bigd1979 23 Posted May 31, 2013 Report Share Posted May 31, 2013 http://www.midwayusa.com/product/137198/krebs-custom-guns-mk-vi-enhanced-safety-selector-lever-for-ak-47-steel-matte Will this work for the saiga 12 ? Or is it jus for the rifles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bobabuee 29 Posted May 31, 2013 Report Share Posted May 31, 2013 (edited) yes, it will work only thing the little nipple I that scratches the reciver is in different place so it would put new scratch in diferent place a. you can file the nipple off or bend end out little b. buy right one same manfucture from CSS . but out stock right now c. keep your own and mod it and add solar tactical's extended safety lever, like $18.00 shipped Edited May 31, 2013 by bobabuee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bigd1979 23 Posted May 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2013 Ok cool thax for all the info if I do order one ill wait for css Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted May 31, 2013 Report Share Posted May 31, 2013 Or skip all that and do it yourself: http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/gallery/album/1114-safety-mod/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bigd1979 23 Posted May 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2013 Hmm I may jus try that this weekend Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted May 31, 2013 Report Share Posted May 31, 2013 Yep. I suggest you make sure that the tab is level with the floor of the receiver when in the "fire" position. That will be the most comfortable, and looks good. People who see my IZ 108 are generally suprised that the tab is not factory unless they are familiar with AKs. And you know you will still only have one scratch on the side. After doing a few of these, I think a tab that sticks out aprox 3/8" is the best compromise between comfortable finger rest, enough purchase to wrestle a stiff safety, and not sticking out so far that it will catch on things. You will need a cobalt drill, because these safeties are harder than the barrel. When you are done, heat it back up and quench it to get the spring back, and then tweak it to the desired amount of tension. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nephilim7 107 Posted June 3, 2013 Report Share Posted June 3, 2013 Yep. I suggest you make sure that the tab is level with the floor of the receiver when in the "fire" position. That will be the most comfortable, and looks good. People who see my IZ 108 are generally suprised that the tab is not factory unless they are familiar with AKs. And you know you will still only have one scratch on the side. After doing a few of these, I think a tab that sticks out aprox 3/8" is the best compromise between comfortable finger rest, enough purchase to wrestle a stiff safety, and not sticking out so far that it will catch on things. You will need a cobalt drill, because these safeties are harder than the barrel. When you are done, heat it back up and quench it to get the spring back, and then tweak it to the desired amount of tension. Wait. Heat "it" back up? You mean to heat and quench the homemade finger tab for the safety lever, NOT the safety lever itself? Just want to clarify for some newb that might compromise the "safety" of his safety lever. I guess they are relatively easy to replace... OP: Try to make one similar to GunFun's for yourself! If you don't like the end result, buy a Solar Tactical tab. I like mine a lot. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted June 3, 2013 Report Share Posted June 3, 2013 What I meant was that annealing the lever portion of the safety prior to drilling makes drilling easier. When done, reheat it to Hot Cherry Red, and drop it in water to get the spring back. Cobalt can probably allow you to skip the anneal and quench, but the first one I did was without cobalt and the anneal was very necessary. I think I burned up (3) 1/8" bits. As far as function, I believe it would work fine even as mild steel. The safetys on Zastava rifles feel like mild sheet steel to me, and they work fine for as ugly as they are. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nephilim7 107 Posted June 3, 2013 Report Share Posted June 3, 2013 I see. Thanks for the clarification! I used the cobalt bit I ordered from Carolina Shooter Supply to drill conversion rivets. It cut through the lever like butter; No need to repaint. I know the notch is not being discussed, but dang these things are hard! I tried to use a Dremel to grind the BHO notch I put in my lever and got nowhere. If used carefully (EYE PROTECTION) and not flexed sideways, a cut-off disk worked well to cut a rough notch then feathered around to smooth and shape the edges. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SGL 530 Posted June 3, 2013 Report Share Posted June 3, 2013 GunFun's mod is probably the best way to go, but in case there are people that just aren't the do-it-yourself type, Krebs also has a model specifically for Saigas with the detent in the correct place. http://www.krebscustom.com/PartsPages/KalashnikovParts.shtml Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted June 3, 2013 Report Share Posted June 3, 2013 True, but a few people who got that model have found that the detente was a little off. Not Krebs' fault. I suspect the levers that came with their saigas were just a bit of spec. I have seen that part as cheap as $45, but more often $65-85. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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