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Best non-Tapco FCG?


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I need to change out my Tapco FCG, and i want to replace it with something that will always work, and work well.

 

I was looking at the RSA trigger group, and it looks pretty good. Anyone here have one, and if so, were there any issues installing it?

 

besides the RSA (and of course the tapco), I have seen K-Var FCG's, Texas AK FCG's and Arsenal CG's

 

Something else i am thinking of is re-using the FCG (minus the transfer bar gubbins) that the rifle came with. Is it possible to re-use the factory FCG in a converted saiga?

 

Pretty much all i want is a rock solid, always working, always legal FCG. I got burned with the Tapco, and am a little paranoid at the moment.

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Hello

 

Rather than buy new rifles, I've been going back over the Saiga's and AK variants that I've "built" over the years and re-doing them.

Since my shop tools have greatly improved (grit blasting, painting, riveting, etc.) and my skills and possibly even my taste have improved drastically, I'm seeing dramatic results.

One of the things I'm doing is installing RSA/Power Custom triggers in all my rifles (not shotties) in place of G2's and Texas AK FCG's. I think it's one of the best improvements available.

Once installed, it takes a bit of tweaking to gain the full advantage of them, but once you find that sweet spot, they are unbeatable.

 

JMHO....

 

-guido

"God Loves Liberty"

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Thanks Guido! thats really helpful :)

 

I had read somewhere that the RSA FCG might have a clearance issue with a rivet or bolt behind the FCG... I thinkit would be the rivet that hold the back of the trigger guard on.

 

Have you had any issues like that? or is the RSA truly a drop in part with no headaches?

 

thanks again for your help sir!

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Thanks Guido! thats really helpful smile.png

 

I had read somewhere that the RSA FCG might have a clearance issue with a rivet or bolt behind the FCG... I thinkit would be the rivet that hold the back of the trigger guard on.

 

Have you had any issues like that? or is the RSA truly a drop in part with no headaches?

 

thanks again for your help sir!

 

I had to remove the pre-travel area of the RSA in order to make it work. And it works beautifully, and with not too much pre-travel anyhow. I can provide pics if necessary. Better in my mind to tweak the FCG than permanently alter the receiver.

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I believe that the "texas triggers" are no longer in business, I have read something to that effect on here in a thread. On the RSA triggers the only thing that stopped me from buying one of those was the set screws used to adjust several functions. It was sugessted to me once you have them adjusted the way you want to "loctite" them in place then fill the head with epoxy. I liked the fact that they are machined from solid steel where as all the others are manufactured using some form of casting.

I am curious though what the problem was with the Tapco FCG that the OP had to make them never wnat another one. They seem to be the FCG of choice by most of the Professional converters.

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Hey Mr.T,

 

if you do a search for this: 'Tapco G2 FCG is not intended for the Saiga platform.' you will see my original post.

 

Basically, I have the tapco G2 FCG in my saiga, and I have experienced multiple double fires. I did some investigating, and found that Tapco specifically warns against using the G2 FCG in the saiga platform as double fires can occur.

 

and to forestall any debate, Tapco does not recommend the G2 for the saiga platform in any configuration (original sporter or converted), so I want to take it out of mine. I really dont want a malfunction to land me in serious trouble.

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Basically, I have the tapco G2 FCG in my saiga, and I have experienced multiple double fires. I did some investigating, and found that Tapco specifically warns against using the G2 FCG in the saiga platform as double fires can occur.

 

This is why I got rid of my G2s. I experienced the problem with every one of them. The RSA has worked very nicely since then, but it will require modification in most Saigas. Here's one of mine:

IMG_0213_zps8e72cf9e.jpg

 

Notice that the top of the adjustment hole for the screw in the disconnector is plugged. It will work loose if you don't do something. I found the adjustment I wanted, red-loctited it, and then filled the top of the hole with JB Weld.

 

Here's someone else's RSA FCG without the removal of the pre-travel adjustment area:

DSC00710.JPG

 

Their rivet is further back than where the hole for it is in the Saiga.

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Basically, I have the tapco G2 FCG in my saiga, and I have experienced multiple double fires. I did some investigating, and found that Tapco specifically warns against using the G2 FCG in the saiga platform as double fires can occur.

 

This is why I got rid of my G2s. I experienced the problem with every one of them. The RSA has worked very nicely since then, but it will require modification in most Saigas. Here's one of mine:

IMG_0213_zps8e72cf9e.jpg

 

Notice that the top of the adjustment hole for the screw in the disconnector is plugged. It will work loose if you don't do something. I found the adjustment I wanted, red-loctited it, and then filled the top of the hole with JB Weld.

 

Here's someone else's RSA FCG without the removal of the pre-travel adjustment area:

DSC00710.JPG

 

Their rivet is further back than where the hole for it is in the Saiga.

 

So I have a saiga 7.62 and have a RSA trigger ordered.. when it gets here is anyoines guess, but that's another topic. Will I have to modify my gun OR trigger in some fashion then?

 

Dan

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Basically, I have the tapco G2 FCG in my saiga, and I have experienced multiple double fires. I did some investigating, and found that Tapco specifically warns against using the G2 FCG in the saiga platform as double fires can occur.

 

This is why I got rid of my G2s. I experienced the problem with every one of them. The RSA has worked very nicely since then, but it will require modification in most Saigas. Here's one of mine:

IMG_0213_zps8e72cf9e.jpg

 

Notice that the top of the adjustment hole for the screw in the disconnector is plugged. It will work loose if you don't do something. I found the adjustment I wanted, red-loctited it, and then filled the top of the hole with JB Weld.

 

Here's someone else's RSA FCG without the removal of the pre-travel adjustment area:

DSC00710.JPG

 

Their rivet is further back than where the hole for it is in the Saiga.

 

So I have a saiga 7.62 and have a RSA trigger ordered.. when it gets here is anyoines guess, but that's another topic. Will I have to modify my gun OR trigger in some fashion then?

 

Dan

 

I recommend modifying the trigger. The pre-travel adjustment area gives you fine control over pre-travel, but there's not too much to begin with.

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Something else i am thinking of is re-using the FCG (minus the transfer bar gubbins) that the rifle came with. Is it possible to re-use the factory FCG in a converted saiga?

 

 

yes it can be done, that is what I did, I re-used the hammer and disconnecter that was in the gun already, it was already modified so I didn't need to do anything to it. as for the trigger, I used a foreign trigger from a parts kit I had laying around, just need to do a little filing on it to the same profile as the one that was in the gun originally, it didn't take much.

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thanks for those pictures Jim!

 

I guess the nut that is sitting just behind the pre-travel adjustment area is the screw that holds the rear of the trigger guard on?

 

I would prefer not to modify the FCG, but maybe i can find a rivet to replace that chunky screw...

 

I will also try and see if i can get the original trigger group back in there... (Thanks Matthew!)

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thanks for those pictures Jim!

 

I guess the nut that is sitting just behind the pre-travel adjustment area is the screw that holds the rear of the trigger guard on?

 

I would prefer not to modify the FCG, but maybe i can find a rivet to replace that chunky screw...

 

I will also try and see if i can get the original trigger group back in there... (Thanks Matthew!)

My SGL 31 had a nice rivet in it, significantly smaller than the "chunky screw" in the pic above. It was still too big. You need either a very flat rivet or something further aft to secure the trigger guard.

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