Inebriated 31 Posted November 3, 2013 Report Share Posted November 3, 2013 Having a hard time removing the FSB pins. Any tips? I'm going to replace the whole thing, so I was thinking of just cutting it on either side, and tossing it. But if I don't have to, I'd rather not. So does anyone have any pointers? They've soaked in penetrating oil, and they just don't want to move with punches. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dashowdy 141 Posted November 3, 2013 Report Share Posted November 3, 2013 try a little heat and then try it, also drive the pins from left to right if your looking from the back. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Inebriated 31 Posted November 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2013 Will-do, thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Inebriated 31 Posted November 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2013 Going left-to-right and using a steady base worked perfectly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dashowdy 141 Posted November 4, 2013 Report Share Posted November 4, 2013 Awesome man good to hear, get some pics up once your done. I always put mine in with a little clp on them, makes em easier to remove if need be. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mancat 2,366 Posted November 4, 2013 Report Share Posted November 4, 2013 (edited) when you put them back in, chamfer the sharp edges on the pin ends and coat the pins with anti-seize - or maybe CLP like dashowdy uses. I use anti-seize on mine. with these two steps the pins will pretty much glide back in with your driving tool of choice. the anti-seize will bleed out when you first shoot it, and the pins will be well-set. Edited November 4, 2013 by mancat Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dashowdy 141 Posted November 5, 2013 Report Share Posted November 5, 2013 I am gonna use that tip when I do the front end on my x39 mancat. I just use clp because i have deformed pins trying to get them in there, I will definitely chamfer the ends next time to make it a tad easier. I used roll pins only because the original base on my wifes sar2 was canted and neutered. I was scared the old channels for the old pins on the canted base would screw up the new one when I went to put pins in,so I just went to 1/8 inch roll pins since 1/8 is 3.2 mm allowing me to use the existing channels but ream them a bit and line them up straight. Just waiting on k-var to get some more 74 fsb in for my x39. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Inebriated 31 Posted November 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2013 (edited) Awesome man good to hear, get some pics up once your done. I always put mine in with a little clp on them, makes em easier to remove if need be. Will-do. I have the Bulgarian FSB installed, and I'm just waiting for some 1/8" drill rod to come in, and I'm going to make my own pins, since I am not using the old pin slots, the old pins are fairly marred up, and the ones that came with my FSB don't seem to match any of my bits. So for $3 for 1/8" drill rod from midway, I get the peace of mind I guess. when you put them back in, chamfer the sharp edges on the pin ends and coat the pins with anti-seize - or maybe CLP like dashowdy uses. I use anti-seize on mine. with these two steps the pins will pretty much glide back in with your driving tool of choice. the anti-seize will bleed out when you first shoot it, and the pins will be well-set. I'll definitely try the anti-seize, thanks. I am gonna use that tip when I do the front end on my x39 mancat. I just use clp because i have deformed pins trying to get them in there, I will definitely chamfer the ends next time to make it a tad easier. I used roll pins only because the original base on my wifes sar2 was canted and neutered. I was scared the old channels for the old pins on the canted base would screw up the new one when I went to put pins in,so I just went to 1/8 inch roll pins since 1/8 is 3.2 mm allowing me to use the existing channels but ream them a bit and line them up straight. Just waiting on k-var to get some more 74 fsb in for my x39. I got this one: http://www.k-var.com/shop/AK-167B.html It's a slightly loose fit, it could be whacked on with a hammer and block of wood, but it's a perfect FSB. My Arsenal '74 brake works well, it holds the cleaning rod well, so I'd recommend it. Expensive, probably more than it should be, but hell, I just wanted the rifle done. Edited November 5, 2013 by Inebriated Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dashowdy 141 Posted November 5, 2013 Report Share Posted November 5, 2013 thanks for the parts link, next on the to do list. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
riggs1117 0 Posted November 5, 2013 Report Share Posted November 5, 2013 does you're new fsb have pins in the bottom like the original or are they on the top? If they are on the top, how are you going about filing a new groove for the pins? only ask because I have been checking hardware stores for a small file for this purpose with no luck. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Inebriated 31 Posted November 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2013 They're at the bottom, and I'm just going to drill through the whole thing. Only reason I'm not using the old grooves is because the original FSB was considerably canted to the left. So I figure I'll just drill new holes, since it's likely the grooves are also canted. And no problem, dashowdy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dashowdy 141 Posted November 5, 2013 Report Share Posted November 5, 2013 thats what I did as well new channels due to canted sights in the first place, go slow and use lots of cutting oil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mancat 2,366 Posted November 5, 2013 Report Share Posted November 5, 2013 dashowdy, roll pins work just fine and many use them on AKs.. Galils are all assembled from the factory using roll pins rather than pin stock. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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