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Considering Upgrades

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so after my little range test, although there are more to come in the future (assuming ammo starts to become more available and reasonably priced), I have been pondering things to upgrade. big challenge of course because of the lack of parts actually available.


I know some people say recoil is light and maybe I am just not used to the .308, but I honestly think it kicks worse than the M14 I used in the Navy. So I would like to address this issue.


I am considering an adjustable gas block, I always like the idea of tunability and perhaps I want to use a sound suppressor (yea yea I know the legal mumbo jumbo... moving on) in the future. although given the size of the barrel the deza adjustable block wont fit nor is it available, in fact it seems its no longer produced looking at the manufacturers website. kinda wondering if the adjustable shotgun gas regulators for the .410 or 12 would fit and actually perform as needed. since the iron sights are integrated into my stock regulator I would need to add an FSB if I ever wanted to use irons.


recoil/flash suppressor... I'm not sure how well the ported barrel is actually doing in this regard.


barrel twist ratio. the barrel is a 1:12 or 1:12.6.. kind of a toss up depending on who you ask 1:10 is almost too tight for the .308 according to some manufacturer specs. and 1:12 is nearing the other end of the spectrum so a 1:11 might be an even middle. maybe its just in my head, just considering if this was affecting the accuracy in my other thread.


Stock.. although nice and beautiful I honestly worry more about ruining it, its just too friggin nice, and my other issue with it is the lack of adjustability, cheek weld, the length from shoulder to grip seems a tad too short for me making it a tad uncomfortable to aim and fire.


in all likelihood I may be stuck waiting on parts manufacturers to come up with solutions, which may be never; or roll my own, in which case won't happen for at the very least another year, possibly 5 or more years. I do actually have plans on getting a shop and equipment to do my own gunsmithing and my Step father is working on opening up his own shop which will be moving up my way in the next 5 years or so

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Upgrades are tempting. I've enjoyed your posts on the super so far, so I thought I would quit lurking and chime in.


My super has the round porting holes and it seems to work as well as any of my other flash suppressors. Out of 5 different .308 rifles I own, only the FNAR has lighter recoil than my VEPR Super, so I don't feel the need to try and reinvent the wheel on that part. Best solution to lighten it up a bit may be to try some 7.62x51mm NATO rounds through it and see if you like that better as they tend to feel lighter to me than .308 even though they are interchangeable in most 308 win rifles.



You will most likely have to cut off the ported area in order to change to a different flash hider or suppressor. I am picking up a 16" version 01 for playing with those type of modifications since chopping up the super is not to my liking.


The twist ratio is what it is and I will have to spend more time with it at longer distances to know how I feel about that, but it is going to stay as is for me as that would also require major disassembly to change.


I am totally with you on the stock. It is pretty and also kind of soft, so I don't want to take it out and risk banging it up in the woods. Something much lighter with a cheek riser would be very nice as well, but I am fine with the LOP as a fairly tall guy a little over 6'.


I think we may very well be stuck with the super as is for a while as they don't seem to be a high volume item. Low demand makes for even lower aftermarket demand.


The top mount seems to work better for me by switching over the locking lever to be on the left side where it can lock down on the upper notch that does not exist on the right side, almost like it was designed that way. ;) It also doesn't seem to loosen that way as it is torqueing the screw as you push it down. I'm not sure why it shipped put together backwards, but it is easy enough to fix. It may not help with scope clearance, but it helped keep the charging handle area unobstructed for my big mitts.

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you may be right about the recoil, I know the Hornady ammo I used was a heck of a lot easier to get back on target with. hopefully these ammo prices will come down so i can shoot more often.


I didn't really think there was a sufficient amount of surface area between the ports and fluting. I'm no expert gunsmith of course. I have contemplated purchasing a second super to do any modifications. heck I thought about purchasing a second CZ-52 but that has yet to happen either.. alternatively later down the road I could look at building my own version of the super, but that is a few years out I feel.


I didn't think there was too much issue with the top mounts cam lever. I had not noticed an issue with where it sits in relation to the charging handle, I also loosened up the nut on it to readjust where it sits after its tight so its almost flush with the edge of the stock.


I actually like the overall style of the stock, I just want a cheek riser, and something a tad lighter, I can probably live with the length in the long term, time will tell.


the charging handle, its a bit thin for my taste and I find it uncomfortable to pull. so the rubber piece that covered it for shipping is still on it to make it more comfortable. I will probably trim it slightly and epoxy it in place.

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Check out the Tromix AK charging handle. I have that on my Hunter & really like it over the stock part.

I'm assuming you mean this one: http://www.tromix.com/images/saiga-parts/BoltOnCH151.jpg

I have been considering it, most likely the smooth version if I do.


on another note: if only RSA or BHA(they point fingers at RSA even though I ordered it from them) would ship my damn FCG........... all I have gotten is lip service and no return calls.

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I disassembled my rifle today, mainly to figure out how to remove the FCG for the RSA FCG assuming it ever shows up..just in case anyone is wondering the Sheppard crook(hook) is removed a bit backwards compared to other AK's.

  1. push the hook downward and press the hammers pin out.
  2. remove the hammer
  3. lift the hook upward and pull it towards the barrel at the same time to clear the triggers pin.

I weighed the stock its roughly 2.5-2.8 lbs not really sure how much lighter a synthetic stock would be if any. as far as I can tell most of the weight is in that beast of a barrel.

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playing around with an Idea to just design/build my own stock, its not going to be a very fast project but I figure its something I will be doing in the future anyways on a professional level so I might as well start with my own. after weighing out the possibilities I have decided on carving laminate. its easier to work since its almost like doing conventional wood and no hassles with molds and such. although carbide tools will be a must. to cut down on weight I am going to work out a way to inlet as much of the foregrip as possible without sacrificing structural integrity.


I figure I can build about two stocks out of a plank. which gives me an option of two possibilities on how to design it. I am thinking of trying to freefloat the entire barrel. the way the current one is, its freefloated except for the mounting point under the FSB, as zagumennyyilya figured out this is causing some pressure points throwing the round slightly. if the first does not work out then the second would be used to bed the entire barrel. although with inletting I could secure some veneer over the top of the inletting and then add the bedding compound.


I will be ordering a plank from http://www.rutply.com/solutions/stratabond.html


EDIT#2: I just finally figured out what the hell the brochure meant with the 4 to 10, etc.. that's a heck of a lot of stock to be ordering....


My only catch is trying to decide on some colors. I don't want to do any crazy blue red etc.. really I am wanting to do something subtle. either all one color or maybe a couple similar colors for a sort of camo effect. thinking dark colors as well. red is just not my thing and going 100% black is not very blending in the northwest either. I will be playing with color ideas but if any of you have suggestions I am all ears. looking at the brochure depending on the thickness of colors changes the pricing. I am figuring 2 1/2" should be thick enough and profiled as needed. the thickest point of the original stock is 2"


Edit: been looking at other laminate stocks, I'm kinda digging this color combo PS_Stingray_Black_Olive_L_1.jpg


I think the above might have come out of this place http://www.cousineauwoodproducts.com/store.php?category=spectraply


nice selection, tad more expensive per board but I don't see a minimum purchase issue.

Edited by Dracozny
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