revolvers or neglected bores a bronze brush wet with bore cleaner may be
used to remove stubborn deposits. This is unnecessary for smooth,
target-grade barrels in routine use.

4. Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore to flush out
loosened residue dissolved by Ed's Red. Let the patch fall off the jag
without pulling it back into the bore. If you are finished firing,
leaving the bore wet will protect it from rust for 1 year under average
conditions.

5. If the lanolin is incorporated into the mixture, it will protect the
firearm from rust for up to two years. For longer term storage I
recommend use of Lee Liquid Alox as a Cosmolene substitute. "ER" will
readily remove hardened Alox or Cosmolene.

6. Wipe spilled Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing the gun.
While Ed's Red is harmless to blue and nickel finishes, the acetone it
contains is harmful to most wood finishes).

7. Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore and dry
the chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably sized brush or jag.
First shot point of impact usually will not be disturbed by Ed's Red if
the bore is cleaned as described.

8. I have determined to my satisfaction that when Ed's Red is used
exclusively and thoroughly, that hot water cleaning is unnecessary after
use of Pyrodex or military chlorate primers. However, if bores are not
wiped between shots and shots and are heavily caked from black powder
fouling, hot water cleaning is recommended first to break up heavy
fouling deposits. Water cleaning should be followed by a thorough flush
with Ed's Red to prevent after-rusting which could result from residual
moisture. It is ALWAYS good practice to clean TWICE, TWO DAYS APART
whenever using chlorate primed ammunition, just to make sure you get all
the corrosive residue out.

This "Recipe" is placed in the public domain, and may be freely
distributed provided that it is done so in its entirely with all current
revisions, instructions and safety warnings included herein, and that
proper attribution is given to the author.

In Home Mix We Trust, Regards, Ed
Edited by ChileRelleno

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shit. ok thanks a lot guys. thats effin' crazy ive been using that stuff for a loing time on all of my ak's. do you know of any other kind of solvents that will not harm chrome and still work good..i shot about 300 rounds of that brown bear lacquer coated steel casing stuff and i guess the bullets them selves were coated as well because when i look down the bore i can see what looks to be some caked on material. it takes a lot of scrubbing to get any off at all and have never had this problem till i used the brown bear rounds.

Great... i recently picked up two 500 round cases of that stuff.

oh dont let that detour you from using it. if i had 1000 rounds of that stuff i would dump out on my bed and roll around in it happier than fuck..it just takes some effort gettin clean. make sure you clean your bore after each use and it will be fine. i just didnt put a lot of scrubbing into it and shot all 300 rounds before cleaning real good and a good portion of those rounds were used for somewhat of a torture test. I rapid fired a bunch out of that small lot of ammo. kind of a break in process with me and my guns.

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I use a bore snake with no cleaner involved. I did #9 hoppes with patches but it seemed to get the barrel about the same as just running a bore snake through it several times. Either way the bore is bright and shiny.

 

Any suggestions?

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