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so... where is the 9mm?


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So i recently got a Springfield Armory XDS in 9mm.. while waiting for my permits to come in(damn u nj) i figured i would buy a few hundred to a thousand rounds. So whrre are you guys finding it for a decent price?

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Good luck finding 9mm without over paying still. I last ordered some last summer, Reloading my own now, and even with doing that components are slim to find.

 

Keep checking your local stores including walmart.

Edited by montec
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I found it. It was behind the couch the whole time!

 

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Seriously though. Get set up to make your own. It changes everything. I spent the last couple months having friends over to spend an afternoon and stock them up on 9mm, rather than begging for ammo. Primers and powder are the only things you stay dependent on.

I need to cast up a bunch more though, I am down to about 900 ready to go, and 500 cast, and I want to send some to MSRdiver.

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You might find a friend at the range with a progressive that will let you use his rig. Get a couple of steaks and a case of beer, and bring them over. I think Yeoldetool is in NJ... Maybe he can give you a hand... Solidarity and whatnot.

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I wont buy freedom again. That stuff was dirty and I maybe got 100rds in and I had to clean the dang thing. The stuff I bought before Bvac I could got 400rds before I cleaned it easy, and it didn't cause any malfunctions. Now if only I could get that cheap again.

 

I used to go thru 2-300 rds @ the range to get used to my pistol. Now I sitting just holding on to what I have. I think I'll be making a batch to take up to my parents and try out.

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My reman guy charges 260 a case for 9mm..shoots clean and is a tmj bullet...at that cost im gunna order another case from him lol.

sounds like the way to go....no shipping cost either.

Yea its atlantic arms and ammo if anyone is curious love his 40sw minor... its a blast to shoot and good for training. Email them for a pricing and availibilty

 

 

I wont buy freedom again. That stuff was dirty and I maybe got 100rds in and I had to clean the dang thing. The stuff I bought before Bvac I could got 400rds before I cleaned it easy, and it didn't cause any malfunctions. Now if only I could get that cheap again.

 

I used to go thru 2-300 rds @ the range to get used to my pistol. Now I sitting just holding on to what I have. I think I'll be making a batch to take up to my parents and try out.

Yea the stuff i use is very clean... tmj Also so less lead exposure.
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  • 2 weeks later...
Seriously though. Get set up to make your own. It changes everything. I spent the last couple months having friends over to spend an afternoon and stock them up on 9mm, rather than begging for ammo. Primers and powder are the only things you stay dependent on.

I need to cast up a bunch more though, I am down to about 900 ready to go, and 500 cast, and I want to send some to MSRdiver.

 

I am getting into reloading and reading as much as possible on casting. Do you use different dies for reloading the bullets you cast vs. the jacketed bullets bought from manufacturers? It seems like the molds make bullets that are sliiiightly bigger in diameter and I read that some dies don't like them.

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I haven't been using cast rifle bullets yet. For pistol bullets, I have only done a hundred or so jacketed, and i think any brand is fine for jacketed bullets. I just counted my primer boxes and it looks like I have loaded at least 3400 pistol round in the last few months. So that means I have loaded around 3300 cast pistol bullets. In general, I think any brand of dies you buy are good if they were made in the last 15 years. If you get a good deal, there would generally not be a good reason to change brands. I would choose carbide every time (although I still suggest some lube). Also, some brands offer different shapes of seater plungers to fit different shapes of bullet centered better without denting the bullet. (i.e. RCBS for 45 ACP has one for round, one for flat, and another for HPs)

 

I have RCBS dies for the straight wall revolver cases and 30/06 and Lee dies for 9mm, 40 S&W, 45 ACP (which I have not loaded yet), .380 ACP, and 223 REM.

 

I have found that the RCBS dies have smaller openings, and are touchy about flare. I actually radiused the edge of my .38 Spl Seater and sizing dies because it would catch on the mouth of brass and snag it if the shell wiggled a little in the shell holder or shell plate. They also have a lot more friction than my carbide lee dies, because they are the steel dies rather than carbide. No big deal for these things. My primary annoyance with them is that they tend to work loose and need snugged up regularly. RCBS is supposed to be more precise!? I also found that breaking a decapper pin on case with grit in the flash hole made replacing the pin annoying. Tight flash holes pulled the decapper pin out a few times too. (Lee has a more robust and easier to change decapper, that just pushes out of the way and stick up so you can see it. with RCBS, if the pin breaks or comes out you may not see for a few cases. If loading progressive, this means you will have to pull down several loaded rounds.) The knurled rings with set screws chew up the threads and can make the dies hard to adjust.

 

The lee dies seem to work better for me and with the O-rings they stay in place better too. They can be wiggled a little more by hand, but my ammo seems to be consitent (Hornady has the best locking ring design.) I wish they all had wrench flats, and little marks mostly as a way to gauge adjustments. The lee dies do not seem to hang up on the brass like the RCBS dies. They also are smoother due to the standard carbide. They come with the shell holder, and a scoop I will never use. (and also some starting load data for a bunch of powders)

 

For cast bullets, the Factory Crimp Die [FCD] is controversal. It is designed to make a more uniform crimp while working the brass less, and be a final dimension guarantee for jacketed bullets. A lot of people who hate Lee products buy separately, including Dillon users. It is a very well respected product, particularly for jacketed bullets in rifle calibers. can either solve problems or make them for lead bullets. It squishes down the shell after it is loaded. This can be a bad thing if you have deliberately oversize lead bullets for a couple reasons. 1) it can swage the bullet inside the brass to a smaller dimension. If this is too small for your loose dimensioned bore, you may get leading.2) if the swaging is significant, the brass springs back and the lead does not. This can make loose bullets. I do not think this is a very common problem. The good. The LEE FCD uniforms brass and irons out the occasional cartridges that come out an odd dimension from the other steps or a bullet that is unusually large. It kind of serves a similar purpose to a "max cartridge gauge, in that it can be set to ensure that every cartridge passing though it will chamber. I picked one up for .380 because I had some issues with the case mouth slightly roll crimping using the normal seater/crimper die to crimp, and also occasional thicker brass or bullets sticking when feeding in the pistol. (I was loading SWC bullets which are kind of touchy to acheive reliability.) Since I was running a fat bullet to load for the Ruger LCP bore, the cartridges tended to have a mild hour glass shape. This can be OK, but since I had a few stick while chambering, I got the FCD. adjusting the FCD to do just a light kiss crimp made the few I have made since getting it look like factory taper, but did not appear to be swaging into the bullet significantly. I have not had an opportunity to shoot any of the .380 ammo since I got it, but I think it has likely solved the problems.

 

For .223 or .308 or other rifle rounds for semi -auto guns, you may have heard about full length sizing dies vs. Small Base Dies. If buying RCBS, I would want the small base type. Lee falls somewhere inbetween the two in size. The .223 was cutting it close for chambering well in an M85 PAP, so I would prefer a small base style die. This kind of issue should be researched based on caliber. From the reading I have done, some times one brand has a better profile for one caliber and worse for another...

 

For some rifle bullets, (lead) people get a "Redding M die" which flares the case mouth a little more so as not to shave lead. I believe the seater is also releaved a little more to prevent swaging. I have not used these or needed them.

 

I would give a very strong reccomendation to start with either a lee classic cast turret (if you plan to do large rifle rounds) or the Load master, or both. Even on other brands of single stage or turret presses, I would be inclined to use the Lee AutoDisk powder measure for pistol cases and some carbine rounds. These require a Lee powder through expandeer die, so you may as well buy the whole lee die set for $10 more. Better yet, get the Lee Die set with the Factory Crimp Die.

 

Another specialty die that I think would be a good die set to get is the hornady set that has a spring loaded tube in the seating die. It holds pointy bullets centered better, and makes loading smoother. I would consider picking one of these up for rounds like .308 or .223 where it is trickier to keep the bullet placed while it enters the die.

 

My personal conclusion, is that with the possible exception of some rifle calibers, I will just buy Lee die sets. I will try to get the 4 die set that comes with a carbide sizer, a powder through expander (which I must have to use my powder measure), a seater/crimper, and an additional factory crimp die.

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For .223 or .308 or other rifle rounds for semi -auto guns, you may have heard about full length sizing dies vs. Small Base Dies. If buying RCBS, I would want the small base type. Lee falls somewhere inbetween the two in size. The .223 was cutting it close for chambering well in an M85 PAP, so I would prefer a small base style die. This kind of issue should be researched based on caliber. From the reading I have done, some times one brand has a better profile for one caliber and worse for another...

 

I am using Dillon dies to reload for my .308 Saiga and I strongly recommend them for semis. At full adjustment, they will actually size the case down to smaller than spec, so you have to use a case gauge to get them dialed in. But I have never had to re-adjust the sizer since the first time.

 

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For me it was trying to find small pistol primers. Friend of mine has some 700X powder left over that he doesn't shoot anymore (yes, we have load data for shotgun powders in pistol cases), and a bunch of hard-cast lead I can use for practice ammo. Gotta save the hydrashocks and frangibles for the fighting mags.

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