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Help with conversion


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So I'm in the middle of a conversion and everything was going along great except for the paint. I used Dupicolor 1634 " low gloss" and I guess I managed to mess up the masking lines on the trigger area.  I tried like 5x to get it right and I decided to just paint the entire receiver, after some tooling marks appeared on it.


 


I sanded some areas of the receivers down with 220 grit.  After Wendsday I'm planning on using acetone  and spraying it with 1634 dupi color " low gloss". Only problem is that nobody seems to really know what color shade of black Izhmash uses, I even wrote a email to them in Russian rolleyes.gif   No response yet, my Russian must be bad.....


 


The below pic is a quick test run on a airsoft dust cover to see how the dupicolor matches the Saiga stock color. No prep work was done. Sunlight is shining on it, which gives it that glossy appearance.  That spray can was towards the end, so maybe it was spitting out a lighter shade ?


 


Any suggestions on how to proceed?  Also what is the best way to prep.


 


Thanks,


 


2cp291x.jpg


Edited by EMT760
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The method of application of DE 1634 will determine the amount of gloss in the final finish. If you spray fewer, heavier coats it will turn out more glossy than the factory finish. I have found that it also does not cure as hard and the paint film will dent.

 

This is how I prepped and finished both a S-12 and 7.62. Tear down the gun to receiver and barrel. Remove everything else, FCG, bolt, carrier piston, grip, stock, and forearm. I used a fine file and sandpaper to square up edges on the FSB, etc. thoroughly tape up the inside of the receiver, bore and gas block. You want to leave these areas factory to make sure that excessive paint build up does not interfere with bolt carrier operation.

 

Use a mild stripper (I used Citristrip in the spray can from Walmart) and let it sit for about 30 minutes. Reapply stripper as neccessary to keep it from drying. Once you see the paint dissolving use a brass or nylon toothbrush to dislodge the dissolved paint. pay special attention to the crevices, i.e. The side rail, gas block seams pressed onto the barrel, etc. once thoroughly scrubbed, use a garden hose with high pressure nozzle to rinse all of the stripper and dissolved paint. The receiver will be mostly down to the metal at this point.

 

Immediately fill a bath tub up with the hottest water you can get from the tap and add about a 1/4 to half cup of Dawn. Soak the receiver until the water is cool enough to place your hands in. The heat will draw out oil that it trapped in the crevices and the surfactant in the dish washing detergent will emulsify it so that it does not redeposit on the surface. At this time I use a tooth brush with copious amounts of Dawn to scrub the entire surface to be painted. once done I rinse everything throroughly. Once rinsed inspect all surfaces of the receiver. The receiver and barrel should be 100% water break free. This means that the water film should sheet off of the parts without the film breaking or beading up. Any areas that show water break are recleaned with more Dawn and the toothbrush until water break free. (Water break is a convenient method of visually inspecting surface tension to ensure the part is completely clean.

 

Dry the part with a clean towel and heat it up using a hair dryer or heat gun to drive off any remaining moisture. If this step is skipped you will see flash rust start to form. Once done, it is important to be ready to paint immediately. I heat up the receiver again right before painting until the metal is warm, not hot to the touch.

 

To get a more natural matte finish using DE1634, it is extremely important to dust the part several times. Typically it will take 3 coats of dusting before all of the metal is completely covered. The paint will flash off fairly quickly. I hold the can about 18 inches from the parts, and move the entire length of the barrel and receiver. I allow only about 5 minutes between coats to make sure that the paint is able to properly cross- link without thoroughly wetting the part. Resist the temptation to handle or reassemble for at least 72 hours. Just let it hang. Once the parts have thoroughly dried, I place them in the oven at 275 for about an hour. After that they are ready to assemble.

 

The finish looks very good and is fairly durable. You may still get some minor scrapes on the edge of the magazine well over time but they are easily touched up. Here is a pic of the final finish:

post-37530-0-61741000-1384305796_thumb.jpg

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The method of application of DE 1634 will determine the amount of gloss in the final finish. If you spray fewer, heavier coats it will turn out more glossy than the factory finish. I have found that it also does not cure as hard and the paint film will dent.

 

This is how I prepped and finished both a S-12 and 7.62. Tear down the gun to receiver and barrel. Remove everything else, FCG, bolt, carrier piston, grip, stock, and forearm. I used a fine file and sandpaper to square up edges on the FSB, etc. thoroughly tape up the inside of the receiver, bore and gas block. You want to leave these areas factory to make sure that excessive paint build up does not interfere with bolt carrier operation.

 

Use a mild stripper (I used Citristrip in the spray can from Walmart) and let it sit for about 30 minutes. Reapply stripper as neccessary to keep it from drying. Once you see the paint dissolving use a brass or nylon toothbrush to dislodge the dissolved paint. pay special attention to the crevices, i.e. The side rail, gas block seams pressed onto the barrel, etc. once thoroughly scrubbed, use a garden hose with high pressure nozzle to rinse all of the stripper and dissolved paint. The receiver will be mostly down to the metal at this point.

 

Immediately fill a bath tub up with the hottest water you can get from the tap and add about a 1/4 to half cup of Dawn. Soak the receiver until the water is cool enough to place your hands in. The heat will draw out oil that it trapped in the crevices and the surfactant in the dish washing detergent will emulsify it so that it does not redeposit on the surface. At this time I use a tooth brush with copious amounts of Dawn to scrub the entire surface to be painted. once done I rinse everything throroughly. Once rinsed inspect all surfaces of the receiver. The receiver and barrel should be 100% water break free. This means that the water film should sheet off of the parts without the film breaking or beading up. Any areas that show water break are recleaned with more Dawn and the toothbrush until water break free. (Water break is a convenient method of visually inspecting surface tension to ensure the part is completely clean.

 

Dry the part with a clean towel and heat it up using a hair dryer or heat gun to drive off any remaining moisture. If this step is skipped you will see flash rust start to form. Once done, it is important to be ready to paint immediately. I heat up the receiver again right before painting until the metal is warm, not hot to the touch.

 

To get a more natural matte finish using DE1634, it is extremely important to dust the part several times. Typically it will take 3 coats of dusting before all of the metal is completely covered. The paint will flash off fairly quickly. I hold the can about 18 inches from the parts, and move the entire length of the barrel and receiver. I allow only about 5 minutes between coats to make sure that the paint is able to properly cross- link without thoroughly wetting the part. Resist the temptation to handle or reassemble for at least 72 hours. Just let it hang. Once the parts have thoroughly dried, I place them in the oven at 275 for about an hour. After that they are ready to assemble.

 

The finish looks very good and is fairly durable. You may still get some minor scrapes on the edge of the magazine well over time but they are easily touched up. Here is a pic of the final finish:

 

Wow,  very informative post!  I appreciate you sharing that knowledge. 

 

My intention is to paint the receiver only. Hopefully it will match up nicely 

 

Another question, let's say 220 grit sandpaper didn't leave the most smooth surface on the receiver( I was told it's too coarse) . Should I try 400 grit? or fill it in with JB weld or some kinda bondo to make the surface ready to accept paint? 

Edited by EMT760
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Izhmash paint their products with a special phosphate coating of lacquer to further bake in oven at 120C.

We have a Russian made ​​Saiga paint or heat resistant matt paint for fireplaces, followed by baking - such as this.

 

post-46820-0-16271000-1384330555_thumb.jpgpost-46820-0-46390300-1384330561_thumb.jpg

 

  Or composition of the issuing original factory paint on the basis of Nigrosine and BF-4.

Izhmash will not answer this question for several reasons. Ask him questions such useless.

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  • 4 months later...

I use the Dupli-Color DE 1634 low gloss and it matchs OEM color.

 

Finish sand w/400 grit  to remove scratchs.  Follow all the above prep instructions. Do the oven drying as describled above after painting. But before you paint heat up a big pot of water and drop the paint can in to warm up the paint. Then it will go on like power coating. big_smile.gif

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