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yes, it will work only thing the little nipple I that scratches the reciver is in different place so it would put new scratch in diferent place

 

a. you can file the nipple off or bend end out little

 

b. buy right one same manfucture from CSS . but out stock right now

 

c. keep your own and mod it and add solar tactical's extended safety lever, like $18.00 shipped

Edited by bobabuee
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Yep. I suggest you make sure that the tab is level with the floor of the receiver when in the "fire" position. That will be the most comfortable, and looks good. People who see my IZ 108 are generally suprised that the tab is not factory unless they are familiar with AKs. And you know you will still only have one scratch on the side. After doing a few of these, I think a tab that sticks out aprox 3/8" is the best compromise between comfortable finger rest, enough purchase to wrestle a stiff safety, and not sticking out so far that it will catch on things. You will need a cobalt drill, because these safeties are harder than the barrel. When you are done, heat it back up and quench it to get the spring back, and then tweak it to the desired amount of tension.

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Yep. I suggest you make sure that the tab is level with the floor of the receiver when in the "fire" position. That will be the most comfortable, and looks good. People who see my IZ 108 are generally suprised that the tab is not factory unless they are familiar with AKs. And you know you will still only have one scratch on the side. After doing a few of these, I think a tab that sticks out aprox 3/8" is the best compromise between comfortable finger rest, enough purchase to wrestle a stiff safety, and not sticking out so far that it will catch on things. You will need a cobalt drill, because these safeties are harder than the barrel. When you are done, heat it back up and quench it to get the spring back, and then tweak it to the desired amount of tension.

Wait. Heat "it" back up? You mean to heat and quench the homemade finger tab for the safety lever, NOT the safety lever itself? Just want to clarify for some newb that might compromise the "safety" of his safety lever. I guess they are relatively easy to replace...

 

OP: Try to make one similar to GunFun's for yourself! If you don't like the end result, buy a Solar Tactical tab. I like mine a lot. super_man.gif

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What I meant was that annealing the lever portion of the safety prior to drilling makes drilling easier. When done, reheat it to Hot Cherry Red, and drop it in water to get the spring back. Cobalt can probably allow you to skip the anneal and quench, but the first one I did was without cobalt and the anneal was very necessary. I think I burned up (3) 1/8" bits. As far as function, I believe it would work fine even as mild steel. The safetys on Zastava rifles feel like mild sheet steel to me, and they work fine for as ugly as they are.

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I see. Thanks for the clarification!

 

I used the cobalt bit I ordered from Carolina Shooter Supply to drill conversion rivets. It cut through the lever like butter; No need to repaint. I know the notch is not being discussed, but dang these things are hard! I tried to use a Dremel to grind the BHO notch I put in my lever and got nowhere. If used carefully (EYE PROTECTION) and not flexed sideways, a cut-off disk worked well to cut a rough notch then feathered around to smooth and shape the edges.

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True, but a few people who got that model have found that the detente was a little off. Not Krebs' fault. I suspect the levers that came with their saigas were just a bit of spec. I have seen that part as cheap as $45, but more often $65-85.

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