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do you guys run your Saiga wet or dry?


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Dubya I like you because you ask good questions. In my opinion I would never ever use gun grease for it attracts more dirt and debris. I also wouldnt recomend wd-40 because it too will attract dirt. I

White lithium grease, light coat. Nothing in the gas block.

I generally try to stay dry when I'm shooting at targets just for fun. There have been a few times while out deer hunting that I've shot when wet.  

Is this frog lube a joke??

Some folks swear by it, others don't care for it! I am in the latter of the two, I do not care for all in one products. The reason is that I have found they do not do any one of the functions very well. I have tryed Frog lube(not in my AK pattern rifle) and I do not use it, you decide what you like, but it has not been up to my cleaning and lube standards.

 

As for the original question, after a proper cleaning I run a wet patch of Hoppes down the barrel and a dry one after. I also lightly oil my bolt(it is polished mirror), by oil I mean with a patch not pouring oil on it. I do the same with my hammer and trigger internals(also polished like a mirror). I put gun grease lightly on all the rails that show contact(those are the wear locations)!

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I guess I am old school when it comes to cleaning. I try to keep it simple. When I was in the Corps I used CLP. Its basic and its easy. Now I just use hopes to clean it, and the hopes gun oil to lube it. For the bolt I dab some on my finger and lube it and then light whipe it with a clean cloth. same for the bolt carrier. The barrel is easy. Wet patch, followed by a dry patch. I use a graphite cloth to wipe down the outside.

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With your stright blow back rifles that needs to be wet like you know what to run properly when you shoot it left handed, you get the lube right in your face. I used to use other stuff like CLP but I decided to go organic. I dont have to air out after cleaning my gun worrying about my little ones and when it gets all over your face. You can get these stuff from their website, Amazon, an. Other web retailers. It works well as a cleaner and as lube. Ive shot 1000 9mm on my glock without cleaning and 2000 round on my 7.62 without relubing

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Lithium grease or a heavy synthetic motor oil (10w40, 20w50, or straight-weight 40/50) or 75w-90 gear oil. Light oils will run off of the rails and other surfaces as the rifle is stored. The heavier oils keep a film longer. If you use grease, apply it as thinly as possible with your finger. It can form a nasty, gritty paste when mixed with powder residue.

 

I have run AKs dry unintentially plenty of times and never had a problem, and no abnormal wear after doing so. Unless you have an extremely tight AK, it will probably do just fine dry - not that you should always run it that way, though. Even though I keep my guns very clean and maintained, the thing I like about the AK action is that I know I can run it dry and keep it clean only with a rag and a shoelace if I ever had to. Can't do that with most other self-loading designs.

Edited by mancat
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Lithium grease or a heavy synthetic motor oil (10w40, 20w50, or straight-weight 40/50) or 75w-90 gear oil. Light oils will run off of the rails and other surfaces as the rifle is stored. The heavier oils keep a film longer. If you use grease, apply it as thinly as possible with your finger. It can form a nasty, gritty paste when mixed with powder residue.

 

I have run AKs dry unintentially plenty of times and never had a problem, and no abnormal wear after doing so. Unless you have an extremely tight AK, it will probably do just fine dry - not that you should always run it that way, though. Even though I keep my guns very clean and maintained, the thing I like about the AK action is that I know I can run it dry and keep it clean only with a rag and a shoelace if I ever had to. Can't do that with most other self-loading designs.

 

Lithium grease or a heavy synthetic motor oil (10w40, 20w50, or straight-weight 40/50) or 75w-90 gear oil. Light oils will run off of the rails and other surfaces as the rifle is stored. The heavier oils keep a film longer. If you use grease, apply it as thinly as possible with your finger. It can form a nasty, gritty paste when mixed with powder residue.

 

I have run AKs dry unintentially plenty of times and never had a problem, and no abnormal wear after doing so. Unless you have an extremely tight AK, it will probably do just fine dry - not that you should always run it that way, though. Even though I keep my guns very clean and maintained, the thing I like about the AK action is that I know I can run it dry and keep it clean only with a rag and a shoelace if I ever had to. Can't do that with most other self-loading designs.

That's why after the CLP "dries" I'll toss a thin layer of white lithium grease on the moving parts.

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Ok so here's where im at : thin layer of white lithium grease on contact points for the AK, CLP for the recoil spring. And what for my AR? Fire clean? What do you apply the Fire Clean to?

Edited by dubya
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I am a fan of white lithium grease too, for the reasons as Semper stated.

 

Im the barrel, i typically use wipeout/CLP and them patch dry, then run Otis oil patch through.

 

That said, I ordered frog lube for the action the other night, and cannot wait to try it!

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good video but my question would be this. Say you pay 400 for your unmodified saiga. You ship it to them for say 50 or 60. They do they're full custom job. They send it back, which will again cost you 50 to 60. Your total would be around 1300 ish. So, that being said, wouldn't it be just as practical to buy say a mid range Krebs, or Iron Clad Armory or Arsenal ? Not trying to argue, just tring to see which is the best most affordable bang for you buck.

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I was obsessing over what lube to use a few weeks back and started doing some research and testing. I was like pretty much everyone else here and used CLP and Lithium grease and it worked fine. That being said I seem to always be the guy who is never satisfied with the status quo.

 

I remembered reading a post on here a few years ago about a homemade lubricant, but couldn't find it, my search fu failed me. Anyway, I recalled that it included automatic transmission fluid so I started researching. What I came up with was 2 parts mercon/dexron ATF, one part marvel mystery oil, one part mineral oil (FMO 350 or equivalent) and one part 30 weight motor oil.

 

I mixed it up and cleaned 2 identical pistols perfectly and made sure to get all the existing lube off with Hoppes #9.

 

I then lubed one of them as I normally would and the other with the homemade brew, I guess you could call it a variation of Ed's Red I think it is called.

 

The difference was like night and day in regards to how the slide felt when racking them side by side.

 

I know this isn't a scientific experiment by any means, but I had several buddies give it a whirl and they agreed that the friction was significantly reduced with the pistol I had the homemade brew in.

 

Time will only tell how it performs, but I am very happy with the results.

 

There is tons of information out there on how lubes wick and coat the rough microscopic ridges and valleys and how well individual lubes help with corrosion resistance.

 

I won't go back unless I notice something I don't like, so far the results are very impressive.

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I was obsessing over what lube to use a few weeks back and started doing some research and testing. I was like pretty much everyone else here and used CLP and Lithium grease and it worked fine. That being said I seem to always be the guy who is never satisfied with the status quo.

 

I remembered reading a post on here a few years ago about a homemade lubricant, but couldn't find it, my search fu failed me. Anyway, I recalled that it included automatic transmission fluid so I started researching. What I came up with was 2 parts mercon/dexron ATF, one part marvel mystery oil, one part mineral oil (FMO 350 or equivalent) and one part 30 weight motor oil.

 

I mixed it up and cleaned 2 identical pistols perfectly and made sure to get all the existing lube off with Hoppes #9.

 

I then lubed one of them as I normally would and the other with the homemade brew, I guess you could call it a variation of Ed's Red I think it is called.

 

The difference was like night and day in regards to how the slide felt when racking them side by side.

 

I know this isn't a scientific experiment by any means, but I had several buddies give it a whirl and they agreed that the friction was significantly reduced with the pistol I had the homemade brew in.

 

Time will only tell how it performs, but I am very happy with the results.

 

There is tons of information out there on how lubes wick and coat the rough microscopic ridges and valleys and how well individual lubes help with corrosion resistance.

 

I won't go back unless I notice something I don't like, so far the results are very impressive.

I would be amazed if you could tell a difference with an AK style rifle. If my bolt carrier didn't rub the hammer it'd fall out from gravity when I remove the spring..

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Well i just picked up a tub of white lithium, and took my Dremel and removed all the paint on the rails and bolt, polished them all real purdy like, and greased it up a teeny bit. I also polished the hammer where the bolt carrier contacts and re sets it, along with the spot that the trigger catches. Might be in my head but the trigger pull feels far less gritty.

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The thing I don't like about the Ed's Red mixture is that ATF is flammable, more-so than any petroleum lubricant.

The thing I don't like about Ed's Red is the Acetone. Besides being very flammable, it eats plastic. Get sloppy and your TAPCO furniture will bear the scars.

 

Ed made a surprise appearance in a HighRoad thread a few years ago when this drawback was mentioned. Said Ed's Red would perform as well in a 3 part mixture (Equal parts kerosene, Mineral Spirits, and ATF) that leaves out the Acetone. I've been using that way since as a cleaning solvent. The solvents (kerosene and mineral spirits) eventually evaporate but the ATF which stays behind to protect metal.

 

The Ed's Red "variation" described above leaves me shaking my head. Sounds like "oily oil". Great lubricant, probably, but not much of a solvent.

 

For lubrication, I'll stick with a thin coat of white lithium grease. Might not be perfect, but it's pretty dang good. We have to remember that our AKs are only a half-step above farm machinery....if that.

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The thing I don't like about the Ed's Red mixture is that ATF is flammable, more-so than any petroleum lubricant.

The thing I don't like about Ed's Red is the Acetone. Besides being very flammable, it eats plastic. Get sloppy and your TAPCO furniture will bear the scars.

 

Ed made a surprise appearance in a HighRoad thread a few years ago when this drawback was mentioned. Said Ed's Red would perform as well in a 3 part mixture (Equal parts kerosene, Mineral Spirits, and ATF) that leaves out the Acetone. I've been using that way since as a cleaning solvent. The solvents (kerosene and mineral spirits) eventually evaporate but the ATF which stays behind to protect metal.

 

The Ed's Red "variation" described above leaves me shaking my head. Sounds like "oily oil". Great lubricant, probably, but not much of a solvent.

 

For lubrication, I'll stick with a thin coat of white lithium grease. Might not be perfect, but it's pretty dang good. We have to remember that our AKs are only a half-step above farm machinery....if that.

 

 

Who said anything about a solvent? To each his own...

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The thing I don't like about the Ed's Red mixture is that ATF is flammable, more-so than any petroleum lubricant.

The thing I don't like about Ed's Red is the Acetone. Besides being very flammable, it eats plastic. Get sloppy and your TAPCO furniture will bear the scars.

 

Ed made a surprise appearance in a HighRoad thread a few years ago when this drawback was mentioned. Said Ed's Red would perform as well in a 3 part mixture (Equal parts kerosene, Mineral Spirits, and ATF) that leaves out the Acetone. I've been using that way since as a cleaning solvent. The solvents (kerosene and mineral spirits) eventually evaporate but the ATF which stays behind to protect metal.

 

The Ed's Red "variation" described above leaves me shaking my head. Sounds like "oily oil". Great lubricant, probably, but not much of a solvent.

 

For lubrication, I'll stick with a thin coat of white lithium grease. Might not be perfect, but it's pretty dang good. We have to remember that our AKs are only a half-step above farm machinery....if that.

 

 

Who said anything about a solvent? To each his own...

The person who brought up Ed's Red first. It's a solvent. The "variation" he described probably IS a good lubricant, but it doesn't appear to be a solvent. Only thing it has in common is ATF.

 

But I may have read too much into it. The thread is about lubricants.

 

BTW, dubya, I don't get the High Road slam.

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Not going to bad mouth THR because there are alot of great and helpful people there but it's a couple of the mods im not a fan of at all. I once had a simple disagreement with one of them and received a 7 day "time out" (apparently they're right about anything and everything and their opinion is the only one that's right. Hence The HIGH Road, they make sure you know they're above you), then i visited the campfire.

Edited by dubya
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For the Saiga rifles, there just isn't anything in there that needs lube.

You'd just be baking powder residue onto the interior surface.

 

In the S12, my reasoning is excessive fouling.

Every time I open that up, it is already fouled enough with dry powder, carbon and wad fouling that I simply don't want to even think about adding any sort of lube into the mess.

Especially with those hot gases cooking it, I get nightmares of baked on sludge. Hard enough to get a fouled puck out as it is.

The only thing I use is a copper based anti-seize on the gas plug threads, thats about it.

Edited by ChileRelleno
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