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Saiga 5.45 converted @JGSales $799


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  • 4 weeks later...

I just bought one, getting it next week. What do people think of this conversion?

 

My initial impression is the Century butstock and pistol grip has to go.

 

I ordered the Tapco traditional black butstock and Hogue grip. Thinking about an -affordable- red dot and laser, but have to sell an older gun first.

 

 

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I just bought one, getting it next week. What do people think of this conversion?

 

My initial impression is the Century butstock and pistol grip has to go.

 

I ordered the Tapco traditional black butstock and Hogue grip. Thinking about an -affordable- red dot and laser, but have to sell an older gun first.

 

Chaos quad rail would look good on it!

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OK, you guys are NOT going to believe this. And anyone who buys one of these should know what I experienced. Pictures to follow.

 

For background, I have owned and worked on several AKs. I am not an expert as many on this site, but I am not new to the AK, partly thanks to the experience on this site.

 

I have seen this model of Saiga 5.45x39 on several places, and wanted one for a long time. The boat oar buttstock and pistol grip looked cheap so I got a Hogue grip and Tapco stock, which is very nice. The hammer forged chrome lined barrel and the newer unmodified front end appealed to me.

 

I found one on gunbroker new and unfired for a slightly better price than the websites that have them. $750.00 Ok. Good deal, especially these days.

 

I got the gun today from the FFL, and got home and shot it right away thinking if it keyholes or doesnt cycle I want to know now. I was relieved that it seems accurate, doesn't keyhole, but of the three magazines it jammed more than a half dozen times. I mean it rammed the bullet back into the case as it hit the lower right front face just below the chamber opening. I'm pissed. I thought these had a bullet guide. I look. It DOES have a bullet guide. I send off a scathing email to the seller of the gun.

 

So then I so some research. I try to figure out what is happening to jam this thing. I remove the dust cover, spring, bolt and charging handle and put one and then two bullets in a magazine and install it in the receiver to see how the bullets strip off and approach the chamber. The left side is fine, bullet seems to bullseye the chamber and it feeds well. BUT the right side never makes it up to clear the edge of the opening. What the heck is going on here? One thing is odd. The bullet guide is a round trunnion type is tack welded on. I never have heard of that technique for a bullet ramp. Screwed on, or riveted on maybe, but I figure with mass production, well maybe a tack weld is ok.

 

Well I do some thinking, if I can fix this myself then maybe I can have a functioning gun sooner than if I send it off to the manufacturer. I flip the receiver over, and with a screw driver and a hammer start tapping the edge of the bullet ramp that isn't clearing into the chamber, thinking if I could raise it a little it might fix the problem. Off comes the bullet ramp.

 

The Round Trunnion Bullet ramp.

Tack welded onto a FLAT trunnion.

 

So the problem was discovered. These guys tack welded (unevenly causing the one side to not load) a round trunnion ramp onto a flat trunnion.

 

Now I don't even want to return it because I don't want them to screw it up again. They managed to put a round peg in a square hole and think it good...

 

Please look at the pictures to follow and confirm if I am right.

 

I can do better than that!!

Edited by Landis
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I contacted the seller, who has been wonderful. The only marking on the rifle other than the original Russian markings is RWC group LLC, but the seller says that Century, yes Century International Arms, is the importer, which is making sense. I guess Century did more than just supply the ugly M-74 buttstock.

 

Looks like things have not changed.

Edited by Landis
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I'm batting .500 with Century. Got one of their M74s and have been very happy with it, after nearly 1K rounds. Runs flawless, is as accurate as my Saiga 5.45 (1.5-2" MOA), cycles well with all my milsurp mags and seems fairly well put together. I also got a lemon of a M74 bullpup; must have had a .223 barrel cause it keyholed terribly at 20 yds. Took 6 months of "negotiating", but I got fully refunded and a free circle 10 mag for my trouble and shipping fee.

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I bought one these same setups, and mine is tac welded as well so fa I've only shot the wolf HP through it and it jammed with a tapco mag not the bulgy mag. I cycled the rifle with the wolf ammo in and I could see the round getting caught just bellow the bullet guide causing my ftf. I've converted my own saiga 12 and built a FAL from scratch with a parts kit. How hard is it to install a new bullet guide if I have to?

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Thanks for the images Landis.

 

I have heard before of welded bullet guides coming off from functioning rifles just from regular use. How disgusting.

 

Luckily, you were able to remove the botched bullet guide, and will be able to install a proper one.


I wonder if the welding messed with the temper of the front trunnion metal?

 

Can you tell me what the rivets on the trigger guard are like? Or is it screwed in? Does it have a raised head rear rivet on the trigger guard, if it is indeed riveted in?

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Looks to me like there wasn't enough heat applied long enough and instead of working the puddle they just filled the hole.. it suck but it is an easy mistake to miss (not making excuses, but I've ben guilty of it in the pass on other pin welds). Took me a while to get the technique down right.igh

You can drill and tap since it looks like the weld didn't penetrate very well so I wouldn't worry about any sort of work hardening, from the previous failed weld. TIG work actually keeps the highest heat relatively local, so long they didn't make a dozen failed attempts (which you have NO way of knowing) I wouldn't expect any unordinary difficulty drilling and tapping. That said, I personally would weld it again, if it were my rifle.

Edited by poolingmyignorance
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Thanks for the info.

 

I was hoping to try to drill and tap it, and since I am not set up for welding, and have not welded anything for 35 years, I plan on using that as the backup plan.

 

I also read on another thread how the ramps some sell are not thick enough to raise the bullet, so people add a #6 or #8 washer under the bullet ramp. If I drill it and use a screw I will be able to adjust the ramp as such as needed.

 

I also noticed that some ramps have no grooves to funnel the bullet, just a flat ramp. My previous AK has grooves.

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