dubya 198 Posted March 9, 2013 Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 When my S12 arrives I'm going to polish the innards until i can see my ugly face in the reflection. I use a Dremel with a sanding/buffing bit that looks like a sponge to take the paint off and polish my other gun part's but it doesn't get really shiny. What do you guys use to smooth your bolt, rails, ect. up? Yes i just realized there's a sticky on this.... oops Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Big John! 2,062 Posted March 9, 2013 Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 (edited) I used the finest drum shaped sander to profile. Then I used the polishing wheel with white then red rouges to make shiny. I followed Pauly's advice, while not jeweled, I kept the hammer face just rough (finest grit) ground as to hold grease better than a shiny face. I used a pretty fine emory cloth on the rails. Again not high polishing them either so they'd hold grease. My four ports are drilled to about .080 and the thing is running like a locomotive. Edited March 9, 2013 by Big John! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Capt Nemo 882 Posted March 9, 2013 Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 I used Arkansas stones on mine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dubya 198 Posted March 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 Makes sense to leave it a bit rough. Ill probably end up getting main contact points jeweled eventually anyway but thats down the road. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pedal2alloy 206 Posted March 10, 2013 Report Share Posted March 10, 2013 Best thing to polish with? Isn't that obvious? And you are right about that sticky... 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AJ Dual 43 Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 The best thing to polish it with is... ammo. That said, I just sat there in my workshop, put the buttstock down on a stool, and wailed on the bolt charging handle wearing a work glove, and would cycle it 100 times and take a break. After about 500 repetitions of that, I took it down, sprayed everything with carb cleaner, re-lubed with a spray of Rem-oil, and a drop of Mobil 1 on a few strategic places, then did it again a day or two later when I was passing through the basement to flip over laundry etc. I definitely see the benefit of a bolt profiling job, any time I forget myself and try to seat a magazine on a closed bolt, I'm reminded of why it's a useful mod. I don't know. Maybe I'm lucky. My Saiga ran about 90% with Federal bulk-pack 12ga out of the box after the hand-cycling and cleaning/relubing treatment for about 40 rounds, and then has been 100% ever since. I've actually fed it nothing else, except some Fiocchi high-brass buckshot at a bowling pin shoot. It's a 2008 3 port model. Ports are unobstructed, and well centered. All it ever shoots otherwise is 1oz Lee molded cast lead slugs, a cheap trap wad, whatever cheap 209 shotgun primers were around, Centurion/Rio/Wolf, and 17gr of clays. A rather mild "plinking slug" load. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dubya 198 Posted March 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 (edited) Yeah i just bought a few Dremel polishing wheels (the sponge looking ones) and polished everything but I use white lithium grease for lube and i brought it out for the first time and only had 4 FTE with the cheap Federal bulk 8 shot that's $23/100 rds. That was 46/50 rounds, not too bad. Edited March 14, 2013 by dubya Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 More than one way to skin a cat. That whole thing about rougher surfaces holding grease for instance. Meh... Some people don't like to run a grease gun. I use oil and all my contact surfaces are mirror polished. Sure you can rub two bottles together and here them squeak bla bla. Try it with a little oil on those surfaces. It only takes a drop, and if you maintain your firearms then oiling them should be standard procedure. I also use a foaming spray lithium grease, and have yet to see my bolt carrier or hammer look or feel dry or oil free when I field strip my guns for a rare cleaning. As smooth as they are they will run dry just as well anyway. I just prefer to keep em oiled a little. Edit to add... I mean a good oil though, not just plain gun oil. I use Tromix Broken Arrow Break In Lube, which is a specially formulated mix of different oils more like CLP. As I mentioned, I also use the spray on lithium but it doesn't leave a gunky residue like a bearing grease. It coats and levels out clear. IMO if you have a rough or jeweled surface and it IS allowed to get dry or untreated for some reason, it very quickly becomes a sponge for attracting moisture.... and moisture + steel = RUST. On the other hand, if the surface has been burnished and polished, it has a much better seal against any moisture penetrating and causing anything but the very lightest rust to form.... which if it does form is easily wiped away or will go away by itself by simply firing the weapon. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikeNM 8 Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 "Frog Lube" on everything.. The yuk just wipes off, lubes/penetrates too. Shoot lot'sof 22's (lead,CCI)... wipes off....2011 open 9mm, same, M-11 sub gun, same. Have not used just plain oil for sometime.....Saiga12, Akdal also...no oil. Guns used primaraly in competition... To each his own, cleanup is a dry towel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nephilim7 107 Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 (edited) Eezox (Google: "Eezox 6mmbr" - last pic says it all) all over and a dab of Mobil1 on bearing surfaces. Lasts for months on my pocket carry gun. I like my guns dry and sealed from water. No water contact, no rust... I don't think I will ever try another product the rest of my life. Edited March 14, 2013 by Nephilim7 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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