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FilesCreekMafia

Newly converted, light primer strikes

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I just finished the conversion on my .308, I took it to the range this week to try it out. Out of 40 rounds I had 10 light primer strikes. Before the conversion I ran about 100 rounds through it with no issues. I reused the factory main spring during the conversion. I unloaded the weapon removed the dust cover and cycled the bolt to get an idea of what was going on. When the hammer is released and strikes the firing pin It has about a 1/16th of travel left in the pin. I am going to remove the bolt and check the firing pin for obstructions. Beyond that any ideas? I thought of getting an aftermarket main spring but from what Ive read they are softer than the original. Thanks for any advise.

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Compare the shape of your replacement hammer to the original. It may be a manufacturing defect in the hammer.

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What FCG are you using? Can you substitue for the factory hammer. Is there enough cough cough American made parts to do this? I'd try that use your tapco trigger or whatever it is and try the factory hammer with all factory springs and do a safety check. I used the factory hammer on my conversion and it works great.

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What hammer are you using? Is it hitting the crossbar/rivet? I would use the original shim it with a washer if you leave out the BHO.

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Looks like you also have a problem with the hammer and trigger surfaces not making very good contact. This can happen sometimes in the .308 because many of them have an overly wide, out of spec trigger cutout in the receiver, that can let the trigger drift sideways. Mine actually locked up the rifle entirely once because of this. About the only ways to really fix this, are to add metal to the sides of the cutout through welding, or use some sort of spacers on the pin on either side of the trigger to locate it more positively. Both are kind of a pain in the ass but the first is a one time, permanent fix. Following are before and after pictures of my .308 showing the gap, and then where I tigged in a little extra metal on each side to eliminate the slop.

 

308redo1.jpg

 

308redo2.jpg

 

308redo3.jpg

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Mafia I would at a min take a dremel to that hammer and cut down on that crossmember contact.

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Yeah I took a dremel and took a little off of the crossmember pin and the front of the hammer where it was making contact.Then I took a sharpie and went over the pin and hammer where it was hitting and put the bolt and recoil spring back in and cycled it several times to make sure it wasnt hitting anymore. After that I had no more issues with it. The trigger group I used came from Dinzag and it came with a washer I placed on the right side of the FCG in between the trigger and BHO lever. Hopefully it is straight now.

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Cool. If it were me I wouldn't have ground the cross member. That's HARD to replace. Hammer easy to replace.

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Cool. If it were me I wouldn't have ground the cross member. That's HARD to replace. Hammer easy to replace.

 

It's just a rivet in a tube. Piece of cake. 8^)

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Piece of cake compared to changing a hammer? I would t think it was be nearly as easy.

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Ohh man, your rifle do as you please. But, newbies DO NOT GRIND ON YOUR CROSS MEMBER, unless you can put another rivet in on your own when it was a pointless avoidable action in the first place. Good luck with you rifle Mafia :facepalm:.....

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Piece of cake compared to changing a hammer? I would t think it was be nearly as easy.

 

I was just being sarcastic. Of course the hammer should be relieved to clear the cross member, not the other way around.

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Yeah the hammer is very easy to grind down. You really shouldn't be grinding on structural parts of the rifle when removable parts can easily be altered amazing.gif

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I'm also having a problem with light primer strikes. I checked to see if the hammer is hitting cross member and it seems clear. The hammer is also flush with the firing pin housing (don't really know the technical term for this) I will attach some pics. Any chance the firing pin is to short? There is a little abnormal wear on the firing pin where the hammer hits. Can anyone provide me with precision measurements (using something that can read in .001 in) of their pin? One thing to add its has gotten progressively worse (misfire almost every other round).

 

Running tapco FCG and a JTE power spring.

post-45155-0-49188600-1371513866_thumb.jpg

post-45155-0-87932200-1371513879_thumb.jpg

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Tune your jte spring. I had the same issue initailly in my .223. I needed to bend the arms of the springs about a 1/4 of an inch. I made the bend in the middle of the spring arms. Post better pics of your firing pin.(if you can remove it) .. if its deformed it maybe to short. If your still having issues after tuning spring take it out and replace with your oem one. Hope i helped

Edited by cguiro

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There is a little abnormal wear on the firing pin where the hammer hits. Can anyone provide me with precision measurements (using something that can read in .001 in) of their pin? One thing to add its has gotten progressively worse (misfire almost every other round).

 

Yeah, that sucks. How much that sucks cannot possibly be overstated...

 

My Romy kitbuild rifle developed an identical problem and I changed out all manner of springs, and even installed a high zoot Red Star trigger kit before I discovered that the rear end of the firing pin had been peened over like that. When I inspected my brother's rifle ("sister" build of the same year Romy kit on same brand receiver) I found that it was well on its way to having the same problem, although it was not yet misfiring. We were able to fix both rifles simply by installing new surplus Polish firing pins.

 

Unfortunately, to the best of my knowledge, nobody sells a replacement firing pin for the Saiga .308... See my first statement above.

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If I can figure out how to easily pound out the retaining pin on my bolt I'll get a good measurement. I've only fired about 200-500 rounds from my gun and other than that's it's new.

 

If you must do something you could weld up some material onto the back of the pin and mill it down.

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Why not remove the firing pin and slowly remove some material to the collar so that the hammer can push the firing pin further. I have done this on a 308 ar that was giving light primer strikes to milsurp

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Thanks for the replies guys.

 

Why not remove the firing pin and slowly remove some material to the collar so that the hammer can push the firing pin further. I have done this on a 308 ar that was giving light primer strikes to milsurp

 

This is what I'm leaning towards, seems like easiest route.

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Remember that the firing pin is an inertial type.

Meaning that it is made to sit below the bolt face when the hammer is lowered on it. Only a solid strike will fire the round.

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There is a little abnormal wear on the firing pin where the hammer hits. Can anyone provide me with precision measurements (using something that can read in .001 in) of their pin? One thing to add its has gotten progressively worse (misfire almost every other round).

 

Yeah, that sucks.  How much that sucks cannot possibly be overstated...

 

My Romy kitbuild rifle developed an identical problem and I changed out all manner of springs, and even installed a high zoot Red Star trigger kit before I discovered that the rear end of the firing pin had been peened over like that.  When I inspected my brother's rifle ("sister" build of the same year Romy kit on same brand receiver) I found that it was well on its way to having the same problem, although it was not yet misfiring.  We were able to fix both rifles simply by installing new surplus Polish firing pins.

 

Unfortunately, to the best of my knowledge, nobody sells a replacement firing pin for the Saiga .308...  See my first statement above.

 

I sell replacement pins for the S308.  Contact me at Cerephim at gmail dot com

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