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GUYS,
NOTHING FANCY NOR PRETTY, JUST WHAT I DID TO MINE.......
OTHER THAN FINALIZING THE EXACT PLACEMENT OF THE LIGHT AND LASER, IN RELATIONSHIP TO THE GRIP POD, I THINK I'M ABOUT DONE HERE.
I MAY AT SOME POINT GO BACK WITH THE PARABELLUM ARMAMENT RAILED TOP COVER FOR THE OPTIC, FOR WEIGHT SAVING AND LOW-PROFILE, BUT THAT'LL BE AFTER I GET IT DIALED IN FOR ACCURACY.
ORIGINALLY HAD THE KALINKA MOUNT ON IT, THEN WENT WITH THE PARABELLUM RAILED TOP COVER, AND AFTER A BIT, ACCURACY WENT TO CRAP. THINKING, INCORRECTLY, AS IT TURNS OUT, THAT IT WAS A PROBLEM WITH THE PARABELLUM UNIT, I REPLACED THE KALINKA, AND IN THE PROCESS OF LASER ZEROING IT, FOUND THAT THE PROBLEM WAS ACTUALLY THAT THE PIECE-OF-CRAP 1X-4X KONUS SCOPE HAD COME APART INSIDE.
DITCHED THE KONUS AND USED A MID-'70's VINTAGE LEUPOLD 16X THAT I'D USED ON A PERSONAL M7OO VARMINT .308 FOR ANY-ANY MATCHES WHILE SHOOTING FOR 2ND MARDIV.
YES, THE 16X IS A BIT MUCH, BUT THIS IS STILL A TEST BED ACCURACY-WISE AND IS SURE A HELP FOR 60YR+ EYES.
THE FIELD-OF-VIEW IS TOO NARROW FOR ANYTHING QUICK AND CLOSE; WOULDN'T MIND FINDING AN OLD ORIGINAL WEAVER T-10, WITH MAYBE A 45 DEGREE OFFSET SPARC OR FF III FOR CLOSE-UP.
A WORD ON THE INSTALL OF THE CAROLINA SHOOTERS SUPPLY FOREND.
FOR THE TENON ON THE REAR OF THE FOREND TO GO COMPLETELY INSIDE ITS HOME IN THE FRONT OF THE RECEIVER A MILL CUT OF .200" DOWN FROM THE TOP SURFACE OF THE TENON, AND .217" IN FROM THE END OF THE TENON MUST BE MADE, TO CLEAR THE BOTTOM OF THE FRONT TRUNNION.
YOU'LL ALSO MOST LIKELY HAVE TO SHAVE A FEW THOUSANDTHS OFF OF EITHER SIDE OF THE TENON TO GET IT TO FIT, LEFT/RIGHT,
INTO THE RECEIVER; NOT MUCH, MAYBE .003-.005 WITH A FINE-CUT FILE, UNTIL YOU CAN JUST BUMP IT IN WITH THE TENDER APPLICATION OF A 1LB RUBBER MALLET.
TEMPORARILY INSTALL THE LOWER HALF OF THE BARREL CLAMP WHILE DOING THIS BUMP FITTING, AS IT WILL RIDE THE O.D. OF THE BARREL AND HELP GUIDE THE FOREND STRAIGHT INTO THE RECEIVER.
THESE MEASUREMENTS ARE ON MY VEPR, YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY.................IT IS AN AK.
THANK GOD FOR HAVING A FRIEND WHO WORKS AT A MACHINE SHOP. YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE.....))
ALSO, OPPOSED TO WHAT THE DIRECTIONS SAY, THAT COME WITH IT, HERE'S THE BEST WAY TO FIT THE BARREL CLAMP:
WITH THE FOREND NOW FITTED TO THE RECEIVER, OBSERVE WHERE THE FRONT SIDE OF THE LOWER HALF OF THE BARREL CLAMP IS ON THE BARREL, CAREFULLY SCRIBE A LINE ON THE TOP OF THE BARREL THAT LINES UP WITH THIS, USING A LEAD PENCIL.
NOW, REMOVE THE FOREND, AND THE BOTTOM HALF OF THE BARREL CLAMP FROM THE FOREND.
ASSEMBLE THE BARREL CLAMP ON THE BARREL, USING ALL FOUR SCREWS. ONLY TIGHTEN THE SCREWS UNTIL ITS SNUG, BUT CAN STILL BE MOVED, PERHAPS WITH THE GENTLE PURSUASION OF A PIECE OF 1/4" DOWELL ROD AND A 1OZ PLASTIC HAMMER.
NO LOCTITE YET!
WITH THE BARREL CLAMP ASSEMBLED TO THE BARREL, LINED UP WITH YOUR PREVIOUS PENCIL MARK, AND WITH THE FOREND SCREW HOLE AT AS CLOSE TO 6 O'CLOCK AS YOU CAN EYEBALL IT, REINSTALL THE FOREND, TAKING CARE NOT TO DISTURB THE PLACEMENT OF THE CLAMP.
WITH THE FOREND INSTALLED, OBSERVE HOW CLOSE YOU ARE LINED UP WITH THE SCREW HOLE IN THE FOREND, AND THE SCREW HOLE IN THE CLAMP.
THIS IS WHERE THE DOWEL ROD AND 1OZ. HAMMER COME IN. IF YOU'RE OFF A BIT YOU CAN MAKE SMALL ADJUSTMENTS WITH THESE. YOU MAY NEED A 1/8" DOWEL TO GET IN THROUGH THE SLOTS IF YOU HAVE TO MAKE RADIAL ADJUSTMENTS.
CONFIRM THAT EVERYTHING IS LINED UP BY INSTALLING THE FOREND SCREW. NO LOCTITE (BUT WE'RE GETTING CLOSE).
ONCE YOU'RE COMFORTABLE THAT EVERY THING IS WHERE IT SHOULD BE (MEASURE TWICE/CUT ONCE PRINCIPLE), REMOVE THE FOREND, AGAIN, WITHOUT DISTURBING THE BARREL CLAMP.
NOW, TIGHTEN THE SCREWS AS COMFORTABLY AS THEY WILL GO, GOING CORNER TO CORNER LIKE WHEEL LUGNUTS, AND ALSO INSURING THAT THE CAP IS ON STRAIGHT, NOT COCKED TO EITHER SIDE.
NOW, REMOVE ONE SCREW FROM THE BARREL CLAMP, AND WITH A PIPE CLEANER WETTED WITH 91% ALCOHOL, DEGREASE THE BORE AND THREADS FOR SAID SCREW IN THE BARREL CLAMP. USING THE SAME PIPE CLEANER, DEGREASE THE THREADS OF THE SCREW. WITH CANNED AIR, BLOW DRY/REMOVE PIPE CLEANER FUZZ FROM BOTH.
APPLY THE STRENGTH LOCTITE OF YOUR CHOICE TO THE SCREW THREADS, AND NOW RACK IT DOWN.
GO TO THE SCREW ON THE OPPOSITE CORNER AND REPEAT THE PROCESS, THEN THE ONE ACROSS FROM IT, THEN THE FINAL ONE ON THE OPPOSITE CORNER.
DEGREASE THE SCREW HOLE IN THE BOTTOM OF THE BARREL CLAMP, AND THE SCREW; BLOW DRY BOTH , APPLY LOCTITE, AND TIGHTEN 'ER DOWN.
YER DONE.
OH, BTW...............AHEM....................IF YOU'RE PLANNING TO APPLY ANY RAILS TO THE FOREND, YOU MIGHT WANT TO DO THAT, AND GET THEM AND ANY ACCESSORIES SITUATED IN THEIR FINAL POSITION(S) BEFORE LOCTITING THAT FOREND SCREW DOWN.
I'M JUS' SAYIN'.....
JESS

 

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7.62X54R VEPR 20" BBL.
PRIMARY WEAPONS FSC-47 MUZZLE BRAKE, CAROLINA SHOOTING SUPPLY FOREND,
GRIP POD, OLIGHT M20-X WARRIOR 500 LUMENS, SGM 10RND. MAG, KALINKA BP-02
LOW RISE SCOPE MOUNT, LEUPOLD 16X, HOGUE GRIP WITH FINGER GROOVES
GROUND DOWN, KREBS #46 BUTTSTOCK ADAPTER, ACE FOLDING STOCK WITH 1" PAD AND CHEEK RISER
TROY PUSH BUTTON SLING SWIVEL RECEPTICLE, DAMAGE USA LOW-BUTTON SLING SWIVEL,
ARMAGEDDON GEAR INSTANTLY ADJUSTABLE BUNGEE SLING.

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KREBS SAFETY, NC STAR GREEN LASER.

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Hoo-Rah! That's one sweet mo-chine Jess!. Went shootin' with a friend of mine today, and I told him I was Up in the air" about building me either a .308 or x'54 Vepr with 20" bbl. I think your post just made my decision. Looks awesome, good job!

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