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Disappointed with 5.45 x 39 energy transfer


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Okay, went back to the range a while back and decided to shoot a gallon of water in a milk jug. BIG ASS KABOOM! The entry whole was tiny as usual. The exit was the whole back half of the jug. I guess it works as a defensive round. But now....I have another issue. At 30 yards, my front sight had to be adjusted all the way to the left to hit bullseye. It was not like this prior to threading. Any ideas and suggestions? Thread is 14 x 1 left hand.

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Hmm maybe more details, something aint right.

Unless the bullet is somehow contacting the brake, but cant see that as very repeatable POI.

 

Might want to move to the 5.45 section.

 

Side note I am sure has already been mentioned, the 545 was developed to be a full auto round. It was in response to the 223.

Its not going to give 308 results on a round by round basis. It was called the poison round for good reason by the Afghanistans unlucky enough to know why.

Edited by Rhodes1968
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Part of being a gun owner, you should be informed. If you've looked at any ballistics data of the 7N6, you'll see that it won't tumble until about 2". Do you expected to encounter home invaders no thicker than a tube of caulk? Also, you can feed it Hornady V-Max or some SP. Regardless of what firearm you'll use for SD, would you really want FMJ for in the house? The answer is no.

 

For a quick review of Wolf SP: http://www.akfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=136964&highlight=wolf+5.45x39

 

If you say "But I can't find VMax or Wolf". Understood. Ammo is hard to find right now. I bought what I have pre-panic and though I have plenty of 7n6 and Wolf SP, I'm stingy on the VMax. Luckily for practice, the VMax shoots same POI as 7N6 for my rifle, and VMax is my round of choice for 5.45x39 home defense.

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Not saying that it's a shitty round at all. Just stating that I was surprised that the round failed to transfer any noticeable energy to the target I was shooting at. It just made me wonder that if I had to use this weapon in my home for example, would the rounds simply pass through the assailant? I can't find any sp or hp in 5.45 x 39 and not really sure that I would want any. I've got plenty of 7.62 x 39 hp and 12 ga buck and slug which I know will put a big man down instantly. Too bad they don't make a Saiga in 45 acp that could be SBR'd.

 

The human body is much thicker than a caulk tube. Even though 5.45 tumbles quickly, a caulk tube's width is not enough.

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I will have to post pics of the rounds I recovered. Many of them were fairly intact but flattened and curved like a banana. If that is what they do after penetrating a few inches then this round truly is devastating. As for the front sight, I decided to apply a little rubber mallet treatment to see if I could massage a 1 to 2 degree rotation to the left so I can center the front post. It still has the stock front sight that is peened on. Any of you think that threading the barrel caused it to rotate a degree or two to the right?

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I will have to post pics of the rounds I recovered. Many of them were fairly intact but flattened and curved like a banana. If that is what they do after penetrating a few inches then this round truly is devastating. As for the front sight, I decided to apply a little rubber mallet treatment to see if I could massage a 1 to 2 degree rotation to the left so I can center the front post. It still has the stock front sight that is peened on. Any of you think that threading the barrel caused it to rotate a degree or two to the right?

Did you look to see if you were getting any bullet strikes with your muzzle attachment? If not, Then its hard to say. Did you remove your FSB at all, or prior to threading? What kind of device are your running on the end of it?

 

Try taking off the muzzle brake or FH and shoot it and see if it changes your POI.

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Didn't remove the fsb. Using a tapco 74 style directly on the barrel that I threaded. No marks or sparks so pretty sure there are no bullet strikes. I could remove and try another style of brake, but not sure that would really help.

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Did you ever figure out if you were shooting 5n7 or 7n6 or maybe some other odd ball crap round like wolf? The good stuff is all corrosive and the bullet is designed to tumble. You will notice that if you shoot something close range with anything high speed it will poke a hole in it. Barrel length and twist rate make a considerable distance with this round as well. It was designed to tumble, not mushroom.

 

Were you shooting the same ammo before and after you put on a flash hider or compensator? So many variables it is hard to tell. Any attachments you put on your barrel will change harmonics and the point of impact. Hell, it could even be that you had it set up to compensate for the recoil that was happening and once the recoil was reduced, your shooting changed. The surplus stuff has a nice tail and comes out hot. If it's way off at a short distance, I would check for copper on your brake. You might be just touching somwhere and it may even be so faint that you have to paint the inside with whiteout to see if you are hitting. Hope that is not the case.

 

The 5.45 can be very high speed if your gear is squared away. I've yet to find a commercial round that does not suck. But, there are truck loads of surplus so it's not an issue.

Edited by Stryker0946
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Update, I inverted the rifle and placed it on a leveled surface last night to check for fsb cant. Sure enough, right side cant. Broke out the rubber mallet and wood and started the treatment. Now both hood sides are almost touching the table. Had to stop because the wife needed me. YES, it was worth stopping. Will finish the project tonight.

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After what seemed like forever, I give up. I can't seem to get the fsb to budge one bit. I've seen the instructions on replacing the fsb with a bulgy one and it seems pretty straight forward. Anyone recommend a source that has them in stock?

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Decided to try her out again this weekend. Apparently all the pounding helped as my front post is no longer all the way the left, but its still pretty far left. Any suggestions? Keep pounding?

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Just replace the FSB with the proper unit. The FSB on there now is dimpled, so you're going to have to pound the ever loving shit out of it to get it to move, if it moves anymore at all. Better off just cutting it off and putting a Bulgy FSB on.

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