Jump to content

reloading/molding x39 and 308


Recommended Posts

Hi guys, i am pretty new to the idea of reloading and molding ammo/bullets but my neighbor has started to mold his own 9mm and 00 buck. He said that hed let me use his stuff for free provided i have all i need. Minus cases, primers, lead, and powder, what would i need? Im certain ill need a mold and a die but past that im totally lost. Any way someone could gimme a list of stuff to pick up (tool wise) before i start this little adventure? Thanks again for the input.

Link to post
Share on other sites

...would a 7.62x39 set of dies work for. 308 win? Or do i need two different sets? Thought id get a reply by now...

 

No, in general you will need a seperate set of dies for each caliber that you reload.

 

Im also seeing that dies are being advertized as .312.... thought it was .311.... any help here?

 

Nominal bore diameter for 7.62x39 should be .310" but you should slug your bore to know for sure. With cast bullets, you will want to size them to about .001" greater than bore diameter. Since your .308 will most likely need .309" cast bullets, plan on sizing to different diameters for each caliber, even if you are using the same mold for both. Also be aware that some Ruger Mini-30s and possibly other US made x39 rifles were built with .308 bores.

 

Also, before you buy anything else, plan on picking up one or more reloading manuals and studying until you know the basic processes, before you actually try loading anything. I highly recommend sticking to factory made, jacketed bullets to start with if you are a beginning reloader.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Haven't bought a thing for reloading yet, and ill borrow a manual from my neighbor and read up. He is pretty experienced it seems and can help me but he doesnt reload rifle rounds. Im surprised youd have to slug the barrel in order to load cast bullets...figured there was a standard diameter for each caliber.

 

Eta: neighbor hasnt recently started, i recently learned he reloaded lol

Link to post
Share on other sites

The RCBS 7.62x39 dies that I bought came with 2 neck expanders, 1 for the .310 size bullets, one for .308 size bullets, but I've yet to load any of my brass, most of the loads that I see, for the powders I have, are all coming up with a compressed load to get the bullets to proper FPS, and I don't like a compressed load. If I can ever get some AA1680, i'm going to try that. Maybe also take a look at the RCBS AR series .308 dies, they solved some of my chambering problems with the AR10. I just loaded about 300 .308 rounds this weekend to play with. Ran them thru chrono and was getting about 2750 fps out of the 16" barrel.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Most of the 7.62x39 empties that will come your way are primed with Berdan primers, not the Boxer primers that are standard here in the US. The tooling necessary to remove a Berdan primer is different from that for Boxer primer removal. A lot of people are not willing to fuss with Berdan primers, because it does add one step, and because the propler Berdan primer has in the past been sometimes difficult to find. I've been reloading Berdan brass since the 1970's, so it is no big thing to me.

 

I also cast 7.62x39 bullets. If your rifle is to cycle, you will have to use grooved, lubricated & gas checked bullets. A lot of 7.62x39 rifles will shoot better with cast than they do with ComBloc ammo, because the bullets shoot better.

 

You probably won't save any money if you don't buy in bulk, and scrounge everything you can. Now that car wheelweights are mostly zinc, Lead will be much harder to scrounge. Cast bullet quality is vastly improved by the addition of a little Tin, which has always

 

http://www.dave-cushman.net/shot/berdan_supplies_dimensions.html

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.frfrogspad.com/primers.gif&imgrefurl=http://www.frfrogspad.com/miscelle.htm&h=207&w=400&sz=3&tbnid=ZMIaWpRM2DYz4M:&tbnh=90&tbnw=174&zoom=1&usg=__6T1bfkvYCbOnNBtRf1MLYyob4vI=&docid=VbtDSbi92-Z0qM&sa=X&ei=CCaqUdP6HvG80QHL8IGwBQ&sqi=2&ved=0CD0Q9QEwAg&dur=471

http://www.dagammo.com/shop/non-corrosive-berdan-primer-c-7/kv24n-large-rifle-berdan-primers-5000-primers-p-46.html?zenid=ac5538399432ae796351a3ed3b715686

http://www.theakforum.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=195283&p=1530296&hilit=NuJudge#p1530296

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks alot AZG! That thread is so informative it makes me wonder why it isnt stickied! My neighbor has alot of what ill need but in truth it kinda complicates matters because i have to pick out what ill need to use his setup. Im not really looking into reloading from a cost standpoint but rather a 'what if the whole system collapses--i wanna keep feeding my rifles' standpoint lol. Whats this about grooves on the bullet? Hadnt heard that before. I have a decent stash of brass case boxer primed ammo, just need to find a brass catcher for the x39 and s 308 so im not lookin for em in the next zip code lol. Hopefully soon ill be able to gather the necessary items to begin this venture, i probably will still pick your brains over it until i feel i got it totally figured out. :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

There are some interesting newer coating methods being developed which eliminate the need for lube, lube grooves and gas checks. Worth a read. It definitely reduces the cost and labor per round while solving leading and smoke problems. IMO it could make the difference for whether it is worth the bother to cast for loads like .223.

 

Dolomite Supafly on this fourm has been filling me in on his experiments with it.http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?87768-lead-bullets-coated-with-polymer-paint&p=2241813#post2241813

 

I hope to play with casting and loading for 308 and 30/06 poly coated later this summer. maybe some non checked soft lead .357 mag loads too.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

My uncle that's machinist has made done dies for making your own gas checks from an ali can. Pretty cool. It cuts them then crimps them into a that bottle cap shape.

 

I think you could use the same mold just get one sized .312 and then you would need dies to size the boolits to each .308 and x39.

 

You would also need some actual reloading dies for each caliber.

 

If you want to make it all easier just buy bullets, copper jacketed lead core bullets, just look around for the cheapest you can get in bulk buy a few thousand of them, makes it much easier. If you using lead I'd think you would need an extra neck expander die as I know a regular die set doesn't come with one, I'll bet you could use the same expander for both though. Also lately it's a pain in the ass to get good lead and you will need harder lead for rifle boolits not solid lead that's soft you will get a bunch of leading even with gas checks.

Link to post
Share on other sites

That was why I linked the thing about poly coating methods. People are getting 2700+ FPS with no checks, lube or leading, and can use softer alloys. With less work. Checks are obsolete now.



sizing still matters though.

Link to post
Share on other sites

It adds to it. But you are going to squish it down to spec anyway. I haven't done this yet, but I have been following lots of reports about it. Dolomite has been experimenting with it too and has been keeping me posted.

Link to post
Share on other sites

FYI there are 3 prevailing methods with variations that seem to work well and efficiently. Piglet is cheapest, least complex and newest.

 

1> Buy the Hi-Tek commercial bullet coating from bayoubullets .com when he has it in stock. Follow the directions. fairly similar to the MCC method.

 

2> MCC/Wiederlander method: get two part epoxy based industrial powdercoat, such as is used on industrial machinery. Add Small amounts of HBN.

Tumble. Set on hardware cloth until not tacky. Bake. (repeat x1 ) Size.

 

3> Piglet method: Get normal powdercoat such as is used with a sprayer and electrostatic. Harbor freight sells it for about $5/lb. Rather than spraying, suspend the powder in acetone and swirl the bullets in the suspension. Fish them out.. Set on hardware cloth until not tacky. Bake. (repeat x1). Size.


So i will need the following it seems:
One .312 mold
One 7.62x39 sizer
One 7.62x39 die set
One 308 sizer
One 308 die set
Ez chex maker if you cant avoid gas checks

 

Slug the bore for each gun, and buy a sizer .001" or .002" larger than bore. Lee sizer with the press mounted upside down works well for cheap. But actually measure. My .357" lee sizer dropped .355" until I honed it out to spec.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Easy. Clean the bore very well. Get a solid rod that won't scratch the bore. Most hardware stores will have 1/4" by 30" brass rods for about $7. Then find a relatively soft lead bullet of the nominal bore size or slightly larger, and tap it through. It is ussually easiest to start from the breach side. A shot of lube down the barrel first helps a lot. Then you get a good caliper, or a mic, if you have one, and measure the bullet.

 

A lot of people use buckshot for the "slug" if it is too small, smack it with a hammer and it becomes wider...

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Chatbox

    Load More
    You don't have permission to chat.
×
×
  • Create New...