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King Armory Puck / Piston


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I have one. It works.* It is the original booster puck. For a long time it was the only one. MD is pretty much a copy for less money. The others are just trying to do the same thing in slightly different ways.

 

*Works as much as a booster puck can. i.e. if you have a gun that will FTE 5 shells out of a federal 100 pack 1 1/8 oz 1200 FPS, the KA puck or others will get you to 100%. However if you have a gun that will FTE maybe 1/8 or 1/10, probably not.

 

OR, you have a gun that runs 100% with that ammo, with stick mags, the puck might be enough to over come the additional friction of a full drum mag.

 

If you don't need a boost at all and your gun is already 100% Then buy a puck that replicates OEM just for a cheap easy 922r part. Tapco =$8 at MAA last I checked, MD =$10 KVAR =$? All the same thing. It's a very simple part, and hard to get wrong. (e-tek managed though.)

 

More than this, and you will need to do proper reliability service addressing friction/ gas balance. See the links in my sig for info on that topic.



IMO, since there is such a narrow band where a booster puck is useful, you may as well just plan on doing proper service anyway. Why leave your gun on the knife's edge between 100% reliable and "Jams every once-in-a-while."

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I sent dmoss tac 47 manual plug he said it is running better. I agree. All pucks do the same thing. There is the md booster puck which adds some extra boost but never messed with it. I have the css puck works fine. I still have that 2-3/4 slring they send with reliability kit. Its sitting in the bottom of a shoe box. Kvar makes a puck for like 20 $ same as a regular oem puck just has a nitrate coating. I so believe with the css puck the extra groove does help scoop up more garbage... but im trying to get dmoss to do a little relrofile and polish and that will probably fix the problem without the puck.. the css was a way tighter fit which saves you a little more gas...

 

Gunfun. How do you clean your gas tube. My looks like skin peeling off a snake and like a melted l plastic bag inside of it could I slap a brass brush on a hand drill and slick it up with some solvent and zap it a few times?

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I have a KA puck had a CSS and factory the ka is the only one that after a couple hundred rounds will still move in gas system.

They advertise less maintenance and I believe it to be true.

Went to clean my s12s the other day and ka puck came out with little effort where the factory took some work to get out.

 

I will be putting a KA puck in the other shortly also just need to lighten load on extra parts.

 

As for helping cycle couldn't tell you both mine run like a bat out of hell.

Thanks to Jack Travers and Jeff at az Armory

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Css ouck is already a tight fit. When u drop it down in the tube gets hung sometimes by the threads. Few taps around it with your finger falls it. Moves freely. Helps get the most out of your gas for sure. After 400-500 rounds and cleaning it the few days later it requires a coiple of taps with a brass rod. Never had a problem with getting it out though.. means its working right!! Haha

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I sent dmoss tac 47 manual plug he said it is running better. I agree. All pucks do the same thing. There is the md booster puck which adds some extra boost but never messed with it. I have the css puck works fine. I still have that 2-3/4 slring they send with reliability kit. Its sitting in the bottom of a shoe box. Kvar makes a puck for like 20 $ same as a regular oem puck just has a nitrate coating. I so believe with the css puck the extra groove does help scoop up more garbage... but im trying to get dmoss to do a little relrofile and polish and that will probably fix the problem without the puck.. the css was a way tighter fit which saves you a little more gas...

Gunfun. How do you clean your gas tube. My looks like skin peeling off a snake and like a melted l plastic bag inside of it could I slap a brass brush on a hand drill and slick it up with some solvent and zap it a few times?

You know them brass colored metal brush attachments you get with a cleaning kit? First saturate the gas tube with BRAKE cleaner then scrub the crap out with that metal brush (12 gauge size). Then clean up with patches.post-46357-0-33692700-1369086367_thumb.jpg

 

I use the same method to clean the Saiga rifle gas tube.

 

ETA: I should add that this is just how I do it. I'm sure there are 18 other ways to clean up your gas/piston tube.

Edited by dubya
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Armor- The only brand I have ever heard of failing due to marring was E-tac. their QC was very poor. Their design was bad too. I wouldn't worry about any of the other surviving brands failing.

 

I'd generrally say that MD is a clone minus the sharp edge. KA is not patented, and he used to charge $40 for a very simple part that costs almost nothing to make. So I don't fault MD much for selling about the same design for $12. That said, MD doesn't have a lot of room to complain about his drum getting knocked off, when he makes slightly altered clones of KA's puck and gunfixer's plug...

 

My KA puck was a tighter fit than OEM, which I think helps. It does make it very hard to get out if I run the gun many hundreds of rounds between cleanings. I was actually concerned that it might be shaving the threads on removal. the leading edge of the cupped face seemed to catch more after use, and was sharp. So I dressed it lightly with a diamond hone to take the edge off. It works better now, but is a very tight install and removal.

 

Gas block bores vary. there used to be a lot of threads discussing that issue.

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