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kwesi

Tac-47 Range Report

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I have a Tromix S17 8" barrel.  I recently installed the Tac-47 and adjusted it per the video the company has posted on YouTube. A few friends and I decided this test would indicate if the Auto Plug was venting any excess gas properly to prevent our receivers from getting beat up. 1) The factory plug was installed on setting #2 and I chose Federal bulk 7 1/2 since this is the weakest 12 gauge I will run.  The expectation was that these shells would eject 4-6 feet.  That was exactly where they landed. 2) I then switched to the Tac-47 and ran the same ammo with the shells landing 3-4'. 3) Keeping the Tac-47 installed I switched to Remington 1oz Sluggers with a distance between 5-7'. Note: of the 9 slugs fired:

 

3 @ 5'

5 @ 6'

1 @ 7'

 

Personally I feel very comfortable that the Tac-47 Auto Plug is functioning properly.  The gun ran 100% with no malfunctions.

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Sounds good. I think you'd even be safe to dial it in until you got the same ejection as #2 with the weak stuff.

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Think I am gonna be purchasing a Tak 47 auto plug. Wish I had heard about them before I spent the money on the DPH six position plug. Looks like I will be posting in the for sale section soon.

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Think I am gonna be purchasing a Tak 47 auto plug. Wish I had heard about them before I spent the money on the DPH six position plug. Looks like I will be posting in the for sale section soon.

 

I actually had purchased one of the Tac47 manual versions prior to getting the autoplug. While the autoplug is neat to have, the manual type is fine for most people, especially if they shoot mainly one type of shell most of the time. One big misconception that people have is that changing to an autoplug, or even an aftermarket manual plug will somehow fix an undergassed gun. They should only be used once the gun is properly working with the stock plug inmo. I will probably be selling my Tac47 manual plug at some point now that my gun is dialed in with the autoplug. I didn't really "need" it, as it worked awesome with the manual version, but I got a good deal on it, so I decided to give it a try. If anyone is looking for a nearly new manual Tac47 plug, pm me.

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That's definitely interesting. Better than all manual, still wish it was fully automatic though. 

 

How does one properly size the groove? Or can you sell me one/services to cut it to the same spec?

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I tried to call out the dimensions in the gallery. Some of the descriptions seem to have gone off of the images.

 

Basically make it very small and shallow and test with the shells in question. Anything which would eject more than say 6-7 feet on "auto" goes over to manual. I haven't tested a ton of 3" shells, but Rem seems to be a bit wimpier than Win. The shallow groove was enough to make rem run. The way I would do it is to buy some 15 round boxes of Rem 15 pellet OOB at wallmart. Grind the groove with a 1/8" cylindrical diamond burr, up to about a third of the diameter of the burr. Then go test. If Rem runs, you are done. If not, grind up to 50% Diameter...

 

My theory is that if the shell doesn't have enough oomph to run on that, it should be OK on auto. I'm sure the maker won't warrant that, but they ought to sell it that way and then warrant that.

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I had a few people recommend not to run the autoplug. So I have been a little iffy on using mine. Well I put it on the other day and am hopefully going to get mine dialed in next weekend. My question is should there be any concerns running this with a css gas puck? or should I go to the factory puck? My gun currently performs flawlessly. Thanks.

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That surprises me. 

 

They may have been recommending not running the autoplug until you have determined that your gun runs with the rest of the parts. That makes a lot of sense. 

 

Some say not to run it with the CSS puck, but I don't see a problem with it. If your gun is tuned to the right amount of power with a particular puck on setting #2 with the OEM plug, then it is fine to use with the autoplug. If your gun won't run 3 dram ammo yet, throw in the stock plug and puck and tune the gun until it works. Once it works, then install the autoplug. Expect your autoplug's spring to break in, and need a little adjustment after the first hundred or two rounds. After that, you ought to be able to mark the number of turns of adjustment., dis assemble, clean, and put it back together with some blue loctite.

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my auto plug seems to work fine with 3 inch magnum rounds.   I turn it upside down and it cycles rem 15 pellet buck fine    

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That shows the variation between guns. Mine would, but only with some brands of ammo.

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I had a few people recommend not to run the autoplug. So I have been a little iffy on using mine. Well I put it on the other day and am hopefully going to get mine dialed in next weekend. My question is should there be any concerns running this with a css gas puck? or should I go to the factory puck? My gun currently performs flawlessly. Thanks.

 

*** I have a first generation CSS Puc.***

 

I should not run my gun with the Auto Plug and CSS Puc, because that combination yields a condition where my carrier's left shoulder does not contact the front trunnion (near the breach).  The AP and CSS puc are too long together, and this will lead to battering the neck of the already weakly designed carrier.  I believe this has been addressed with the Gen 2 CSS Puc wich has been the only one available for a while. 

 

My Gen 1 CSS Puc will need to be trimmed down a little bit with a mill.  I am talking about a few hundredths of an inch.  The gap between the carrier and trunion on mine is less than the thickness of a piece of paper.  I will take a little extra to allow for thermal expansion of all parts during sustained rapid fire.

 

If you can hear the puc wiggle when you shake the gun, you are probably fine.  big_smile.gif

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I had a few people recommend not to run the autoplug. So I have been a little iffy on using mine. Well I put it on the other day and am hopefully going to get mine dialed in next weekend. My question is should there be any concerns running this with a css gas puck? or should I go to the factory puck? My gun currently performs flawlessly. Thanks.

 

*** I have a first generation CSS Puc.***

 

I should not run my gun with the Auto Plug and CSS Puc, because that combination yields a condition where my carrier's left shoulder does not contact the front trunnion (near the breach).  The AP and CSS puc are too long together, and this will lead to battering the neck of the already weakly designed carrier.  I believe this has been addressed with the Gen 2 CSS Puc wich has been the only one available for a while. 

 

My Gen 1 CSS Puc will need to be trimmed down a little bit with a mill.  I am talking about a few hundredths of an inch.  The gap between the carrier and trunion on mine is less than the thickness of a piece of paper.  I will take a little extra to allow for thermal expansion of all parts during sustained rapid fire.

 

If you can hear the puc wiggle when you shake the gun, you are probably fine.  big_smile.gif

 

Yes my puck does rattle but now I am even more paranoid. I bought my puck probably around 2 years ago so I have no idea which gen it is but I do know it is longer than the original which caused the orginal concerns. The reasons the ap was not reccommended to me was because of overgassing. Is there any way to check if I am having the same issues. I assume just slide the bolt carrier forward and see if it stops before contacting the front trunnion?

 

Thanks.

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It doesn't matter what generation it is. The CSS puc is a great product. What matters is the fit in your gun. As long as the puc rattles around in a clean gun with a closed bolt, you are fine. The CSS puc is engineered to make more efficient use of the available gas.  It is a slightly tighter fit, diameter wise, so it allows less blow-by.  This makes more efficient use of the gas available and causes the gun to run more cleanly.  It also has an extra "cleaning channel" and is longer than the factory puc. The length takes up "slack" in the power stroke with the carrier. The increased puc size decreases available volume in the gas block, thus upping pressure (impulse magnitude).   

The Auto Plug allows slightly less gas into the block than the factory regulator and vents most excess gas. I'm not sure why it was not recommended. It extends slightly more into the block than factory, hence the reason I can use either a CSS puc or AP at one time.  Just make sure your puc can rattle. 

Understand the AP can only vent so much gas.  This means high pressure loads should not be used with the AP unless it is modified as member GunFun pioneered. Check his profile for pictures. He did a great job documenting the mod. Once modified (and on a properly tuned gun), the Auto Plug is the most versatile plug available. It has an automatic setting for most rounds, but high pressure rounds can damage the gun unless you go to a second modded setting. One of the ways you can tell the gun is over gassed is if the shells are ejecting violently more than ten feet or so (some may disagree on that distance). 

I suggest to set the AP for the weakest ammo (100 round bulk packs of Federal Birdshot are a great choice - 3 dram equivalent is the generally accepted baseline) you will ever be using to eject 100% at about 3-5 feet while shooting with the butt pad unsupported by your shoulder (from the hip).  I suggest using ammo that is cold as it loses a little oomph when chilled.  Then count exactly how many turns of the adjustment screw as you back it out. Degrease and dry the plug and screw, then apply a small bit of temporary thread locker (as in blue Loctite) and reset the screw to the proper depth. Last, perform GunFun's mod and reinstall. 

I hope this answers most questions about the Auto Plug.

Edited by Nephilim7

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