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Hello all

 

Does anyone make and sell an 80% milled ak receiver? Or do any of you know where I can get a saw cut (demilled) milled ak receiver all the ones I find are torch cut and done so poorly you would need to buy 3 or 4 of them to put together one good (re-weld) milled receiver.

 

This is just a curiosity on my part, I would like to try my hand at a re-weld or perhaps finishing out the 80% if I could find one.

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I have access to large flat laser machine at work than can cut metal up to 3/4 inch thick with no rough edges......perhaps I will buy a flat then copy it and cut one in 1mm titanium sheet. No need for heat treat with titanium then. bet I could do it, if any of you have a good print for a flat that is 100 % accurate I would like a copy of it. Hell I would build it just for shits and giggles....titanium sheet metal receiver ak.....hell yeah.

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I have access to large flat laser machine at work than can cut metal up to 3/4 inch thick with no rough edges......perhaps I will buy a flat then copy it and cut one in 1mm titanium sheet. No need for heat treat with titanium then. bet I could do it, if any of you have a good print for a flat that is 100 % accurate I would like a copy of it. Hell I would build it just for shits and giggles....titanium sheet metal receiver ak.....hell yeah.

Do this. Document it. What sort of titanium alloys do you have access to in sheet form? Some are way too soft to make a good receiver.

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If I recall what little metallurgy I know Ti is too brittle and must be an alloy, good catch on alloy selection. 

Some alloys are too soft, some are too hard/brittle. Good steel is a great material because it has a very high tensile strength - it isn't all that hard, but it's damned strong. I used to make chainmail, and for the fancy stuff generally used Grade 5 aerospace titanium - TIAL6V4. Had to be super careful bending that stuff, bend a ring 90 degrees and it breaks. Pure titanium, on the other hand, was almost as soft and malleable as aluminum.

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I have access to large flat laser machine at work than can cut metal up to 3/4 inch thick with no rough edges......perhaps I will buy a flat then copy it and cut one in 1mm titanium sheet. No need for heat treat with titanium then. bet I could do it, if any of you have a good print for a flat that is 100 % accurate I would like a copy of it. Hell I would build it just for shits and giggles....titanium sheet metal receiver ak.....hell yeah.

Do this. Document it. What sort of titanium alloys do you have access to in sheet form? Some are way too soft to make a good receiver.

 

 

 

If I recall what little metallurgy I know Ti is too brittle and must be an alloy, good catch on alloy selection. 

 

 

 

If I recall what little metallurgy I know Ti is too brittle and must be an alloy, good catch on alloy selection. 

Some alloys are too soft, some are too hard/brittle. Good steel is a great material because it has a very high tensile strength - it isn't all that hard, but it's damned strong. I used to make chainmail, and for the fancy stuff generally used Grade 5 aerospace titanium - TIAL6V4. Had to be super careful bending that stuff, bend a ring 90 degrees and it breaks. Pure titanium, on the other hand, was almost as soft and malleable as aluminum.

 

I got Titanium Sheet 6AL-4V - it seems i will need to hot or warm form this material as it will spring back a bit if cold formed.

Edited by 762x39pro
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I was thinking about getting a chunk of 1/16 thick chromoly, or even like 1/4 inch chromoly plate, if it was the 1/16 I would have to make internal rails, if it was 1/4 I would mill the rails,

 

either way, make it in three seperate chunks, bolt it down to a set of trunions and weld them together. 

 

other thoughts included a really long receiver, and a much longer bolt carrier, for a long action caliber, up to and including a 50bmg or 12ga FH, either one with LOTS of R&D, but still fun. 

 

the longer bolt and bolt carrier would allow for a longer firing pin, allowing the trigger group to be back farther. 

 

thinking of complex recoil springs as well

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I got Titanium Sheet 6AL-4V - it seems i will need to hot or warm form this material as it will spring back a bit if cold formed.

You'll probably end up with some interesting colors when you do so. That titanium alloy anodizes very nicely with heat. It's very easy to get blues, golds and greens out of it with a carefully controlled propane torch. Even heat from the friction of machining it will anodize the surface.

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