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My gunsmith uses WD to clean/soak a gun then blows it off with compressed air. It won't hurt any wood/plastic finishes. CLP or FP10 for lubrication. I like TriFlow for all sorts of stuff.

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Mobil 1 in all my guns. The thinnest I've found here is 5-20. Works great on everything. I use it on all the moving parts and barrels. I use hoppes 9 to clean.

 

the mobile 1 we use in Honda hybrid cars are 0-20w here at the dealer

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I think it's important to note that one product does not do all.

 

A solvent, while a cleaner, is neither lube, nor protectant.

A grease, while a lube, is not a cleaner, and gets messy when used as a protectant.

An oil, while a protectant, is not a cleaner, and does ok as a lube in most areas, but grease is usually better.

 

I know all the above is obvious, but why do people think one product will excel at all, even WD-40, which

is really none of the above?

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Ok total rookie question here but what exactly does breakfree clp do? Is it a cleaner or a lube? Read thats whats supposed to be used in the saigas, before i came across that lil tidbit i was using hoppes to clean and rem oil to lube, and noticed one has to be quick w the hoppes as itll eat paint lol.

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Lol i knew what the acronym stood for but someone posted that no one product could clean and lube as well.

I think it's important to note that one product does not do all.

 

A solvent, while a cleaner, is neither lube, nor protectant.

A grease, while a lube, is not a cleaner, and gets messy when used as a protectant.

An oil, while a protectant, is not a cleaner, and does ok as a lube in most areas, but grease is usually better.

 

I know all the above is obvious, but why do people think one product will excel at all, even WD-40, which

is really none of the above?

Was just curious to hear.

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Interesting experiment if you want to test how long a product will protect an exposed piece of metal. A blued or parkerized gun barrel would be a better test.

 

CLP also makes a product for long term storage. It will kick the shit out of the WD product. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/821194/break-free-collector-long-term-gun-storage-preservative-gun-oil-4-oz-liquid

 

CLP works best if you season your gear with it. Kinda like how bacon grease seasons a new cast iron pan, the clp will leave a nice coat of teflon on the weapon. Our issued rifles were so seasoned with clp that you could wipe them off with a rag or even hit them up with the scalding hot water of the diswashing station wand if nobody was looking. It takes time for the teflon to fill into the pores. The brake had no treatment to absorb the chemicals. It just sat on top.

 

If you use CLP often, you will find that it works as good or better than most all of the products out there and you don't need several bottles of the stuff to keep your gear high speed and low drag.

 

There are some products out there like frog lube that work immediately, but are not as practical for cleaning, lubricating and protecting all in one.


Of course it can just perhaps not as well as a product made specifically to do either job.

 

I am still thinking the sunlight exposure broke down the CLP based on what we saw.

It had no blue or park to stick to. The teflon was floating or wiped off.

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I use CLP in all my guns. This is some good information Im taking in here. Sounds like Ive been doing it right, I had no idea wd40 wasn't a lubricant, however if you watched the video, they aren't using regular wd40. I don't know the difference in them but Im gonna check it out.

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