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Well a lot of the unwillingness is due to the fact that there are only a few different options once you cut of your tang, there is the ACE(and clones) and there is the kushnapup. With the tang left o

Things get a lot more interesting when the tang comes off....       =        

I say keep it and go with one of the Bonesteel Arms stocks. Much superior when compared to either ACE or Stormwerkz.

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I really don't understand the unwillingness to cut that damn tang off. If you really want, save it and you can always waste good money having someone stitch it back on.

 

As far as I'm concerned, it's not supposed to be there anyhow. To me, it's like cutting a cancerous lump off of my dog. Needs to be done...

 

It also insults my intelligence by knowing that it was once part of the "sporter" configuration.

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Or can you not cut it?... and just drill out some rivets and save the complete set-up? Is there a cross member that you can buy if you drill out the rivets? Just a thought I'll have to look at mine again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

spelling edit.

Edited by ResponsiveResolve
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Yeah i agree ,get that ugly stub off. I picked up another S762 on Friday and got home and cut the tang off before i took my shoes or jacket off! Even if you cut it you can still install the factory stock just fine.

 

Or can you not cut it?... and just drill out some rivets and save the complete set-up? Is there a cross member that you can buy if you drill out the rivets? Just a thought I'll have to look at mine again. spelling edit.
That would be the whole rear trunion you're talking about and it'd be far more expensive to buy a custom trunion then cutting off the tang for free. Why do you guys want the tang there?

Plus the rivets aren't the normal pop rivets and gun you can buy at the hardware store for $15, they're REAL rivets and most people don't have the right tools, myself included.

Edited by dubya
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I really don't understand the unwillingness to cut that damn tang off. If you really want, save it and you can always waste good money having someone stitch it back on.

 

As far as I'm concerned, it's not supposed to be there anyhow. To me, it's like cutting a cancerous lump off of my dog. Needs to be done...

 

It also insults my intelligence by knowing that it was once part of the "sporter" configuration.

 

Well a lot of the unwillingness is due to the fact that there are only a few different options once you cut of your tang, there is the ACE(and clones) and there is the kushnapup. With the tang left on there are tons more options, many of them superior.

 

Why is it not supposed to be there? It is factory original on all non folding stock stamped aks.

 

It has nothing to do with the "sporter" configuration, it is the proper method of attaching a stock to a stamped ak.

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Or can you not cut it?... and just drill out some rivets and save the complete set-up? Is there a cross member that you can buy if you drill out the rivets? Just a thought I'll have to look at mine again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

spelling edit.

 

Smack it up, flip it, rub it down, whatever... Just get that thing off of there or buy a stock that accomodates it and have your intelligence insulted every time you look at it.

 

S-12s are not guns for "collectors" and I doubt they ever will be in as we know collector guns now. The more properly performed and durable modifications to make it the AK it's supposed to be, the better.

 

It's not as if we're talking about putting a '64 back window in a '63 split window 'vette... (BLASPHEMY!!)

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I really don't understand the unwillingness to cut that damn tang off. If you really want, save it and you can always waste good money having someone stitch it back on.

 

As far as I'm concerned, it's not supposed to be there anyhow. To me, it's like cutting a cancerous lump off of my dog. Needs to be done...

 

It also insults my intelligence by knowing that it was once part of the "sporter" configuration.

 

Well a lot of the unwillingness is due to the fact that there are only a few different options once you cut of your tang, there is the ACE(and clones) and there is the kushnapup. With the tang left on there are tons more options, many of them superior.

 

Why is it not supposed to be there? It is factory original on all non folding stock stamped aks.

 

It has nothing to do with the "sporter" configuration, it is the proper method of attaching a stock to a stamped ak.

 

Point taken... For me, an AK without a folding stock has never been a consideration. If it don't fold, it don't go in the safe. I'm not a rebel in Sierra Leone. I want my guns as short as possible. The advantages of a high quality folding stock are almost too innumerable to list.

 

I would argue that any stock can be drilled for the receiver block or hinge assembly. I don't consider that to be a real limitation of your options.

 

I suppose at the end of the day, I'm just arguing that if you THINK you want to cut the tang, YOU DO WANT TO CUT THE TANG. Cut it off and be done with it.

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But the length of the tang (what... what 2"?) longer than the CSS, or other, folding hinge combo.

 

If overall length is the goal, forget that tang...

 

actually it is only 0.46" longer a far cry from 2". If you want to trade that less than half inch longer while folded for a 0.59" wider,heavier, bolted together mechanism that does not lock as well, go for it. But don't 'insult the intelligence' of people who prefer to look for a different option.

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OK, I did it. My other 2 S-12's have a Romanian wire folder and a Bulgarian wire folder. No need to cut the tang. It is part of the mounting. This one has a DPS billit aluminum stock with a CSS block, and Stormwrkz hinge with built in 3 degree drop, and a limbsaver pad. It's all good so far. And I'm not insulted in the least when I see a true Russian type wire folder on my S-12's, lol. I will finish it up tomorrow. Or maybe later tonight.

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That's the best folder! Lots of work though i'd imagine.

I can go from a complete S12 to pressing rivets in about 2 hours. I developed a system that allows me to do it quickly and accurately. My first one took me about twice that, lol.

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But the length of the tang (what... what 2"?) longer than the CSS, or other, folding hinge combo.

 

If overall length is the goal, forget that tang...

 

actually it is only 0.46" longer a far cry from 2". If you want to trade that less than half inch longer while folded for a 0.59" wider,heavier, bolted together mechanism that does not lock as well, go for it. But don't 'insult the intelligence' of people who prefer to look for a different option.

 

What the huh?

 

I just measured... My internal stock adapter and CSS hinge comes in at slightly under 1"... The stock tang comes in at around 1.5" + the Bonesteel folding hinge (which I don't have a dimension for, but speculated at about 2" overall).

 

So... You're right in a way... It's ~1" difference by my approximations, not 2".

post-33185-0-89787300-1362705546_thumb.jpg

post-33185-0-02299400-1362705562_thumb.jpg

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1.5 - 1 = .5 so according to your tape measure the answer is .5" , or if more accurately measured .46"

 

(actual numbers are 1.36" for the tang, and .90" for the receiver block and folding mechanism)

 

Our hinges do not stick past the tang at all.

 

 

Things get a lot more interesting when the tang comes off....

 

attachicon.gifDIY AK100 rear block 10.jpg

 

 

=

 

 

attachicon.gifsbs retrofit cut.jpg

 

 

Intalling a 100 series folder is almost always a good idea, side mount optics or cost are the only 2 reasons not to.

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Im assuming he is only measuring to the part of the ace adapter that protrudes rearward when folded, which looks to be at around .75". So in essence, the bonesteel stocks stick out .75" further. But the tradeoff is not as solid of a lockup and no option to return to a fixed stock without gunsmithing/welding tools and abilities. 3/4" isnt worth cutting the tang IMO. But the OP already took the plunge and use parts he already had, so its all a wash arguing which way is better since he already made his decision.

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Im assuming he is only measuring to the part of the ace adapter that protrudes rearward when folded, which looks to be at around .75". So in essence, the bonesteel stocks stick out .75" further. But the tradeoff is not as solid of a lockup and no option to return to a fixed stock without gunsmithing/welding tools and abilities. 3/4" isnt worth cutting the tang IMO. But the OP already took the plunge and use parts he already had, so its all a wash arguing which way is better since he already made his decision.

 

When measuring the ace, you also need to include the flange on the receiver block that sits against receiver that plus the .folded mechanism equals .9"

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That's the best folder! Lots of work though i'd imagine.

I can go from a complete S12 to pressing rivets in about 2 hours. I developed a system that allows me to do it quickly and accurately. My first one took me about twice that, lol.

 

Sweet! Now i know who to send mine too :)

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1.5 - 1 = .5 so according to your tape measure the answer is .5" , or if more accurately measured .46"

 

(actual numbers are 1.36" for the tang, and .90" for the receiver block and folding mechanism)

 

Our hinges do not stick past the tang at all.

 

 

Things get a lot more interesting when the tang comes off....

 

attachicon.gifDIY AK100 rear block 10.jpg

 

 

=

 

 

attachicon.gifsbs retrofit cut.jpg

 

 

Intalling a 100 series folder is almost always a good idea, side mount optics or cost are the only 2 reasons not to.

 

So, the folding hinge actually resides under the tang? All of the pictures I've seen does not make it look that way. Not to call you a liar, but would you mind posting some pics? All of the bonesteel stock pictures I've seen makes it look like a behemoth next to what I've displayed.

Edited by Maxwelhse
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Im assuming he is only measuring to the part of the ace adapter that protrudes rearward when folded, which looks to be at around .75". So in essence, the bonesteel stocks stick out .75" further. But the tradeoff is not as solid of a lockup and no option to return to a fixed stock without gunsmithing/welding tools and abilities. 3/4" isnt worth cutting the tang IMO. But the OP already took the plunge and use parts he already had, so its all a wash arguing which way is better since he already made his decision.

 

When measuring the ace, you also need to include the flange on the receiver block that sits against receiver that plus the .folded mechanism equals .9"

look at Maxwells first picture. He has the tape measure behind the flange, so it is included in the measurement. From the pics which arent exact measurements, that combo is far from .9"

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Well, yeah. After going out and cutting it, I come back and read this thread. It's only one gun. I probably won't ever do it again. I will research more options next time. I bought the parts a long time ago, when they were available. No big deal. What has been done, is done, lol.

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It's like getting circumcised, once you do it, you feel better

 

and better looking hardware is more compatible with you

More like a vasectomy. Its like losing your manhood. Can likely be reversed if you change your mind, but why go through all the hassle.

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look at Maxwells first picture. He has the tape measure behind the flange, so it is included in the measurement. From the pics which arent exact measurements, that combo is far from .9"

 

Actually, the combo is almost exactly 0.9"... I can't do a thing about the camera parallax, though I tried my best to show the situation fairly.

 

In the interest of good debate, and not just being snooty, I can't bust out the digital calipers if you think the forum would benefit from the increased accuracy.

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1.5 - 1 = .5 so according to your tape measure the answer is .5" , or if more accurately measured .46"

 

(actual numbers are 1.36" for the tang, and .90" for the receiver block and folding mechanism)

 

Our hinges do not stick past the tang at all.

 

 

Things get a lot more interesting when the tang comes off....

 

attachicon.gifDIY AK100 rear block 10.jpg

 

 

=

 

 

attachicon.gifsbs retrofit cut.jpg

 

 

Intalling a 100 series folder is almost always a good idea, side mount optics or cost are the only 2 reasons not to.

 

So, the folding hinge actually resides under the tang? All of the pictures I've seen does not make it look that way. Not to call you a liar, but would you mind posting some pics? All of the bonesteel stock pictures I've seen makes it look like a behemoth next to what I've displayed.

On mine, it protrudes past the tang 1/32". Appears almost flush with the tang.

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Now I WOULD cut the tang off to do a stock like evlblkwpns, BUT im sorry the bolted together folders just dont really impress me that much to cut the tang! I would much rather use the bonesteel stock and keep the tang. I did make a bolt together folding stock for my MAK90 because no on makes one for it but I kept the tang! That keeps many more options open if i want to change it later.

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Im not seeing it. unfold the adapter and measure from behind the flange of the Internal adapter and measure to the outside of the "male" portion on the ACE adapter.

Actually, the combo is almost exactly 0.9"... I can't do a thing about the camera parallax, though I tried my best to show the situation fairly.

 

In the interest of good debate, and not just being snooty, I can't bust out the digital calipers if you think the forum would benefit from the increased accuracy.

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