Bearclaw 0 Posted December 12, 2013 Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 Has anyone figured out how to disassemble the tubular folding stock? I am looking to shorten the tubes by an inch and remove and modify the cheek piece. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
b_r 2 Posted December 12, 2013 Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 If you want a spare to experiment on, there is one currently listed on ebay 200990751375 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bearclaw 0 Posted December 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2013 Thanks. Trying to do this on the cheap. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
projectiledysfunction 0 Posted January 17, 2014 Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 Bearclaw, have you looked into this any further? I'm picking up my first VEPR-12 tomorrow and from what I've seen of the stock dimensions I imagine I will be doing the same thing you described in your first post. I'm all of 5'6" and I like to shoot shotguns offhand the same way I would an AR-15 (nose almost to the receiver) so I actually run an ACE ARFX Entry stock with a 1" recoil pad on my current Saiga-12. That's perfect for both my wife and I, so I'd like to shorten the VEPR stock to mimic that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brickfield mfg 86 Posted January 17, 2014 Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 Knock out the pins circled in red in the photo, and that will get the stock off. I am thinking about removing mine to deepen the notch on the cheek piece, to allow it to lock in the right handed shooting position, and require the plunger to be depressed to move it from that position.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
projectiledysfunction 0 Posted January 18, 2014 Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 Knock out the pins circled in red in the photo, and that will get the stock off. I am thinking about removing mine to deepen the notch on the cheek piece, to allow it to lock in the right handed shooting position, and require the plunger to be depressed to move it from that position.. Looking mine over it appears that the bottom pin is blind and would have to be drilled out, because Russia Are they all like that? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brickfield mfg 86 Posted January 18, 2014 Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 (edited) Looking mine over it appears that the bottom pin is blind and would have to be drilled out, because Russia Are they all like that? It does go all the way through, but it comes out inside of the pocket that the latch locks into (in the open position), and looks like the pin might be too long to come out in one piece. Drilling out the pin might be required, or you could drill through the outside of the "pocket" so you would be able to drive the pin all the way through. Edited January 18, 2014 by 7.62m43 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
projectiledysfunction 0 Posted January 20, 2014 Report Share Posted January 20, 2014 It does go all the way through, but it comes out inside of the pocket that the latch locks into (in the open position), and looks like the pin might be too long to come out in one piece. Drilling out the pin might be required, or you could drill through the outside of the "pocket" so you would be able to drive the pin all the way through. I scraped around on the inside of the "pocket" and found the other side of the pin (it had been covered with a metal burr and paint.) I think I'll very carefully drill through the pocket to access the pin instead of having to drill out the entire pin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wagnikov 186 Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 Look into "flat top vepr" different reason but same concept. You would have to drill and knock out detention rivet also Quote Link to post Share on other sites
warthog984 1 Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 Does anyone know where to get replacement pins once the old ones are drilled out? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wagnikov 186 Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 The pins in the tubes should not be compromised and are easily reused. The detent rivet in the upper tube if removed is going to leave a large hole in that top tube. And since the tube is such light material it will most likely distort during the removal process. That is why I chose to not disassemble further. But I would seriously consider just grinding off the top head of what I'm calling the detent rivet leaving it in place thereby keeping a solid look to the top tube. If you did choose to remove that rivet you would just have to counter drill the backside where it was staked. So to answer your question I did not measure the pens. I would assume that they are metric. Your easiest solution would be bumping the holes to the next size of hardened pin available at your local hardware store Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wagnikov 186 Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 If you choose to "cut it off" without disassembly, be forewarned it has steel embedded in it. FYI Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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