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New frontier polymer complete lowers- $199


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I'm building on a New Frontier as we speak... can't say much about it other than the magazine release hole of out of spec on the latch side... took about 45 minutes of filing to get it right. On that alone, I probably would suggest anyone steer clear of them unless you're getting it at a really good price and don't care if its not a drop in fit for parts.

 

As far as the Gunwebsites guy is concerned, though... I'd never recommend or tell someone to avoid something going just by looks alone. Put it together and shoot it... then tell us about it. Tapping on the side and telling us how the plastic looks is something anyone can do if they see it at a gun store.

 

Anyway... I think the polymer lowers are fine for most purposes. If you're building it with the intention to play hard and buttstroke zombies or something, you probably don't want to rely on the plastic to hold up. For me, its getting built into a lightweight camp rifle in 7.62x39.

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I dont think its a good buy at all. These used to be $100 complete lower. They also have a commecial spec extension tube, so stock choices are more limited (but still somewhat broad). The LPK is all plastic as well. These lowers have a few 'issues' to be aware of. The takedown pins are known to shear if not careful, and ive heard the same about some other pins. As mentioned the mag release button hole is slightly too tight, mine only took 5 minutes of careful filing. The original hammer had some issues with .22 builds, but you can contact them for a free revised hammer or just buy a different FCG. Also, butt-stroking on the mil-spec aluminum lower can lead to the lower cracking where the extenion meets the lower, a platform issue only exacerbated by moving to a slightly weaker material.

 

That said, I bought a couple stripped last year for $44 and put a $50 PSA lower build kit on it, and couldnt be happier. Im aware of its limitations, so wont be slamming the tube into anything. I think the better buy right now is the stripped version for IIRC $69 recently, and one with LPK but no stock for $119? then get a quality takedown pin and stock elsewhere.

 

Mine are going to be a .22 rifle and 5.56 'firearm' - non-stocked 26.5" OAL. Ill probably do a 7.62 eventually, but because of the larger round ill use 7075 for that.

Edited by mostholycerebus
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Maxwelhse,

 

I have built several AR's and love it as a hobby. For a first timer just wait a few months and a stripped aluminum lower will be back around $100. They have already hit below $200 and are falling. The only "tricky" part is dealing with the ears on the trigger guard so they do not get broken off and you can spend a few more bucks and get one with the trigger guard milled intothe lower it that is of a major concern to you.

 

This post by me was for anyone who was interested as i got the email and passed it in. The polymer lowers are basically the same as having a polymer pistol lower like a glock or springfield. If it is to be used as a cheap camp rifle that will work then you are good. Theyre not made to be used to beat down doors and take tons of abuse (though no gun really is no matter what people profess). Everything has its purpose. For someone who wants to build a sub $600 AR these are perfect. Anyone building a sub $600 rifle is also aware that it will not be a sniper rifle. In a couple years when it is time to build my son his first it will probably be a polymer to start until he is careful enough in handling for a quality rifle like me and the wife have.

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Maxwelhse,

 

I have built several AR's and love it as a hobby. For a first timer just wait a few months and a stripped aluminum lower will be back around $100. They have already hit below $200 and are falling. The only "tricky" part is dealing with the ears on the trigger guard so they do not get broken off and you can spend a few more bucks and get one with the trigger guard milled intothe lower it that is of a major concern to you.

 

This post by me was for anyone who was interested as i got the email and passed it in. The polymer lowers are basically the same as having a polymer pistol lower like a glock or springfield. If it is to be used as a cheap camp rifle that will work then you are good. Theyre not made to be used to beat down doors and take tons of abuse (though no gun really is no matter what people profess). Everything has its purpose. For someone who wants to build a sub $600 AR these are perfect. Anyone building a sub $600 rifle is also aware that it will not be a sniper rifle. In a couple years when it is time to build my son his first it will probably be a polymer to start until he is careful enough in handling for a quality rifle like me and the wife have.

 

Thanks again. I'm of your same opinion. I'll be holding off until prices fall out of the stratosphere. To me, having a gun that runs like a beaten whore is the most important part. If it costs a few more bucks, then so be it. If this lower had the reputation that Glock and Springfield have then I wouldn't hesitate.

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HUmmm... I don't know jack about ARs, but $200 for a ready to shoot lower seems like an excellent buy.

 

You guys tell me, is this deal good enough to jump into ARs?

 

 

Wait for a Palmetto State lower. Less than $160 for a MILSPEC lower.

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In my opinion, the reward of the slightly less cost and less weight of the polymer lower is not

worth the loss in strength of the aluminum. If you look at a magpul mag vs a stamped aluminum one,

you'll notice that the magpul polymer takes up the width of the ribs on the stamped one, thus the

polymer is much thicker than the Al.

 

But (and I haven't checked this) the polymer receivers look to be all the same dimensions as the Al ones.

This means that the extra thickness to get the polymer to the strength of the Al is not there, so they are

gambling on the safety margins of the original design of the platform, and saying it will be strong "enough."

 

Thus, the "it's good enough for .22 and 9mm, but not .308" that you see.

 

Reminds me of a time at work. This jig was too heavy, but couldn't be bigger with aluminum. Titanium

was too expensive, so we carbon fibered the balls out of an aluminum skeleton and load checked the piss

out of it.

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Stupid AR's... Went to Sportsmans at 6:30 am to do the ritual wait for them to unload the truck and get some ammo. I was fifth in line. Woo-hoo! There ended up being about 75 or so people in line by the time they opened the doors at 9.

 

Anyhow, dude comes out and has tickets for rifles and 2 of them happened to be Colt LE6920's. First guy snatched one. Guys two three and four either passed or took tickets for other AR's. Then I ended up with a ticket for a 6920 for $1166.00 with all Magpul dark earth furniture and 1 Pmag. I had zero intention of buying a gun but I was totally stoked to get this particular one at what I consider to be an awesome price.

 

Dude that was number one in line got an offer of $100 from guy number seven for his ticket to buy the other 6920 and ended up taking it. He made $100 for standing in line. Crazy...

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<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Voltia" data-cid="883132" data-time="1364671318"><p>

In my opinion, the reward of the slightly less cost and less weight of the polymer lower is not<br />

worth the loss in strength of the aluminum. If you look at a magpul mag vs a stamped aluminum one,<br />

you'll notice that the magpul polymer takes up the width of the ribs on the stamped one, thus the<br />

polymer is much thicker than the Al.<br />

<br />

But (and I haven't checked this) the polymer receivers look to be all the same dimensions as the Al ones.<br />

This means that the extra thickness to get the polymer to the strength of the Al is not there, so they are<br />

gambling on the safety margins of the original design of the platform, and saying it will be strong "enough."<br />

<br />

Thus, the "it's good enough for .22 and 9mm, but not .308" that you see.<br />

<br />

Reminds me of a time at work. This jig was too heavy, but couldn't be bigger with aluminum. Titanium<br />

was too expensive, so we carbon fibered the balls out of an aluminum skeleton and load checked the piss<br />

out of it.</p></blockquote>

 

In all fairness a polymer lower on a .308 would be fine. Unlike an AK, there is minimal stress on the lower of an AR (much like a pistol which is why polymer is ok as a lower). Using a metal LPK in a poly lower is perfectly fine unless you plan to breech doors or other super "tacticool" things with it.

 

The vulnerable part on the lower is cracking it with the upper removed and pullin the trigger allowing the hammer to forcefully strike the receiver at a weaker point. This occurs on aluminum or poly lowers so no advantage there. Much like with pistols, there is aversion to trading metal for plastic until they get it completely right and people slowly begin to accept it. I personally would not take ot over metal since i like to play "tactical timmy" and do move and shoots and such, but my son will soon have one.

 

The weight savings, cost, and acceptable quality are winners for a cheap and useable rifle. I will wait till theyre back to $50-$60, unless surplus arms and ammo remembers they are cheap and get back to $70 and then i will go that way instead for longevity.

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If I may beg to differ, sir. The lower does three things: hold the mag, hold the trigger assy, and hold

the buffer spring. I've no issue with the first two, but where I see a stress concentration is at the

junction between the lower rear pin area, and the buffer spring housing. This, not coincidentally,

is where the videos that I have seen show failure.

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For me, the weight saving is significant. I'm trying to build an AR15 to get under 5 pounds unloaded with optics. The polymer lowers are like half a pound lighter than conventional forged lowers. That's making getting to my goal much easier and less expensive.

That's easy dude, try for 4#! You can do 5# pretty easy with NFA lower, 14" pencil barrel w/pinned lightweight FH, M4 stock, larue gas block, carbon float handguard. Im not sure if the ARUL stock actually saves weight over the plain M4 extendable.

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For me, the weight saving is significant. I'm trying to build an AR15 to get under 5 pounds unloaded with optics. The polymer lowers are like half a pound lighter than conventional forged lowers. That's making getting to my goal much easier and less expensive.

That's easy dude, try for 4#! You can do 5# pretty easy with NFA lower, 14" pencil barrel w/pinned lightweight FH, M4 stock, larue gas block, carbon float handguard. Im not sure if the ARUL stock actually saves weight over the plain M4 extendable.

 

Well I'm going to try and go as light as I reasonably can. I have one of the old style CAR stocks on it right now and that does save several ounces over an M4 collapsible. Getting any specific parts right now is still a major roadblock as most everything is still out of stock. Building it in 7.62x39 further complicates things because I'm getting the feeling that most all production of barrels and bolts are gonna be fill 5.56 first until things die down. Luckily I'm just spending a little bit each month on parts and not trying to get it all at once, so it'll probably be before the end of the summer before I have everything put together.

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For me, the weight saving is significant. I'm trying to build an AR15 to get under 5 pounds unloaded with optics. The polymer lowers are like half a pound lighter than conventional forged lowers. That's making getting to my goal much easier and less expensive.

 

Sounds like a reasonable goal. but if I wanted to shave 3 pounds that badly I'd just get circumcised! :)

 

(I couldn't resist!!!!)

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