Mountain Man 20 Posted August 11, 2013 Report Share Posted August 11, 2013 (edited) I am getting close to cutting my .223 down, threading it, and pinning a PWS FSC556 (2.3in) to bring it back up to minimum length and just had a couple questions. I am planning on removing the FSB and GB and replacing them with the Venom Tactical FSGB with an ultimak railed gas tube and was wondering: If I cut it back about 2+ in. do you think I would have to enlarge the gas port? As an alternitive to enlarging the gas port, when I use the Venom Tactical FSGB that has not gas ports with the Ultimak rail with no gas ports would I maintain the correct pressures or gas levels to keep it running reliably? Is there anything else I should be thinking of aproaching this project? Thanks! Edited August 11, 2013 by Mountain Man Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pyzik 597 Posted August 12, 2013 Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 I can't chime in on the port, sorry. But I love my FSC556, good choice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
finishman2000 2 Posted August 13, 2013 Report Share Posted August 13, 2013 gun will work just fine. I cut down my arsenal side folder to be 16.25 oa and it is 100% with all ammo tried. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pyzik 597 Posted August 13, 2013 Report Share Posted August 13, 2013 (edited) Oh, I've got a friend that has a Tantal kit on a NoDak receiver and it's cut down to 14.5" with the original gas block with no issues. I know it's not the same at a .223/5.56 but similar. Edited August 13, 2013 by Pyzik Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kevinfreel 215 Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 Hmm. That gas block front site combo looks sharp. My question would be is this a direct fit on a Saiga. I'm pretty sure that I read somewhere a while ago that the angle of the gas port and the gas block can be either 45° of 90°. If this is the case what's the angle on the venom, an what's the angle on the Saiga? 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pyzik 597 Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 Hmm. That gas block front site combo looks sharp. My question would be is this a direct fit on a Saiga. I'm pretty sure that I read somewhere a while ago that the angle of the gas port and the gas block can be either 45° of 90°. If this is the case what's the angle on the venom, an what's the angle on the Saiga? Saiga's are 90 degree and the venom gas block has ports for both. 45 degree hole in front and a 90 degree hole in the back. You just line up whichever you need to use. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kevinfreel 215 Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 Cool thanks. I just saw that on their website. Question #2. According to the internets (yeah,I know) the barrel diameter on the saigas at the gas block is usually closer to the .61-.62 size. The Bolton block is listed as being .59 inside diameter. Is this a non issue since its a bolt on part? I don't really wanna track down a 100 series gb/fs combo. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pyzik 597 Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 I don't think will be an issue. It may make it more difficult to line up, being it will be tighter and will move less freely but should function 100%. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mancat 2,368 Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 Leave the gas port alone. The Saiga .223 is already overgassed from the factory IMO (I run an extra-power recoil spring in mine) and will be just fine with some loss of barrel length. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kevinfreel 215 Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 OK pulling the trigger on it now. Im really trying to save as much weight as possible on this. So I'm going to weigh all the respective parts and post it up here in a new thread for future reference. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mancat 2,368 Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 PS if your Saiga has a dimpled magwell, it should have the smaller diameter barrel with standard AKM barrel dimensions - .591" at the gas block journal. If you don't have a dimpled magwell, chances are high that you have the earlier non-standard thicker diameter barrel. You really should have a digital caliper for this sort of work FWIW. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kevinfreel 215 Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 Man cat... valid point. I know my rifle is a 06 no dimples so I'm probably shit outta luck. Gonna go for the ace bolt on. Harder for me to fudge anything up this way. Even though I'm not gonna take off as much weight I will at least still move most of it farther back. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mancat 2,368 Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 (edited) it really shouldn't be very expensive to take that combo FSB/GB to a machine shop and have it run it through a lathe to the required inner dimensions. just make sure there's enough external material on the combo block to support it. Edited August 15, 2013 by mancat Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kevinfreel 215 Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 Yeah I thought about that but I'm afraid since its a split design that it may get fucked up if I run it through my grandpas mill or lathe. Im on a bit of a budget since I'm selling ammo to pay for this project. So I ordered the ace bolt on and a sight tool and a OEM handguard which I'm gonna vent and possibly cram a heat shield into. That will shave some more ounces off from the Midwest industries quad I have on it now. Its an awesome piece but too wide and I don't have anything on the rails. So I'll sell that and get a ultimak and put the red dot on that. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kevinfreel 215 Posted August 16, 2013 Report Share Posted August 16, 2013 Well got home and put the micrometer on the barrel. .632 in the front of the block and.633 in the rear of the block. Mancat you rationality save my ass. No way .591 would fit. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pyzik 597 Posted August 16, 2013 Report Share Posted August 16, 2013 Well got home and put the micrometer on the barrel. .632 in the front of the block and.633 in the rear of the block. Mancat you rationality save my ass. No way .591 would fit. Wow. Glad Mancat chimed in. I didn't know it was that thick... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kevinfreel 215 Posted August 16, 2013 Report Share Posted August 16, 2013 Yeah no wonder this gun is such a pig. Thick fuckin barrel. Shoots pretty well and that's what counts 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mountain Man 20 Posted August 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2013 So how hard is it to align the gas block with the gas port? If I line it up where the old gas block markings are and tighten it down will it be pretty easy? I am using the venom tactical FSGB combo but I have never used a torque wrench before. I am pretty sure I can do it but is this the kind of project that I should send out to have done? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kevinfreel 215 Posted August 16, 2013 Report Share Posted August 16, 2013 Should be something you can do your self. Check alignment with a small Allen key. If your alignment is good you should be able to poke out through and see it sticking into the barrel. I would eye ball the gas ports location on the block and make a small pencil mark on the block. Measure the distance from the muzzle to the had port in the barrel. Remember this measurement. Slide the block on and check for alignment when the mark on the block is as far from the muzzle as the measurement you took. If you have a inch pound ratchet the rest is cake. If you don't have one you should be able to pick one up from a tool or auto supply store. If those aren't local you could borrow one maybe a from a competent mechanic. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mountain Man 20 Posted August 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2013 Should be something you can do your self. Check alignment with a small Allen key. If your alignment is good you should be able to poke out through and see it sticking into the barrel. I would eye ball the gas ports location on the block and make a small pencil mark on the block. Measure the distance from the muzzle to the had port in the barrel. Remember this measurement. Slide the block on and check for alignment when the mark on the block is as far from the muzzle as the measurement you took. If you have a inch pound ratchet the rest is cake. If you don't have one you should be able to pick one up from a tool or auto supply store. If those aren't local you could borrow one maybe a from a competent mechanic. Thanks, the allen wrench suggestion is awesome, and yep I am gonna go pick up an inch pound ratchet too. Thanks again! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kevinfreel 215 Posted August 17, 2013 Report Share Posted August 17, 2013 No problem man. Pictures when its done either here or the picture thread. I was researching the gas blocks too and some one did the same thing. Pass the knowledge on. One of the best thing about a forum especially this one is the wealth of info. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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