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How to make the safety functional after conversion


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 Looking for a way to end up with proper functioning safeties on several models. I don't have a welder. What's everyone else doing to get there's working right?

 

 

 I'd like to start with the 7.62x39mm. Using a G2 FCG, the angle is off on the lever... When the lever is in safe position, inside part moves to far rearward and off trigger...anyone offer them as a drop in part ?     Thanks     

Edited by cscharlie
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Think you got it backwards and I don't have time to get you going in the right direction

 

 

AHHHH "hand to head"your correct. 

 

 When I move the safety lever downward from "safe" position, the safety is engaged just before the lever on the outside gets to the half way in between safe and fire. If forced to go further, the inside part travels rearwar and comes off the trigger. Then the end of the lever drops down lower than the end of the trigger so I cannot move the lever back to "safe" without taking parts out... 

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That is good!!  You need to remove a bit of materiel from the bottom of the safety to clear the hammer legs:)

 

If someone has a pic to illustrate this, that will be good.  If not, I will get one tomorrow and indicate where you need to remove a little bit of materiel at a time until you get the feel and correct engagement for the safety.

 

I like to have just a little bit of travel between the trigger leg and the safety when it is engaged.  This way if it gets bumped while it is in the fire position, it will not lock the trigger.

 

Jack

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Just do what Jack said in post #6, it's a common issue with the Saiga's, I had to do it with my S.308. It's not a big deal, if you did the conversion you can certainly dremmel a little material off the bottom of the safety so it clears the trigger legs 032.gif

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Try squeezing the trigger and depressing the disconnector (the spring-loaded hook at the rear of the trigger) while flipping the safety down. You should be able to wiggle the parts enough to get it in.

 

Alternatively you can rotate the safety around backwards and clear the trigger group this way, just be careful while bending the safety up to clear the rear trunnion rivets. This is how the safety is installed with a F/A AK FCG.

Edited by mancat
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That is good!!  You need to remove a bit of materiel from the bottom of the safety to clear the hammer legs:)

 

If someone has a pic to illustrate this, that will be good.  If not, I will get one tomorrow and indicate where you need to remove a little bit of materiel at a time until you get the feel and correct engagement for the safety.

 

I like to have just a little bit of travel between the trigger leg and the safety when it is engaged.  This way if it gets bumped while it is in the fire position, it will not lock the trigger.

 

Jack

  AHHHHH I'm on a role here. When I read your post Jack, I thought , it can;t be that simple.

 

 I use to be able to answer most of the questions that came up on here. And there were times when I did.Way back when... A lots happened since then. A stroke and many other things... I kind of feel like a real goofball.bad_smile.gif  Thanks for all your patience. I looked at that over and over and it just didn't registar. Again thanks to you all/ yall! Bless you in Jesus name!

Try squeezing the trigger and depressing the disconnector (the spring-loaded hook at the rear of the trigger) while flipping the safety down. You should be able to wiggle the parts enough to get it in.

 

Alternatively you can rotate the safety around backwards and clear the trigger group this way, just be careful while bending the safety up to clear the rear trunnion rivets. This is how the safety is installed with a F/A AK FCG.

 Good answer! I got tired of being stuck a few days ago and bent the pin retiaing plate enough to take everything out.

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