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Saiga help please!


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Well I finally took off my gas block, which to my surprise came off really easy. I drilled all 4 holes to 5/64ths, and the block to 11/32nds. I took it to the range today, adjusted my new tac 47 plug. It was failing to eject. I put the old plug back in same thing. I let it cool off for a minute, loaded up and shot three rounds like nothing. Then it started hanging up again. The shells that are ejected are not vey far, but enough to load the next shell. That's when I noticed the problem. It will fire a shell, eject it, load the next one, but the trigger wont budge. I have to cycle it by hand, which ejects a good round, then I can fire again. Im no gun smith but something tells me the trigger is not resetting??? I bought the trigger from CSS. Im not sure what or how to proceed.

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did it work before you drilled all the ports?. did you change anything else while you were doing that work, ie trigger or hammer, power spring?? If you did, put all the stock stuff that you can back in it. Obviously if you changed the trigger group just reuse the original hammer.

Edited by utahhandyman
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try taking it out and put one round through it- before you reset the trigger pop the hood and do a visual inspection. What deadeye said is most common, happened to me also. additionally I also had to polish the disconnect and the hammer lip as they were sticking- caused the same trigger reset prob

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Jets sent you in the right direction.

 

As for the shells cycling, your results may or may not mean anything. It matters what shells. As you may have read here before, the shells for baseline function testing and later tuning your autoplug should be 1 1/8 oz of shot @1200 FPS. Those are the only numbers that matter for this purpose.

 

get it to 100% with your stock plug before messing with the autoplug, with the above ammo.

 

 

Slick up the rails, if necessary profile the hammer and you should be good to go. Some people need to enlarge the ports a little more and/or profile the bolt, but most achieve success with your port size and probably a hammer re-profile.

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Well I took it apart tonight, everything seems to be working correctly. I can cycle it by hand and the trigger will reset each time. I was using federal 1 1/8 oz target loads. Im lost the spring is on correct. Makes no sense to me at all, im not giving up though came to far to turn back. Im just at a stand still until I can get to the range. I will fix this issue, thanks to all who have commented on this situation!

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The spring can be on correctly, but intermittently slip to the inside of the trigger legs. That's why you need the outward bend.

 

Other possibilities are paint or burrs on the engagement surfaces of the trigger/ hammer, but the solid binding you described means it is almost certainly the spring on the right side slipping leftward to bind with the hammer. If it is bent outward the little hook on the end of the hammmer spring leg will be pulling to the right while pushing down against the trigger body.

 

 I was using federal 1 1/8 oz target loads. 

 

You still only listed half of the important info. You gave weight, which is only meaningful if you also list velocity. For example, a common bulk pack is  " federal 1 1/8 oz target loads. " @ 1145 FPS, which is not fast enough. (2 3/4 dram eq). You've got the right weight, but the velocity for your baseline should be 1200 FPS.

Edited by GunFun
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maby put a piece of masking tape over the gap of the saifty lever and see how far the bolt carier is coming back each time. it may not be comeing back far enough to reset the trigger.    friction on the main spring where it coils up and goes inside the carier can cause resistance at the rear most of the cycle.    I put grease on mine and it helped quite a bit. 

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